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Oil filter location change?

asatxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Grant, Michigan
I'm getting tired of making a mess trying to the the oil filter removed. My '91 motor had the oil filter vertical right by the distributor. When I swapped in a '97 it was horizontal so I left it. Is there any reason why I can't remount it vertical like my old motor??
 
I've been there, they talk about changing to the hroizontal filter but not going vertical. Unless I missed something.
 
asatxj said:
I've been there, they talk about changing to the hroizontal filter but not going vertical. Unless I missed something.


Rotate the L-adapter 90 degrees and use the original metric("207" style) filter.

At the bottom page in the summary. Do the reverse.
 
You can also wrap an old bread wrapper or other plastic bag around the oil filter before you remove it. The bag will catch any dripping oil....
 
I may just rotate it. The biggest problem is the nut who puts the filter on too tight because he doesn't want it to leak :lecture: Seems when I go 5k miles instead of the usual 3k I have fun getting it loose. Guess I need to do do two things. 1) rotate it and 2) change it on time. Shall we entertain a new discussion on how often we should change it? BTW hot tip, Motorcraft 10w-30 is a semi-syn for $1.50 qt at Wally World. Have to look close they have a semi syn and a Dino.
 
asatxj said:
I may just rotate it. The biggest problem is the nut who puts the filter on too tight because he doesn't want it to leak :lecture: Seems when I go 5k miles instead of the usual 3k I have fun getting it loose. Guess I need to do do two things. 1) rotate it and 2) change it on time. Shall we entertain a new discussion on how often we should change it? BTW hot tip, Motorcraft 10w-30 is a semi-syn for $1.50 qt at Wally World. Have to look close they have a semi syn and a Dino.


10-30 way to low viscosity I have always run 20-50 quaker state and never had any engine problems. 95 is on 250,000 miles and still within 1% of original factory specs on compression etc.
 
20-50???? I wouldn't be able to start it half the year with molasses in my engine. Mine lives outside in Michigan and 20-50 is way to heavy here, maybe in the dessert SW like Arizona, not here.
 
Ok, so why run 20-50, the owners manual says 10-30 for my application. Now, if you have issues with compression or oil burning the heavier grade may be helpful. I ran 20-50 in a old Ford Fiesta for no good reason and when I switched to 10-40 I picked up 2 mpg. I wasn't burning oil so the change in grade didn't harm a thing, just let the engine work less hard.
If you rock crawl a lot where excessive engine temps are an issue then I can see a heavy oil but not when I do DD and trail use that isn't >1mph I rarely use 4lo as I don't do that type of trails. If you do, then it may be a good idea.
naturally, opinions are like noses, everyone's got one.
 
I never do any oil in any vehicle under 10-40, never have to me the 10-30 is a minium reccomondation. and most of what I use em in is highway vehices. It has just been my experience over the past 30 years of driving I get less engine wear and able to push the vehicles harder running heavier oil. shoot my 95 has over 220,000 miiles on it and still within 1% of original factory compression and the oil remains clean for about 2000 miles.

If I ran the reccomended 10-30 in our shelby glhs the oil pressure would never rise above 20 and knocks like a mofo. with 20-50 no knocking and 65 psi.

In the comanche 2.5 4 cyl I have little if any blowby into the air cleaner with 20-50 and about a quart a month with 10-30

anyone running an older pre HO xj will get much better results with a higher viscosity oil as requards to ail in the air filter. and will run smoother also. In my seat of the pants experience
 
Ivan said:
You can also wrap an old bread wrapper or other plastic bag around the oil filter before you remove it. The bag will catch any dripping oil....

Good disposable solution...

I'm going to have to try that next time.
 
you could just get a remote filter setup and put it wherever you want , plus then you could run different type of filters , dual filters, cooolers , or a bypass.
I got my dual remote set up for under 50 bucks if I remember right. It is set up 2 run 2 of the large Ford filters.
 
Re: Oil viscosity recommendations?

Hi! I'm new to the forum, but v. much appreciate all the useful technical tips, etc. I especially appreciated the posts on noisy mid-'90s XJ distributors, which helped me decide to replace my '96 4.0 distributor last week right away after it started to squeal like a stuck pig at 92,00 miles. Too bad -- I've had many old engines that ran over 200,000 miles on the original distributor, with failure mode being too much play in the bushings and a bit shorter life on distributor caps, rotors, etc., not seized up bearings that cause internal engine damage when they fail!

I agree with the comment below about pre-HO 4.0 engines and their preference for heavier oils. I also have an '89 Comanche w/ 4.0 engine, which I have owned since it was new, and it has always seemed to do better on the heavier viscosity oils, at least in the 3 warmer seasons -- oil pressure runs higher at high temperature, and slight leak in rear main seal is minimized. After 16 yrs. and 212K of hard service with no engine work other than routine maintenance and an oxygen sensor and TPS 100K mi. back, I just passed strict Maryland emissions inspection with flying colors -- even better than 4 yrs. ago (mostly thanks to new factory catalytic converter, probably) -- order of magnitude better than State standards for '89 on all three criteria. I haven't done a compression test in a long time, but with those emission test results it must be o.k. -- so 15W-50 oil for 200,00 miles certainly hasn't hurt the older 4.0 engine...

On the '96 HO engine I have always followed the factory spec., which is 10W-30. I am v. curious to hear what others have to say about using heavier oils in that engine. Nearing 100K miles now, I would be tempted to convert to 15W-50, at least in warm season, as the engine develops some wear. What's even more interesting is that some newer engines (e.g, '05 Chrysler V6s) are now specifying 5W-20 oil, and dealer parts clerks are telling people that they will void their warranties if they use anything heavier than that. Very few aftermarket parts stores even sell 5W-20 oil... then I find out that when dealers' customers pay extra to have the service dept. change oil with "synthetic" they are getting Mobil 1 10W-30. What gives (other than what we already know, i.e., dealerships are often staffed by scam artists)?



xjnation said:
I never do any oil in any vehicle under 10-40, never have to me the 10-30 is a minium reccomondation. and most of what I use em in is highway vehices. It has just been my experience over the past 30 years of driving I get less engine wear and able to push the vehicles harder running heavier oil. shoot my 95 has over 220,000 miiles on it and still within 1% of original factory compression and the oil remains clean for about 2000 miles.

If I ran the reccomended 10-30 in our shelby glhs the oil pressure would never rise above 20 and knocks like a mofo. with 20-50 no knocking and 65 psi.

In the comanche 2.5 4 cyl I have little if any blowby into the air cleaner with 20-50 and about a quart a month with 10-30

anyone running an older pre HO xj will get much better results with a higher viscosity oil as requards to ail in the air filter. and will run smoother also. In my seat of the pants experience
 
If you are worried about warranty, read your owners manual. They will often tell you a range of oils for severe service conditions and so on. If a heavier oil
makes you feel better you can always claim you meet the severe service conditions.

Personally I follow the base spec, 10-30. 150k withoug a problem.
My last car (pontiac) went over 200k on the 5-30 called for - never used a drop of oil between changes. I gave it to my brother 2 years ago and its still going,
(likely on the last oil I put in..)
 
xjnation said:
If I ran the reccomended 10-30 in our shelby glhs the oil pressure would never rise above 20 and knocks like a mofo. with 20-50 no knocking and 65 psi.

Sorry for the hijack, but the letters "GLHS" popped my eyebrows up - am I reading correctly that you have a Shelby Omni GLHS?

Rob
 
Getting back on topic.....this is just a thought on changing the oil filter adapter on your newer motor to the older style: doing a full change to the older style means less oil flow (smaller passage), smaller oil filter (less capacity), and harder to find oil filter due to the mm threading. Not only that, but when I changed my older style filter adapter to the newer style, I found it made less of a mess during filter changes.
 
Tom R. said:
Getting back on topic.....this is just a thought on changing the oil filter adapter on your newer motor to the older style: doing a full change to the older style means less oil flow (smaller passage), smaller oil filter (less capacity), and harder to find oil filter due to the mm threading. Not only that, but when I changed my older style filter adapter to the newer style, I found it made less of a mess during filter changes.
I would just rotate the filter adapter 90* so the filter sits vertically. I have the new style (97 motor) so there's no need to change back to the old stuff.
 
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