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Tube for boxed in rockers

Red94XJ

Red94XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Kansas City
I have been looking around the site for some time now and have not found the answer to my question. I am going to be boxing in my rocker panels this weekend. I am going to use 2x4x3/16" rec. tube for the rocker like 4x4trailhunters.com. I would also like to add some tube to keep the doors and handles off the rocks and trees. I was thinking of doing somthing like this:

sliders.jpg


So now for the question: I would like to use 1-1/4" x .120 or .188 DOM tube for the "sliders". Is that size of tube large enough to support the abuse of offroading? I also wonder about the method of attaching the tube to the 2x4. Would welding the tube to the face be strong enough or should I cut the 2x4 and have the tube go into it for a better shear strength? I don't know if that is clear, but I just can't figure out a better way to say it. Any and all info would be greatly appriciated.

Thanks, John
 
Iwould go with .188 wall and you might as well make the tube go through it although i dont think you would have a problem if you dont. Are you going to tie it into the pinch seam to?
 
I was planning on using 2x2 in that area (I think that is what you are showing in that pic). Would you recommend using a single full-length piece or would numerous smaller (4-6 inch long) pieces be enough?
 
I built some out of 3X2 that tie into the pinch seam and the frame. I added 1 3/4 .120 wall just like your pic. I just bent mine up and welded it to the face of the 3X2. Mines holding up fine, you can use the hi lift jack to lift the side of the truck up with it and I've pivoted on a rock on the tube a couple of times with no damage but some gouges in the tube.

Long as you can weld there should be no problems.
 
had mine done similar, not sure the tube size but it's probably around .120. I had a bout a 1/8" gap between the tube and box and they welded supports every ~8". Well I've noticed that I have pushed the tube in almost touching the box where there is no supports. It's not dented though.
 
structure.jpg


that's completely unnecessary. use 4 pieces of 2x2x13ga wall at 6" for your spacers. Be sure to place them under your pillars. Anymore than that, you're just adding unnecessary weight to something that's basically hanging from sheet metal. Normally, I'm all about overkill but this was the one place where I tried to keep the weight down.

Randy's correct.. you absolutely have to tie them into your framerails. I've heard of people bashing them into the body as well as seeing some fall out because they weren't tied in or just really shotty welding.

Mine tie in to the framerails via 3 "kickers" on each side as well as having my cage come through the floor into those kickers. They're going nowhere... the only way they're coming out is if I bash my cage through the roof or the cage falls through the floor and tears the stiffeners off the framerail. :)

__________________
matthew - 96 xj
formatt fabrications
www.formattfab.com
 
I agree that the 'space taker uppers' aren't necessary. Mine are welded to the bottoms of the door frames, below the pillars...and to the pinch seam. Nothing inside, I just cut square ends into my wheel wells to set the rockers to the right angle, then welded them there as well. Frame rail tie-in wasn't even necessary. My buddy and I have been wheeling ours for years this way and they're plenty strong.

If you want to save the round tubing on the outside, get ahold of some 3x6 .188 wall rectangular tubing. Make them one piece all the way down. I personally like the round tubing idea, but it wasn't feasible to me at the time, so I didn't do it. My 3x6 rockers are WAY overkill at .250 wall, but it was 'scrap' and not new steel, so I got a smoking deal on it. :) They're so thick that if I wanted to make them into air tanks I need only drill a hole and tap it to put a fitting in. I'm not fond of square pressure vessels though, so you won't find me doing that. :D
 
Thanks for the input! I post up some pics when this gets done. As for the tube, I honestly really like the look and considering the cost difference between these and aftermarket sliders (not to mention my rusty, flatened rockers) I figure why not have 'em the way I want. Again, thanks.
 
Rather than building the complicated tube to hang off the original Square stock, why not just fab it up pushed out further from the "framerails"? You wouldn't be adding the weight. You should have an easier build.

Also, Beware of attatching to the pinch strip in the rust belt.
I attatched mine that way based off of some Olympic sliders I purchased years ago.. The pinch rotted a bit, and as I came down on it hard, time after time.. it eventually pushed itself up into the cavity above it in the six places I anchored to the pinch.

Could ther be a better way?:read:
 
formatt said:
yes.. please read above.

Randy and myself both stated better ways to mount them. Just welding them to your pinchseam without attaching to the frame or some sort of cage isn't enough.
Click to expand...
-eh, right dude..
In addition to supports on the unibody's "frame" I attatched to the pinch seam in 6 locations.. it was at those points that I managed to push it up into the hollow area. I think that replacing the original with square stock is excessivly adding weight..

ahem.

Now then.. is there a better way?
 
-also, I am a firm believer that welding to a cherokee is a bad idea.. Yes I have done it... but there just isn't enough material anywhere to weld securely to.
It should be bolted to unless it's not practical.
 
eh. you'd be hard pressed to find too many other people on this board that wheel their rigs harder than IntrepidXJ (randy)... that's not an opinion. If they're holding up on his rig, after the beating he gives it, they'll hold up on 95% of the rest of the rigs around here.

Brian, i'd look into a different way of attaching to the framerail than what you're using. The pinchseam welds aren't going to do much other than keep it from shifting around under you. I know there are guys doing it this way but IMHO, it's only a matter of time before their setup's end up the same way yours did.

If you don't mind and for the sake of being helpful to others, please post some pics of your framerail attachments so others can see what not to do.
 
IntrepidXJ said:
here's how i did mine:

http://www.myxj.net/tech/rockers/

yes they are welded to the pinch seam and the sheet metal above, but honestly, i don;t feel welding them to the pinch seam added much......

they have taken quite a few hard hits and are still holding up...
Click to expand...
Nice website-
You attatched to a 'cage.. big difference if you don't have one.
I also stuck my sliders out further to avail myself of a step If I need to walk around the truck in the mud, and to help protect the doors from trees.
(that was back before I realized that trees don't always grow up straight)
-bc
 
formatt said:
If you don't mind and for the sake of being helpful to others, please post some pics of your framerail attachments so others can see what not to do.
Click to expand...

They are tapped and bolted in to the joint where the sheet metal overlaps, and in back to just in front of the rear spring perches, gusseted onto that metal as well. I can remove them in about an hour if needed.

Its just not enough to take the hard hits over and over....
Maybe I'm just asking too much (see avatar).
 
Brian Carpenter said:
-also, I am a firm believer that welding to a cherokee is a bad idea.. Yes I have done it... but there just isn't enough material anywhere to weld securely to.
It should be bolted to unless it's not practical.
Click to expand...

:confused1
 
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