• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Brake light came on then brake pedal became soft

109ace

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Fl
I have a '98 and out of no where my break light came on while driving. When I pulled off and tried to stop my pedal felt really soft, like when you are bleeding the break lines and I had to push the pedal all the way in for the jeep to stop. I was able to get it back home safely since I still had breaks but it was obvious that I had lost a bit of their power. I do no have ABS and there is still plenty of break fluid int he system. I also have not noticed any leaks. I was thinking that there is either a problem with my calipers or air in the system. I just finished a 1k road trip and everything was perfect until I just got back.
 
Last edited:
Re: Break light came on then break pedal became soft

It sounds like the prop valve saw a leak in the front or rear brake systems. You most likely have a leak. Pull the rear drums and see if a wheel cylinder is leaking.
 
Agree with Talyn, if the problem was with the ABS the ABS light would be on.

The soft pedal and brake light would indicate a loss of hydraulic integrity, Pascal's law raises its ugly head again.
 
Thanks for the info. One thing I should have been more specific on was that it is a non-ABS equipped jeep. I will check for leaks both front and back this weekend. I have another DD so I can take my time doing this thankfully.
 
Ok, I misread your original post on the ABS.

When you pull the drums, if there are no obvious signs of leakage, roll up the rubber cups on both ends of the wheel cylinders--any dampness is a leak and its replacement time.

Also, don't forget to take a peak up under the dash at the back of the MC/booster to check for a leak.
 
If your that far into the drums, might as well just replace the wheel cylinders anyway. They're $12 each, and I'm sure with low fluid level you'll be bleeding the brakes anyway. I suggest this because more than once I've seen a teardown of the drums, and 6 months later a wheel cylinder went. I'm not about just throwing money at a problem, but its worth it IMHO.
 
If your that far into the drums, might as well just replace the wheel cylinders anyway. They're $12 each, and I'm sure with low fluid level you'll be bleeding the brakes anyway. I suggest this because more than once I've seen a teardown of the drums, and 6 months later a wheel cylinder went. I'm not about just throwing money at a problem, but its worth it IMHO.

X100 - don't cheap out on your brakes, and if you are already into it adopt the "might-as-well" attitude.
 
I am going to take the hit and replace the wheel cylinders and re-due my rear breaks. The fronts need new pads anyway and why not work on the back too since there is a actual problem. Thanks for all the help. Hopefully this won't take too long to do.
 
Don't forget to crawl under the driver's side, and look along the inner 'frame rail', as you may have a leaking rear brake line. It bit me once on my '92, and the only thing positive that I can say about the old school two-reservoir master cylinders is that although the chamber feeding the leak will empty, the other one will not. Can't say the same of the '95 and up single plastic reservoir master cylinders. Also, make sure you look at all the rubber soft lines. The heat of where you live may have baked the life out of them.
 
Back
Top