Please Help, Fuel Issues

Okay, the problem...at an about 1800 rpm, almost wants to quit, not getting fuel/spark...kind of a close to back-fire feeling.

Now I have replaced in the last two weeks, fuel pump, cap/rotor, plugs/wires, cleaned the TPS, new CPS, New O2 sensor, hooked the coolant temp sensor back up (don't know why it was unhooked), replaced the MAP with a working good one, new fuel filter. No way to pumping the EGR, doesn't seem to have a diaphram to pump (may be wrong???). I have taken the fuel pump out again to make sure the float is correct it is. Now I'm thinking to take it back out to make sure it's sitting right (again). Also checked the vacuum lines and jumped the fuel ballister.

Any other ideas, I'm running out of hope. Thanks Juice

I had a bucking at around 2000 RPM, about half of it disappeared when I re indexed the distributor. It went completely away when I replaced the O2 sensor. Worked for me, but it could be something entirely different on yours.
I´d probably unhook the ECU and check for resistance in the O2 to ECU wires, the ground and the O2 heater circuit (don't forget the relay). First choice would be something in the O2 circuit, wiring or connectors. Second choice a loose timing chain, that can be somewhat corrected by, re indexing the distributor.
Scrub out the O2 sensor plug really well, with a very small brush and some contact cleaner. Check the O2 sensor ground. Check the harness from the front end of the fuel rail all the way down, look closely, it rubs, cooks and melts, in hard to see places.
Third choice would probably be a fuel pressure and flow test.
I´m guessing something is leaning out the motor, which often shows up as a bucking at mid range and a motor that craps out well below red line.
Could also be a cross fire (though less likely with your new cap and spark plug cables), that is most noticeable at low vacuum (mid RPM, throttle mostly open). Ignition breakdown, usually gets worse the higher the RPM. And often makes for a rough idle. Maybe separate the coil from the module and check the contacts. Doesn't sound like weak spark, but checking sure can't hurt much. Probably wouldn't hurt to have a look at your new plug wires and such, in the dark and see if they hold spark (just to make sure). I've been bit in the rear before, trusting new parts to be good parts.
Mid range, seems to be one of the more sensitive RPM ranges of the Renix.
There is also a TSB, about a flat spot in the TPS at around 1/3 rd throttle. Which could be tested with a an analogue ohm meter. Test both halves of the TPS, if you have the auto trans.
I isolated the C-101 connector which is a prime spot to pick up extra resistance (disconnected the sensors and ECU) and checked mine for resistance in most of the sensor circuits, by doing an ohm test from the ends of the wires (ECU end and sensor end, THROUGH the C-101 connector). If you have a good schematic you can jump the pins at the ECU and test each sensor circuit for resistance at the sensor in a loop. You can also test the ground wire for each sensor to battery ground on the low voltage scale, resistance in the ground circuit will show up as volts, with the key on.
I appreciate what you are going through, took me forever to figure out what was causing my problems. But I don't really feel to bad about it, the local Jeep dealer gave up trying to figure it out and sold it to me.

How did you clean the TPS? Any solvents or water anywhere close to the TPS can be lethal.