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My Very Own Build Thread!

Darky

NAXJA Forum User
Location
29 Palms, CA
Sort of:D

I'm starting this just to kinda show off my Jeep a little. It ain't much yet, but it tries real hard.
It's a 1996 Sport 4dr with the 4.0 and AW4. Bought it in 04, me and my then fiancees first major purchase together. We both loved it, her for the four doors (she had a Nissan pickup and I had a Samurai) being good to start a family with, me for the solid axles and the fact that I'd been drooling over them since I was but a lad. It had a sketchy NSS and the dealer was desperate to unload it. I found NAXJA, you guys told me it was an easy fix, I bought the Jeep, $4500.

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Ain't it purdy?:D All it had was some black steel wheels and a nice dent at the back of the front fender flare (see it?) from when the tread separated on the original tires.
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Temporarily flareless after getting the BB installed, posing with the wife.
 
Looks good man.. Now you just need to get that back on the road!
 
Being a Jeep, further mods weren't far behind. The supposedly new water pump (the original went bad on the test drive) installed by the dealer died about 7-8 months later. I installed a new one.
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My next move was some 30" MTs scored off a friend I met on here. These tires allowed to go yank my buddy's Ranger out of creek on base.
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The aftermath
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I got the fog lights from the same friend. Good thing I had em that night, Pendleton can get to be pretty foggy at night.
 
Too bad I didn't have the MTs here
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Might've made it another 20 feet to at least get further than my SSgt's TJ...
In 2007 I discovered the joys of a locked rear diff and disco'd sway bars. Me and my brother welded the rear diff up and took off the sway bars. We also installed the LeBaron hood vents before going to Truckhaven that year.
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Too bad I didn't have proper bumpstopping at that point. Note the crumpled front fender...Too much flex! My solution was to cut off the metal got in the way.
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Plenty of room now!
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EDIT: These last two also include RE 4.5" coils instead of the front BB.
 
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Now I have reached a point where I really need to start putting some thought into this. I got a little too anxious for the lift and bought a setup that doesn't work for my needs. I've got approximately 5.5-6" of lift all around. Running RE 4.5" coils and 3.5" leafs with 1.5" spacers in the front and shackles in the back. I also have a DPG transfer case skid. The kit was based around the RE 3.5" but I wanted to be a little higher. I didn't pay enough attn to what was in it or I wouldn't have bought it on account of my plans to be around 5-6" and the kit not having UCAs.

I've been looking between the Rock Krawler 3 link upgrade and the T&T Y-link. I know T&T comes with its own belly skid whereas the RK doesn't. My question comes in as would it be a bad idea to do the T&T and have to drill more holes in order to bolt up their belly skid? Should I go with RK since I wouldn't have to remove the skid?

Also, my steering setup now has a ZJ tierod and JKS trackbar, Any good ideas on drag link? Also, at just under 6", would a drop pitman be a good idea? My guy I had do the alignment after the lift said no, bad idea, it'll pull it steering out of whack sooner.
 
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Looks good! I'd go with the RK kit and keep the DPG skid. That would be a solid set up and much cheaper$. (I'm not recommending that on price alone either).
You do not need a drop pitman arm. I can't help on the drag link but if it were me I'd wait and upgrade the whole setup. Sell your zj Tie rod and save up for currie or JCR.
 
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I had found the RK 3-link at discountjeepparts.com for $500ish a couple months back, so I was set on that. But now it's gone from their site and the cheapest I can find it is for $750. Their site has it for $800. T&T is $900. My only concern, again, there would be drilling more holes. I'll probably do the 3 link. RE was up there, but they want $1000! :eek:
 
Wow! If that's true than RK raised their prices big time. It's not a problem drilling more holes for the T&T setup. (a swiss cheese "frame" isn't good but I doubt it's that bad). I think you're asking because you'll have holes left over from the DPG skid. I wouldn't worry about it, especially if you install those stiffeners.


I'd look around for a different vendor for the RK kit. I'm running the clayton kit. My only complaint is having to fab up a belly skid.
 
Wow! If that's true than RK raised their prices big time. It's not a problem drilling more holes for the T&T setup. (a swiss cheese "frame" isn't good but I doubt it's that bad). I think you're asking because you'll have holes left over from the DPG skid. I wouldn't worry about it, especially if you install those stiffeners.


I'd look around for a different vendor for the RK kit. I'm running the clayton kit. My only complaint is having to fab up a belly skid.

RK raised their prices a while back. They should drop down with the economy soon though since no one is going to be buying them, or at least i hope haha. Im getting a sweet deal on RK brackets (not the arms, ill build those) for $179, dont ask me how :) :) :)
 
Excellent! If it's still this price when I get my money, the problem is solved! :D
Got my money, ordered the RK kit from DesertFab. Still $600 when I ordered it. Hopefully it'll be here in time to install for SoCal Fest, May 2-3. Fairly certain I'll be ordering JCROffroad's #3 "The Hotness" soon for bumpers and sliders. Might do their OTK steering or possibly Genuine Bulletproof looks pretty good too, similar price as well.
 
Just ordered the JCR Value pack #3 - Prerunner winch bumper, Stage 2 sliders, and Stage 3 Rear bumper with tire carrier, backup lights and D-rings. :D

Any info/direction between JCR or Genuine Bulletproof steering? I'm planning on going Over the Knuckle.
 
I run the JCR OTK and I have no real complaints. I want to do the WJ knuckle swap and run the drag link up top. I guess it's like a high steer set up.
 
Thread from when I first got involved in modding my XJ...oh how my plans have changed as I've learned more...:D
 
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