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renix fuel rail leak

87woody-atl

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Atl
as the title says i have a leak on my fuel rail where it connects to the hose(the section that is closest to the firewall) how should i go around fixing this?

FYI:, i have another thread on this sitre about my jeep bogging and surging when you give it gas, i think this might be my problem let me know what you think

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1043427
 
You need new o-rings in the quick connect fitting. Have you removed the fuel rail lately? You are supposed to change the o-rings everytime you remove the rail. The part can be found in the HELP section at NAPA or even AutoZone. 3/8" disco clip with nitrile o-rings. Goes in o-ring, spacer, o-ring. don't drive around with that thing leaking, fire, ka-boom, etc.
 
went to autozone to get a replacement hose, its still leaking, it seems its not getting a full seal, so im going to the junkyard tomorrow to look for a replacement. i think the aftermarket hose doesn't come with o-rings, kinda weird
 
and when you say, "Goes in o-ring, spacer, o-ring. don't drive around with that thing leaking, fire, ka-boom, etc."

"spacer" does that mean the clip thing?
 
Go to the dealer and get a "fuel connection renew kit." It has both O-rings, the Nylon spacer, and the Nylon clip that retains it all.

Theoretically, you replace that every single time you pull the fuel rail connection. However, that doesn't mean it won't just start leaking on its own as well (I suggest you get a spare to throw in the toolbox, so you're ahead of the game if/when this starts again. Yes, I know it's fifteen bucks - but it's still cheaper than an engine bay fire!)

To install:

- Remove fuel line by squeezing the ears on the retaining clip and pulling out. A pair of longnose pliers can help here.
- Using a small pick, remove the internal bits. You should get two rubber O-rings and a small Nylon ring as well. Check the end of the male part of the fitting - anything you find on there that isn't the Nylon retaining clip won't be in the female fitting, so you don't end up digging for something you won't find.
- Use a small flashlight and make sure the inside of the female portion of the fitting is clean and clear.
- Remove the renewal kit from the little bag and push it into the female fitting until you hear (or at least feel) it "click" into place.
- Squeeze the ears on the Nylon clip and remove the installation mandrel. The clip should stay in place (if it does not, no problem.)
- Remove the old Nylon clip from the male hose fitting. OK to be destructive.
- If the new clip came out of the female fitting, slip it onto the hose. Gently press it into place until it clicks over the tubing bead.
- Press the male fitting into the female fitting until it clicks into place.

Probably takes longer for me to tell it than it does for me to do it - it's really a simple job.
 
every jeep should have a fire-can, and hood pins ANYWAYS. THIS IS YOUR WARNING.

No pins yet (it's on my list...) but the fire can is a five-pound job that is mounted to the floorboard between the driver's seat and the doorsill. I haven't had to use one for myself, but it's come in handy for other people...
 
got the fuel leak fixed, but im still having the stuppering problem, that the original link describes.

idle is perfect, sounds great, no more knock, just still have the bogging and sputtering problem, im going to re-adjust the tps, and see if that fixes the problem, any other suggestions?
 
You could be one tooth off on the distributor; could be an issue with the o2 sensor, only about 60k miles on the Renix type; could be the TPS, try testing its output values with an analog voltmeter throughout its range; could be something that craps out under load--poor coil, poor ICM, plug wires, plugs.

Didn't look back at your other post, but have you confirmed fuel pressure?
 
It should go up to about 39 psi when you open up the throttle--there is a vacuum line attached to the FPR that keeps the off throttle pressure at 31 psi.

Unplug and block off the FPR vacuum line--what psi do you get?
 
ok so the psi i get when i unplug the vacuum line from the fpr is 40 psi.
side note: i can feel a vacuum on the vacuum line that goes to the fpr.

when i plug the vacuum line back into the fpr and give it some throttle, it goes up to 35 psi, and then the engine starts to break up... im guessing it would go to a higher psi if the engine wasn't "bogging/breaking up"
 
It is the absence of vacuum that causes the rise in PSI.

Ok, disconnect and plug the vacuum line, start the engine and check pressure at idle, should be 39 psi--then as you give it throttle is should REMAIN at 39 psi. If not, the FPR is leaking past, or the pump or something else is causing a restriction.
 
Ok. Pressure is good, could be a volume issue.

I guess I would look at the distributor for shaft wobble possible shorting of the synch sensor OR possibly one tooth off on the distributor, which is the much more common source of your problem.
 
so to check the distributor, i need to find tdc, and the rotor button should be on the distributor caps pin(marked as cylinder 1)

is that correct?
 
so to check the distributor, i need to find tdc, and the rotor button should be on the distributor caps pin(marked as cylinder 1)

is that correct?

I wouldn't worry about that, you have it pretty much located. I would just lift it up and drop it down one tooth in either direction--if it gets worse then go the other direction two teeth--back to starting plus one the other direction. Give that a shot and post up.

Also, cap off grab the distributor shaft and see if it wobbles side to side--a little up/down is Ok, but it shouldn't wobble side to side.
 
ok reporting back, zero side to side movement with cap off, and bolt with c-clip that goes into the block holding the distributor secure, tight.

ill try moving the the distributor teeth tomorrow, since its night here and 20 something degrees
 
In Atlanta?

What ever happened to the Sunny South?
 
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