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Trailer repairs sucks!!

RCP Phx

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Phoenix,Az
My new trailer is not even 2 yrs old and all the cabinet doors are falling off! Seems all they use anymore is MDF for the cabinets and the screws are all pulling out. Slow but easy fix is pulling every hinge screw out one at a time and doing the "toothpick" trick plus using Gorilla glue. I'll get it done (got a wedding to attend in a couple weeks) but it's tedious!
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You have my condolences. Trailer manufacturers have been building junk cabinetry for decades now. I want to completely gut and rebuild all the cabinets in my '88 Palomino hard-side pop-up. The wood they used is not even MDF. More like beaver barf. MDF is finer, probably termite puke.

Having spent a bit of time playing with stripped screws I have another method to offer you. It is more difficult than what you are already doing and probably just an idea to keep in the back of your mind should you find that toothpicks are gorilla glue don't hold up over time. What I like to do is get the gel epoxy that comes in a two syringe package. I have been doing this for long enough that I have a bunch of spent syringes available. I cut them apart (they are molded together as an assembly) so that I can use them separately, open them up and clean out the old epoxy remants, then mix a small fresh batch and transfer that into one of the cleaned up syringes. This will allow me to inject the epoxy into the screw hole. I pre-tear some pieces of blue painters tape (one for each screw hole) and then as soon as I inject the epoxy I cover the hole with a piece of tape. Let that cure (overnight is really optimal) and then use a Vix bit to drill fresh holes in the center of the repair. This method also works well on old door jambs where several iterations of strikers/strike plates have been installed over the years and the wood is all coming to splinters. A good chisel may be needed to clean up any excess epoxy so the hardware can properly seat. The gel epoxy is best for this because it is less prone to running out of the holes. If the situation can be repositioned so there is no issue with the epoxy running out of the holes then a regular, thin epoxy would be better because it would sink further into the wood fibers.
 
Probably the meth-head that installed them used an impact driver and stripped half of them out to begin with. And/or the manufacturer figured out they could save $1 per camper by using 3/8" long screws instead of 1/2"
 
Probably the meth-head that installed them used an impact driver and stripped half of them out to begin with. And/or the manufacturer figured out they could save $1 per camper by using 3/8" long screws instead of 1/2"

With MDF it doesn't make a difference, within the first week I found a loose screw and had my cabinet buddy friend install a longer screw(like 3/4-1") and it eventually came loose again. What the manufacturer didn't do was pre-drill the correct size hole to begin with so didn't just blow/bulge out when installing the screws!
 
Is there enough thickness to open up the holes and insert those plastic hollow wall anchors they sell for mounting in drywall?
 
Not realistically, they are only made from 5/8" MDF plus I've been down this road before with my other trailer and I prefer the glue and flat wood toothpicks (I push as many as I can get in there) method to last a long time. This is taking longer than I thought as I am adjusting/re-aligning as I go. I have all the passenger side storage doors done but still have a couple of the kitchen doors to do along with the medicine cabinet and vanity in the bathroom and 2 hutches in the bedroom.
 
This is up for sale in case anyone is looking for one. It's a loaded 2019 Forest River Stealth toy hauler.
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I want to get back to something that my XJ can tow.
 
This trailer has already sold!!! Got 27K for it and I paid 29.5K for it 2 years ago.
 
Every one!
 
Just picked up this Bushwhacker camping trailer about 3 weeks ago. Had it out once so far. Tows pretty well behind the XJ.

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Way to small, I'm thinking about a 21-23ft right now.
 
Way to small, I'm thinking about a 21-23ft right now.

To tow with the XJ?

I have a 20' that I tow with my XJ in it, but I certainly wouldn't want to tow it with the XJ.

Congrats on the sale of the toybox though. Good job on the minimal depreciation.
 
I figure I'm good to at least 5000lbs because the towing capacity of a ZJ or a WJ is 5000-6200 and I have WJ/KJ disc brakes plus 325hp/400ft-lbs torque with my stroker motor.
 
To tow with the XJ?

I have a 20' that I tow with my XJ in it, but I certainly wouldn't want to tow it with the XJ.

Congrats on the sale of the toybox though. Good job on the minimal depreciation.

What kind of 20’ trailer do you have that carries an XJ? The bumper-pull-toyhauler-that-fits-Jeeps market seems quite limited, based on either weight ratings, cargo dimensions, or both.
 
Enclosed 20' car hauler.

Not a camping trailer, though we have used it in that capacity. I have E-track down the interior sides and set up bunks on brackets once the Jeep is out.

Too much lift and the Jeep might have clearance issues with the door, but plenty of width and length. Trailer has a pair of 5K axles so capacity is no problem.
 
I'm driving up to Kingman tomorrow to look at a 22' Surveyor that I really like. It weighs in at 4700lbs with dual axles and brakes. He's asking 15k for it.
 
That sure sounds like a lot to tow with an XJ.

What is your rear axle?
 
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