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JK D44

techno1154

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Location
In the islands
I am putting together all the pieces to put the Rubicon D44 under the XJ. I think I have identified a source for all the pieces I will need except the drag link.

My XJ is my DD so I do not plan to get outrageous with the build. I do need reliable parts though. Those who have done this before, From were do you source the drag link?
 
You're probably going to have to make one since it's a non-standard length. Miiiiight be able to use a stock JK, but don't know if there's enough adjustability to compensate for the likely difference in frame width.
 
I am putting together all the pieces to put the Rubicon D44 under the XJ. I think I have identified a source for all the pieces I will need except the drag link.

My XJ is my DD so I do not plan to get outrageous with the build. I do need reliable parts though. Those who have done this before, From were do you source the drag link?

Ruffstuff sells a kit to make one, I have two XJ's with JK axles and I used there kit to build both.
 
If you cannot build one you can measure the length and contact shops like cavfab, stinky fab, busted knuckle, etc to have them build and mail you one

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Ruffstuff sells a kit to make one, I have two XJ's with JK axles and I used there kit to build both.

Do you have a part number or description of the kit?

If you cannot build one you can measure the length and contact shops like cavfab, stinky fab, busted knuckle, etc. to have them build and mail you one

Actually, StinkyFab do not have one. If I know the approximate length I could buy a threaded tube and custom fit it.

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Adding another question to this tread,...

I decide not to gusset the diff. Would there be benefits from inner sleeves,...with 31 inch tires and only very mild off-road?

The D30 on there now were/are fitted with 31 and sometimes 32 tires for more 200,000 miles with no problem at all. I am leaning towards not doing it, but if some strengthening is necessary, now is the time to do it during the re-gear process.
 
Depends on how you drive it, but I wouldn't get to concerned at least until I went with 33+ tires.
 
So the jk housing is more likely to bend than the xj housing.... Bare with me please...

Jk housings are the same material, same od, and same thickness, but they are 5 inches wider. This adds leverage from the spring bucket out to the inner c. Think of how jk springs sit wider on the axle housing compatibly for a visual.

Imo doing this swap without a minimum of inner sleeves is a no go. I would absolutely truss this axle... Protect your investment...

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I see quite a bit of bent and broken JK44’s in my line of work. Even had one in a while back that broke the tube on the road and had never been wheeled. That being said, it’s best to beef it up as best as you can before you get it in the Jeep. It’ll be worth it in the long run.
 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^yupp I've seen them in the shop with bends on a stock daily (rare but happen)

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I watched a lady texting and driving in a newish jeep bounce of the concrete median barrier st 65mph and keep driving. I was like yup one owner never wheeled but my wife drives it.

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Bahahahaha yes!
My mother in law advertises her old cars as(women owned) she changes her oil about every 3 years 🤣

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OK. I will get a set of inner sleeves. The external gussets I have seen on line all require welding to the center section. That is a much more involved process that I am unable to do myself,... lack of experience and proper welding equipment.
 
Welding to the center isn't something that takes much skill... I've welded 3 with nothing more than flux core wire and preheating to 400 degrees....

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Welding to the center isn't something that takes much skill... I've welded 3 with nothing more than flux core wire and preheating to 400 degrees....

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I appreciate the confidence you have in me.

I am reluctant to invest in a torch, blanket and higher amperage welding plant for a single use. And besides, I have no experience welding to cast metal. Bad things could happen to poor welding.

Does anyone have/know the length of the drag link used on the JK front diff installed in an XJ?
 
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What machine are you currently welding with.
Building a drag link and trackbar is pretty straightforward though ill be on the other side of the fence when it comes to welding on the diff. Ive had quite a few welds go great with no cracking then soon as I think shit this is easy then I seem to get to watch one crack. Pretty sickening feeling.
I've had no cracks on outer Cs its the center that likes to school me. Thats even with pre and post heating. Cracks were with 035 flux core wire. 035 running solid wire might have been better since flux core is a harder more brittle filler material.

I shaved and plated my entire 8.25 axle diff bottom that went very well. Completly got rid the boat anchor lip and reshaped it to better slide over rocks. My 30 truss had a good size crack that I had to grind out and start over.

Good luck and yes you can do it.

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Post heat has been my savior. Takes me hours to complete one, but it's effective. Housing temps normally hit 600 after welding. Then I keep the torch going on the tubes and truss to help them match the temp of the center. It's not fast cooling that causes cracks, but rather the tubes chilling quickly and the heavy chunk staying hot due to the mass difference. The temperature differentiation happens right at the weld... This is why I post heat all the way down to 100 degrees.... Takes about 3 hours for the chunk to reach 100

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What machine are you currently welding with.
Building a drag link and trackbar is pretty straightforward though ill be on the other side of the fence when it comes to welding on the diff. Ive had quite a few welds go great with no cracking then soon as I think shit this is easy then I seem to get to watch one crack. Pretty sickening feeling.
I've had no cracks on outer Cs its the center that likes to school me. Thats even with pre and post heating. Cracks were with 035 flux core wire. 035 running solid wire might have been better since flux core is a harder more brittle filler material.

I shaved and plated my entire 8.25 axle diff bottom that went very well. Completly got rid the boat anchor lip and reshaped it to better slide over rocks. My 30 truss had a good size crack that I had to grind out and start over.

Good luck and yes you can do it.

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I have a Lincoln Procore 85 AMPS. I use the .030 and .035 flux core wire. I have no problem at all welding steel up .25 inch with that machine.

My first career right out of school was a mechanic with a construction company. I learned welding on those heavy construction equipment. Of course, it was stick back then.
 
Good then you got this, now you just have to do or decide if its worth paying someone to do.

To me stick and wire is the same. If a guy sux at one he likely sux at the other saying he likes mig better. Lol.

If your confident in yourself and the machine I say go for it. If you don't have a torch you can get one for map gas for not a ton of money.

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Yeah man you've got this. I used a 110volt machine on one and it worked... I am gonna go against even03 on wire choice though. I prefer flux core for this core and I believe he liked solid wire. To each their own.

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