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Solving my 2000's heat soak issue

MrAnderson

NAXJA Forum User
OEM or Modified discussion? Both?
2000
4.0
Automatic
150k
Minor performance mods, no lift

So I've been running into this "heat soak" issue anytime I take the Heep out onto the dunes(I live 5mins from Pismo). I go out, have my fun and I stop at the gas station to air back up. When I fire her back up she sputters and wants to stall for a bit then resumes normal operation. Though research and help I've learned about the heat soak issue. I turn my hot Heep off, the fan turns off, engine "soaks" in its own heat an causes vapor lock which then leads to a misfire yada yada. Anyways, from what ive read its not harmful and as soon as the gas vapor blows through everything all good. well i'm not fond of this. AND! Last time I was out the engine actually died crawling up a hill. I had my suspicions as to why so I sat and sat for about 20mins till the engine cooled off (went from about 215ish to 210) and she fired right up like nothing ever happened. This was unacceptable.

Cool story eh? Anyways, so I'm wondering how others have gone about removing this issue? My Heep already had the little heat mat thingy that jeep put out as a fix so that didn't work. I've read of wrapping the #3 injector (id do the whole fuel rail) with golden heat tape stuff but most say its useless. My thoughts are a e-fan upgrade, better radiator and possibly some hood vents. Would all three make the jeep run cold though? Also I'm not sure how I could afford all three either haha. Been scoping the one from dirt bound but can't say I've really had the time to shop around (I got a blankie stuck in my rear hatch that takes up most of my time!!!1). But I'm just wondering if anyone has already gone thru this and knows the best way, or at least a better way. Oh and money's tight. Like self supporting college student with a minimum wage job tight.
Thanks,
Mike
 
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Hood vents help, they are cheap and easy. But I still get the heat soak sometimes. A fan timer will cure the problem for sure, whether with a full e-fan setup or just tied into the factory one.

Mine's had the #3 injector insulated for years, doesn't help a bit.
 
fill up with the car running....:flame:

I do it quite often.....I know I am not the only one :eeks1:
 
on Xjensons rig we did hood vents, and the factory heat wrap they recommend on all of the injectors. He has not had heat soak since we did this. He had it all the time beforehand.
 
I'm running the dirtbound triple fan kit and I insulated the injectors and fuel line that holds the injectors. so far so good. we"ll see how it does this summer.
 
The Dirtbound triple fan kit is a pretty easy kit to install. Instructions are not very detailed but its seIf explanatory. It could be updated and have better detailed instructions. I have it set up to run a few minutes after the Jeep is turned off to help with cooling. The one problem with the Dirtbound kit is you can't run the A/C until temps get hot enough. Flex a lite makes a very nice triple fan radiator kit, but its pretty expensive. If a cooling system is functioning properly you should not have any issues, but that 4.0L has the dreaded heat soak. Jeep came out with a Heat shied to fix the problem, but didn't seem to help all the time. So all you can do is Wrap the injectors with high temp insulation and see if that works. It helped me even before I had the Dirtbound kit.
 
Had the same heat soak issues on my '01....

Installing hood vents did the trick for me and I also think they look good! Since installing the hood vents I have added a set of new 4-hole fuel injectors and Dirtbounds Triple Electric fan kit. We'll see how it pans out this Summer.

However... after installing the hood vents the vapor lock symptoms disappeared. I also do not have any kind of heat shielding on my injectors or under my intake manifold.
 
I used to have the same issue.

I fixed it by wrapping the whole fuel rail in exhaust wrap, each injector with the same wrap, then I wrapped all of that tight with heat blocking foil tape. That, along with Lebaron hood vents, and a fan switch for my electric fan, and I can greatly reduce the heat soak issue.

When I stop while wheeling, (like a month ago when I was hammering it up deep snow, and having to stop and un-stuck myself every 500 feet or so), I run the efan, if it isn't kicked on already. If I decide to turn the engine off for a few minutes, I always turn the fan on, that way the hot air can be pushed out, and through the vents.

Hood vents
image4_zps128def9b.jpg


Efan switch (bottom on, top is for my lights)- Wired to a simple relay
image5_zps09035f91.jpg


Exhaust wrap, foil tape on the rail
image6_zpsb9d5d7e2.jpg


Wrap on the injectors (they're 4 hole 05 caravan injectors, thats why they're green haha)
image7_zps464d7fab.jpg


The efan does a great job to push cooler air over the manifolds and the fuel system= less boiling.
image8_zpseb1d5642.jpg


And here's the wrap, it's the thinner stuff, only about an inch wide I think, from Oreilly.
image9_zps98ae9a7d.jpg
 
Re: Re: Solving my 2000's heat soak issue

Ummmm yea, did ya catch the part about a tight budget?

So start with hood vents, I've even seen guys just drill 2" holes in a wedge pattern on both sides of the center support, but vents can be had super cheap at the junk yard or on eBay. If that doesn't solve it throw the switch on the e-fan, probably cost you $10 or so. Then if that still doesn't solve it wrap the rails and injectors. Even if you do all 3 you're out maybe $75?
 
Interesting, what did use to wrap the injectors? Link to pics? The fan set-ups like $300 so a cheaper option would be nice

Just go to the dealer and ask for the stuff , its a service bulletin thing they have. i think its like 20$. you can probably also buy some heat tape on summit as well
 
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