high clearance

This might be a simple question but when checking out a new trail and "high clearance required" is stated what is "high clearance?" And similarly, where do you measure this clearance height at?

First of all welcome! There isn't a set number or anything along those lines. If its an XJ i would say 3 inch with 31's locked in the rear could get you through just about anything.

High clearance means basically truck or 4x4 height. Don't take your Toyota Corolla up there!

JWHIT67 said:

This might be a simple question but when checking out a new trail and "high clearance required" is stated what is "high clearance?" And similarly, where do you measure this clearance height at?

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depending on what the high clearance trail is will kinda give you a guess of what heights will make it. most forest service roads/trails say high clearance and a stock cherokee will more then likely make it through. if its an ORV (offroad vehicle park) and it says high clearance required. you are looking for at least 31's or larger tire size.

and for measuring your clearance height. measure to the lowest point on your vehicle. usually the differential pumpkins. you can have a 6 inch lift but if you only have 27 inch tires your not gonna have great clearance. yours tires are the ones that limit your height clearance (as well as other mods{diff grinding...})

but thats the basics. i'm sure someone will correct me to more extent.

I currently have 98 xj (just bought less than a month ago) and is has no lift and 30 tires on 15 rims. It measures 8.5 inches to the front diff. Is this reasonable? I am trying to prioritize upgrades and thinking power/engine upgrades first then suspension. Don't have lockers and think this might be a good early upgrade but so many different paths to take.

JWHIT67 said:

I currently have 98 xj (just bought less than a month ago) and is has no lift and 30 tires on 15 rims. It measures 8.5 inches to the front diff. Is this reasonable? I am trying to prioritize upgrades and thinking power/engine upgrades first then suspension. Don't have lockers and think this might be a good early upgrade but so many different paths to take.

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throw a lock right in there. 250 bucks and you'll be really surprised where you xj will go.

uh...what engine upgrades?

if you mean intake or some b.s. like that, budget for lift first then engine stuff. it's not like "upgrades" help a 4.0 unless we're talking a stroker.

best "upgrade" (in my book and possibly that of others) to a rig would be this order;
lift
tires/rims
gearing to fit them tires/rims
seperate tranny cooler (with an auto trans)
then beefier bumpers/skids/rock rails.

and then I would consider a cold air intake or high performance plugs or stuff like that. I don't personally feel that re-camming a 4.0 is worth it since they already have balls and a cam is really only in my spectrum of needs when putting a stroker kit in it.

musting 5.0 injectors are pretty nice though. not that they offer much advantage over stock except worse gas mileage, but there's at least some power gain.

oh, lockers go with the gearing

Have 4.0 auto and engine upgrades throttle body boring and spacer, high flow air intake, ingintion coil, and headers. Was looking at 5- 6 inch lift but this won't be necessary until I need to replace my 30" wheels with larger. Is upgrading to a locking diff a time consuming project (also my drive to work vehicle) and should i do both axles at the same time?

JWHIT67 said:

Have 4.0 auto and engine upgrades throttle body boring and spacer, high flow air intake, ingintion coil, and headers. Was looking at 5- 6 inch lift but this won't be necessary until I need to replace my 30" wheels with larger. Is upgrading to a locking diff a time consuming project (also my drive to work vehicle) and should i do both axles at the same time?

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If your changing the gears i would lock it front and rear. if your lifting it and adding bigger tires i'd hold on off the lockers tho.

JWHIT67 said:

Have 4.0 auto and engine upgrades throttle body boring and spacer, high flow air intake, ingintion coil, and headers. Was looking at 5- 6 inch lift but this won't be necessary until I need to replace my 30" wheels with larger. Is upgrading to a locking diff a time consuming project (also my drive to work vehicle) and should i do both axles at the same time?

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The 4.0 is about as good as it can get straight stock. Go with skids and recovery points next. I dunno what type of wheelin you do, but you probably won't need a locker for w/e it is you do.

throttle body spacers don't do anything. there is no scientific proof that they're better, just a "hey, buy my product, it will make it better" type of deal.

waste of money.

my personal opinion

1) front/rear STRONG recovery points or bumpers with recovery points. whether you are stock or lifted, you will still get stuck at some time. and it sucks when there is no place to hook up to when somebody tries to pull you out.

2) tires

3)then depending on what kind of wheeling you do, i would call it a tie between skid plates and lockers. lockers will allow even a "smaller" rig to go amazingly far, but a "smaller" rig is also more likely to hit the oil pan, tranny pan, transfer case sooner.

now if you do go that route, then i would probably go with lunchbox lockers, so you don't waste money on installing a full carrier locker and then have to buy a new one when you decide to go with much bigger tires and a re-grear.

now when the time for the re-gear comes, then you can either continue to use the lunchbox lockers, or upgrade to full carrier lockers and have them installed as part of the re-gear and essentially save some money since you'll end up only paying for the re-gear and not the locker install.

you need a locker bad...

Edit: NO Wait! You need a heavier foot!

JWHIT67 said:

I currently have 30" tires which for the stuff I am doing should be enough (for now...don't tell my wife.) I do live in colorado and we occassionaly see snow here and I was on a trail the other day(moody hill) and had to back down (oh the shame...) because of what must have been slippage. I know the back left tire was spinning in loose wet soil/small rocks but I am unsure about the front right ( I was alone...I know never swim alone...) but I am looking at the front left and thinking why is this not wheel not pulling up this rock it was only about 4 - 6" straight up but still should be no big deal right. So I figure it is either my 4 wheel drive not working or slipping and no lockers. Didn't air down since no way to air up when done. Didn't try 4h but I also admit I am very new to off road and it was probably all lack of experience. Any thoughts?

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Wheel within your comfort zone. If you don't feel comfortable taking a certain obstacle, don't take it. Don't let anyone pressure you into something you feel uneasy about.

What kind of tires do you have?

You should start off with some solid front and rear recovery points: front towhooks/hitch and rear receiver hitch w/ a dring. I gained a bit of confidence after I got mine. Kinda like piece of mind for IF you get stuck. A tow strap (20k) is always pretty helpful.

Skids are next: t-case, gas tank, and diff protection are all pretty vital, especially if you don't have any lift. Maybe some rock rails.

That should get you a solid foundation. Once you get some protection, you'll gain loads of confidence knowing that you got some armor underneath your XJ. Buildup from there. Goodluck!

EDIT: Oh yeah, what were you in when you tried to take the hill? Try 4hi, play around with it a little. XJ's a very capable with what they got stock. Also, you can get a cheap little air compressor from autozone, harbor freight or costco to air up when you get done wheeling.