Rusty's Long Arm Rattle

I have a Rusty's 6.5" long arm kit and am have a clunk noise from the passenger side long arm. Rusty send me a new bushing, he felt it was wore, but no luck. I think the noise is the long threaded rod used for adjustment being sloppy. Help anyone??

Well, I didn't have the long arms, just the regular length adjustables. Do the long arms have the same large acme thread with no lock nut? If so, yep that's definitely slop in the threads. I kept mine well greased and they were really clunky after 1.5 yr. I wouldn't recommend them to anyone unless you're going to adjust them to length and then weld them.

After that glowing review, anyone want my adjustable lowers? (-: Like I said, they'd be fine if you adjusted em to length, and then just weld em up tight.

Jer

I think this is a common problem with the acme style threads, try to keep them greased up , but I don't think there is allot you can do to solve it other than get different arms or cut them replace the threaded ends.

Has anyone run into this same problem with any of Teraflex's arms? Long arms in particular?

If you just run them with no lock-nut wouldnt the threads wear after a while and get sloppy anyways?

Have the same problem out of my Tera Flex short arms upper and lower, IF you just set them and weld them be prepared to also reweld either your axle or your body control arm mounts, If they are fixed they will not flex, thats why there is no Locknut and no welding. If you want the answer even though i love my tera arms...Get a different brand they are a maintance hassle.

Tera replaced my uppers with prototype arms that are not in production yet. They no longer pivot in the center like before. They now have a GIANT flex joint on the frame mount side of the arm. I guess they are a version of their TJ "builder's" arms. There is no way you can break these and they are rebuildable. They flex like crazy, and no clunk.

Now my long arms are starting to clunk. They said the lower TJ long arms will work, so that's my next step. I'll post pics when I get them installed.

Oh ya, I'm running 6" of lift and their normal arms are only designed for 4". They are too short and the O-ring wont seat when adjusted out for 6". They neglected to inform me of this fact when I purchased the kit in the first place.

Why don't you just go down to your local fastener store and buy some acme jam nuts and call it done for $2? I'm not familiar with their links though. Are they supposed to be "twisty" style links where that threaded portion allows for articluation without binding? If that's the case, negate what I said or you can use the nuts and rely on solely on the bushing deflection during flex.

Is it a rattle or more of a clunk that you can feel in the floorboard?

From what I read (I run Rusty's Adj LCA's) the threads do allow articulation. If you use the jam nuts make sure to loosen them before going off road or the bushings will bind causing breakage. As far as the clunk, make sure to keep them FULL of grease. Mine only make noise when I haven't greased them in a while.

I know this is a very old thread, but I have the same issue. This XJ that I have aquired has a Rusty's long arm kit on it, and the passenger side long arm has one joint that has a rattle to it. I was just going to weld it to the tubing, and if/when the time came that I had to replace the bushing, cut it off, weld a new insert in for a johnny joint and call it a day? Why would it bind and cause breakage if I welded it or got a jam nut?