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  #1  
Old August 29th, 2020, 10:57
Gentlemen Jeep Gentlemen Jeep is offline
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Question Transmission swap fail

I have a 96 XJ that i swaped to 4x4, the transmission 30-40LE I used in the swap worded great till one of the lines blew apart. That trans is toast now, got another 96 trans thats a 30-43LE and after I swapped them the jeep wont start. Everything is hooked up, it makes one click when trying to start like the crank sensor isnt hooked up. Any ideas? Wrong trans? The crank sensor off the new one doesnt plug right in, its a oval plug vs the one on the jeep is square.
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Old August 29th, 2020, 12:27
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jeep ride jeep ride is online now
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Re: Transmission swap fail

My jeep xj has the aw4 transmission never heard of this 30 40 le ?
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Old August 29th, 2020, 12:30
Agreen Agreen is offline
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Re: Transmission swap fail

One click and doesn't crank? Are you sure it's not a dead battery?

Or if it is cranking (what's the click noise?) did you set the depth of the CPS?
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Old August 29th, 2020, 13:05
Gentlemen Jeep Gentlemen Jeep is offline
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Re: Transmission swap fail

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeep ride View Post
My jeep xj has the aw4 transmission never heard of this 30 40 le ?
Thats what the tag on it says
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  #5  
Old August 29th, 2020, 13:13
Unclewolverine Unclewolverine is offline
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Re: Transmission swap fail

Sounds like the converter slipped forward and now you git it bound up. Ive never heard of that trans either, what tag are you looking at? Should be an aw4
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Old August 29th, 2020, 16:25
RCP Phx RCP Phx is offline
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Re: Transmission swap fail

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeep ride View Post
My jeep xj has the aw4 transmission never heard of this 30 40 le ?
A 30-40 LE is the Toyota version of a AW4, but after all the research I did on my AW4 rebuild I'm not so sure about the compatibility of one.
https://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1158178
https://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1159116
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Old August 30th, 2020, 15:23
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Tim_MN Tim_MN is offline
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Re: Transmission swap fail

If the CPS plug does not match, it would be logical to suspect it is the wrong part. Either they gave you wrong part or somebody accidentally put the wrong part in the right box.


Clicking and not starting is usually a low voltage issue from:

• dirty, corroded, damaged, or loose battery terminal or wire connections
• internally corroded battery wires
• a short circuit or parasitic drain
• a failing battery
• a failing alternator
• leaving the lights on

Perform routine maintenance of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables or connectors and replace as needed. Copper wires should be copper color, not black or green. Battery terminals and battery wire connectors should bright silver, not dull gray/black and corroded. Do the same for the grounding wires from the starter to engine block, the ground wires at the coil, and the ground wires from the battery and engine to the Jeep's frame/body. You must remove, wire brush, and clean until shiny the cable/wire ends and whatever they bolt onto.

Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage, bad wire connections, or poor grounds.


Place your DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Multi-Meter) on the 20 volt scale. First check battery voltage by placing your multi-meter's positive lead on the battery's positive post ( the actual post, not the clamp ) and the negative lead on the negative post. You need a minimum of 12 volts to continue testing. Next, leave your meter connected and take a reading while the engine is cranking. Record this voltage reading. Now connect your positive lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter and the negative lead to the starter housing. Again, crank the engine and record the voltage reading. If the voltage reading at the starter is not within 1 volt of battery voltage then you have excessive voltage drop in the starter circuit.

Typical voltage drop maximums:
• starter circuit (including starter solenoid) = 0.60 volt
• battery post to battery terminal end = zero volts
• battery main cable (measured end to end) 0.20 volt
• starter solenoid = 0.20 volt
• battery negative post to alternator metal frame = 0.20 volt
• negative main cable to engine block = 0.20 volt
• negative battery post to starter metal frame = 0.30
• battery positive post to alternator b+stud = 0.5 volt with maximum charging load applied (all accessories turned on)


Have your helper turn the ignition key to START while you tap gently on the starter with a hammer. If the engine starts, you probably need a new starter.

Test the output at the alternator with your volts/ohms multi-meter. You should be measuring 13.8-14.4 volts. Have the battery, starter, and the alternator Load Tested for proper function in a test machine that applies a simulated work load. Handheld testers are inaccurate and will often pass faulty parts.

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