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What was done to YOUR rig(XJ/MJ) today MECHANICALY????

yeah the water pump isn't that old, doesn't seem to be weeping, I could double check that though. The thermostat could probably be replaced though it does appear to be working.

I did have to flush my whole coolant system as when the radiator went it allowed the tranny fluid to mix with my coolant. Destroyed the AW4, and I flushed and flushed the coolant system. Could be an issue steaming from that with the water pump. I flushed and back flushed the heater core
 
Numbers said:
Power steering goodies came in! I also got steering and trans coolers mounted. Trimming the grill to fit is going to be a bitch!

https://imgur.com/a/mrgGfap
Click to expand...

For the tranny cooler, are you running it in-line with the radiator cooler or are you bypassing the radiator and just running the fluid to the aux cooler and then back to the tranny?

I may do the above as I dont want to lose another tranny to the fluids mixing. I know up north they want the tranny fluid to flow through the radiator as it helps warm the fluid up in the cold winters.
 
R6TeXJ said:
For the tranny cooler, are you running it in-line with the radiator cooler or are you bypassing the radiator and just running the fluid to the aux cooler and then back to the tranny?
Click to expand...

I am bypassing the radiator completely for the transmission and only running the separate cooler. If I end up having issues with it running too cold, i plan on adding one of the little thermostat blocks in the system.
 
Numbers said:
I am bypassing the radiator completely for the transmission and only running the separate cooler. If I end up having issues with it running too cold, i plan on adding one of the little thermostat blocks in the system.
Click to expand...

I plan on doing the same, but not sure what to do with the lines that go to and from the radiator once I cut them to route to just the cooler.
 
My plan is to figure out the threading on the transmission radiator ports and source some kind of plugs.
 
yeah that is what I was wondering about as well. I thought that once you cut the lines the left overs are in the radiator and might be able to stick a bolt with a clamp or something around the outside of the hose/bolt to "plug" it. but not sure there is room and not sure if it would then be flapping around and could catch on something else.
 
Well the shifter tab I fabbed up works great for the 241.

Installed it, hooked up the novak cable shifter, worked. Threw on the yokes and bolted the crossmember up with my 1/4 spacers. Checked and I've got some space above the case.

At that point I go to shift it back out of 4Lo, and it wont move forward past neutral. Bracket for the cable routing is hitting the bottom of the shifter and preventing it from moving. Wasn't an issue till I had everything bolted up in place. Looks like my 1/4" spacer wasn't quite enough.

May try a 1/2", but also ordered an Azzy's linkage. This cable shifter seems to be more trouble than its worth.
 
Dang John, best of luck getting it figured out!

This weekend, I managed to get my front springs pulled. The bolts for the lower bump stop extensions were completely seized up and had to be destructively removed...

Working on getting some Prothane bumpstops all sorted out. Then onto the steering assist ram. also need longer brake lines...
 
Wasn't today, but I drove my (totally an XJ) up to my mom's place in Kentucky. I forgot how terrible driving lifted jeeps hundreds of miles is.
046fb4b30424c136e928e8d354c923de.jpg


Sent from my SM-S901U1 using Tapatalk
 
Got it working!

Ordered a cheap t case drop off Amazon, 9/10 of an inch. Gave it enough clearance to shift. No vibes on the test drive either. Just need to put the front shaft back in. Had to test it without one so I could go into 4lo. That first gear is lowwwwww
 
Got my new harbor freight apex installed! I love how the control unit fits nicely in the engine compartment. Also new braided front brake line extensions yesterday.
75a3018faea612b2a08b1513bf7b84e6.jpg
e2b7c57049726e66c6125417bebf55de.jpg


Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
 
Got the front driveshaft back on.

Two things on my to do list:

1. Rear main and oil pan gasket
2. Replace rockers with 2x6. Or be lazy and buy new sliders.
 
Making great progress, John! I want to see that rig when it is back on the road. i bet that low gear is crazy.

Sharp rig, Phil! bumper looks great!

Finished up the inserts for my front prothane bump stops :). Ready to tack the ram on and check for interference during articulation.

Current issue is that my tie rod contacts the differential cover nearing full lock in either direction. the cover 3/8" thick, so hopefully i can get the clearance i need with a grinder. If not, looks like the welder will get invoiced. I have yet to weld anything that needs to hold fluid, but how hard can it be.. I was living with that before, but want it fixed before the hydraulic ram gets into the mix.

To-Do list:
1) Fabricate spring retainers
2) Install front/rear bumpstops and front springs
3) Eliminate interference between tie road and diff cover
4) Install steering ram
5) Plumbing for transmission and steering
6) Install new headlight wiring harness
7) State inspection


edit: and 2x6 rockers would be awesome! Let me know if you want to go halfsies on a stick. I bet price is crazy these days.
 
Numbers said:
edit: and 2x6 rockers would be awesome! Let me know if you want to go halfsies on a stick. I bet price is crazy these days.
Click to expand...

I think I'm just gonna buy new bolt on ones and modify them to fit with the long arm brackets. Seems like a faster/easier job and I dont really need the extra clearance.

What did you do for inserts on the prothanes? I'm running them but not sure I've got the best hard stop setup.
 
For the inserts, i cut some 3" steel discs for the top and welded them to some 1.5" tube that slides into the inserts. I pretty much copied Cal's setup that is documented on here somewhere, but mine are definitely better because i made them :)
 
Numbers said:
For the inserts, i cut some 3" steel discs for the top and welded them to some 1.5" tube that slides into the inserts. I pretty much copied Cal's setup that is documented on here somewhere, but mine are definitely better because i made them :)
Click to expand...

Ah so you've got the plate on top of the prothane, not on the tower on the unibody?

I did some oversized washers going into the tower with a button head allen screw. I probably should have used some thicker plate though, just dont have a good cutter for steel discs.
 
The plates are on top of the prothanes, correct. I also have some new bump stops that i am going to trim with maybe 1/8" coming out of the tower. Only really there to prevent metal on metal contact.

I cut the discs out with my angle grinder. Total nightmare!

Photos: https://imgur.com/a/JoYagVS
 
Dirtbound sliders showed up fast.

Looks like they'll use the same rear bolt holes from my old JCR's. Then I can cut the mounting bracket off the front leg and weld it to the long arm brackets.
 
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