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TransGo kit question

josh9mile

NAXJA Forum User
Location
spokane
Just got my Rock shifter and rail shifter installed. Now I'm going to be installing the TransGo kit. Depending on the size of a few holes I need to enlarge, it can make the shifts feel like a truck, or a hotrod. But I'm not really sure what the difference would be. I'm guessing it has something to do with the firmness of the shifts. How did you guys set them up?
 
My first question is what year? I've got mine tore back down tonight from the installation of a 340-HD2 kit last weekend. No 1st or Reverse !!!!!!!!!!!

And I'm not finding the problem!
 
First off, did you order up the valve body gasket kit? If you haven't already STOP and get that on order.

The original trans in the jeep was shifting a little sluggish at 230k so I figured why not toss a transgo shift kit in it. In taking it apart all of the wiring was crunchy and crispy from being beaten on for many many many miles without a real trans cooler. I said the hell with it and did the full race car setup on the drilling on the separator plate (Increases shift speed) and with the replacement of the accumulator springs (Controls harshness of shifts). In doing this at WOT it was slam the 1-2 so hard it would bark a set of 33" tires. While cool, this got old over time and within a few hundred miles it would pickup 1st gear between the 3-4 shift, which was interesting and eventually when it would go to lock the torque converter it would also blip 1st gear. I attributed it to the solenoids not being able to hold the higher line pressure, but when I dropped the trans pan it was full of metal and clutch material. I filled it back up with clean fluid and the trans no longer looked for 1st between gears anymore, but I needed a replacement.

Hunting around I scored a unknown possibly blown trans for $50, and upon dropping the pan, the fluid was clean and it wasn't burnt. So I figured why not give it a try. This time I did the hot rod on the 1-2 hole on the separator plate and the full race on the 2-3 hole. Pretty much I made them the same size. I changed the spring in the pressure regulator and did the other valve body mods minus the 1 gear hold shift valve. I also left the accumulator springs factory. This has given me nice crisp shifts without slamming gears and trying to rip the tread off of the tires and at light throttle it shifts pretty close to stock.

RCP Phx
Do you have other gears, just no 1st and reverse? Have to checked the fluid level? Maybe add another quart?
 
So after reading some of that thread, if I'm using a rail shifter and if I tighten the TV cable, it kind of makes the kit pointless, right?
 
So after reading some of that thread, if I'm using a rail shifter and if I tighten the TV cable, it kind of makes the kit pointless, right?

No, even if you tighten the TV cable it will only raise the line pressure at light/part throttle and will max it out before you his WOT, and even then your line pressure will be lower than what the kit will run. Also it will still shift at the same speed, where the kit will speed up the shifts by applying more fluid to the apply clutches.
 
No, even if you tighten the TV cable it will only raise the line pressure at light/part throttle and will max it out before you his WOT, and even then your line pressure will be lower than what the kit will run. Also it will still shift at the same speed, where the kit will speed up the shifts by applying more fluid to the apply clutches.

Agreed. And I have all hot rod shifts on mine. Yea it shifts hard. Pretty much instant shifts. If you dd it or worry about it being too hard start with the truck shifts.
 
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