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Hard Brake Lines ‘99

tuckholladay

NAXJA Forum User
Location
New Jersey
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Well my lines got delivered. I’ve been spraying my flare nut connections every so often when I remember for weeks. I bought flarenut wrenches. The very first one I tried to turn rounded right off...


All these lines come with brand new nuts. How bad can I **** something up if I get in there with vice grips? Do I need to keep my cool?

I’m going to go back out and try to find a better set of flare wrenches that aren’t from Harbor Freight. Any advice or good video links greatly appreciated.


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Vice grip those suckers right off, anything you are going to screw up will be replaced on the new lines. A neat trick is also to cut the old line off flush and use a 6 point socket. Heat also does wonders.
 
Vice grip those suckers right off, anything you are going to screw up will be replaced on the new lines. A neat trick is also to cut the old line off flush and use a 6 point socket. Heat also does wonders.


Ok thank you. Also I should be turning counter clockwise to loosen right? They aren’t reverse threaded or anything


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Heat from propane torch first, then vice grips.
 
Well I got the two lines that connect to the flexible lines. The long one shape got completely mangled getting it out. Do I need any special tool to bend the new long tube? Am I screwed if I don’t bend it back pretty close to shape?


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If it's any kind of a sharp bend then yes you should use a bender, you can "massage" soft shapes pretty easily.
 
Are you talking taking off the old lines or installing these? I installed this brand last summer. It was fairly easy. The main problem was getting the long rear line up to the master cylinder. It wasn't very difficult. The next would be the passenger side front. All in all, I like the kit. I used anther vendor's kit. It was about the same, except the passenger's front. I had to add bends. I'll use this kit again, on my next build. I warn people to check the hard line going to the rear. The stock one rusts bad, and you usually don't see it. Not fun when a brake line burst.
 
Are you talking taking off the old lines or installing these? I installed this brand last summer. It was fairly easy. The main problem was getting the long rear line up to the master cylinder. It wasn't very difficult. The next would be the passenger side front. All in all, I like the kit. I used anther vendor's kit. It was about the same, except the passenger's front. I had to add bends. I'll use this kit again, on my next build. I warn people to check the hard line going to the rear. The stock one rusts bad, and you usually don't see it. Not fun when a brake line burst.


I actually got the long line replaced by the shop like three years ago. I brought it in for them to check my work on my lift and they were like hey we should replace this break line before it bursts on you. So I just had them do that so I could pay them something.


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Are you talking taking off the old lines or installing these? I installed this brand last summer. It was fairly easy. The main problem was getting the long rear line up to the master cylinder. It wasn't very difficult. The next would be the passenger side front. All in all, I like the kit. I used anther vendor's kit. It was about the same, except the passenger's front. I had to add bends. I'll use this kit again, on my next build. I warn people to check the hard line going to the rear. The stock one rusts bad, and you usually don't see it. Not fun when a brake line burst.


I am taking off and installing. I got the two lines from the master cylinder to the front wheel wells done yesterday.

When you did it what was your criteria for retightening? I’ve read specific torque, which I don’t hone how I’m going to do, I’ve read put locktight and I’ve read just do it till you can’t see the threads anymore and you’ll be fine.
 
NO Loctite and torque in a regular fashion!
 
I am taking off and installing. I got the two lines from the master cylinder to the front wheel wells done yesterday.

When you did it what was your criteria for retightening? I’ve read specific torque, which I don’t hone how I’m going to do, I’ve read put locktight and I’ve read just do it till you can’t see the threads anymore and you’ll be fine.

I just cinched them up tight as I could get them. I remember missing one of them and had brake fluid leak a bit. I didn't check the FSM for torque specs. I'll have to look and see about retightening.
 
Ok so I am chugging along. I could still use some help.

I got all the old lines and nuts off without much incident and tested the bleeders which were good.

I am having a really hard time connecting the new longer rear line on the drum side. The threads look ok to me. Everything came off easily, not sure why.

The other thing is I am driving myself insane trying to fit the new master cylinder to passenger front line back in. Has anyone used the Inline Tube set? The line is in two parts with a connector in the middle. The whole thing seems too long. I’m pretty sure I have the half connected to the master cylinder in correctly but the other half seems too long or like I need to bend it a different way.


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Ok so I am chugging along. I could still use some help.

I got all the old lines and nuts off without much incident and tested the bleeders which were good.

I am having a really hard time connecting the new longer rear line on the drum side. The threads look ok to me. Everything came off easily, not sure why.

The other thing is I am driving myself insane trying to fit the new master cylinder to passenger front line back in. Has anyone used the Inline Tube set? The line is in two parts with a connector in the middle. The whole thing seems too long. I’m pretty sure I have the half connected to the master cylinder in correctly but the other half seems too long or like I need to bend it a different way.


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Yes, my last set was from Inline Tube. I think in MI. There is another set that is from OH. I did not have any issue with the Inline. On the other set, I had to add some bends on the drivers side. On the rear, I left the wheel cylinders a bit loose. Sometimes its hard to get the right angle to get the threads started. Sort of had that problem on the master cylinder lines.
 
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Does this look unsafe with the line away from the firewall going over the space where the oil filter is?

This is driving me nuts.


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