Fuel pump & gas tank replacement on '92, how to

Hi All,

Replaced the gas tank and fuel pump on my 1992 XJ 4.0L 4X4 auto trans. This vehicle also has a factory gas tank shield. Installed a Bosch fuel pump.

The pump operates quietly in a nearly empty tank. Replacement tank was a drop-in with no hassles. Bosch pump required simple mods to make it fit. Part numbers below.

If anyone knows the part numbers and supplier for the tank filler hoses please post these. NAPA has general purpose hoses but they seem really stiff and I expected they would be difficult to install. I re-used my 25 year old hoses since they had no cracks and seemed in good condition.

Here is a step by step list of what I did. You could use this as a plan if you are doing the same job.



Safety
Eye protection
Beware of gasoline entering ear canal
Perform this service in well ventilated area
Beware ignition hazards such as sparks, water heater pilot lights, cigarettes.
Use copper hammer and drift to remove securing ring from old tank fuel pump assy.



Shopping List


Gas Tank: Amazon - Spectra Premium JP2B Fuel Tank for Jeep Cherokee/Wagoneer $74.49 with free shipping.
(Tank arrived with new o-ring and locking ring for fuel pump assy .)
Evaporation valve: Amazon - Genuine Chrysler J5360058 Fuel Tank Rollover Safe Valve (2 required) $21.99
Valve seal: Amazon - Crown Automotive 52018823 Vapor Valve Seal (2 required) $7.44
Fuel pump to fuel filter hose: 3/8" ID (3 feet required). Must be certified for fuel injection use.
Fuel return to tank hose: 5/16" ID (2 feet required)
Evaporation valve hose: 3/16" ID (4 feet required)
4" X 10" X 1/16 rubber sheet.
Tank to filler main hose. 1 1/2" ID (need p/n)
Tank to filler vent hose. 5/8" ID (need p/n)
Contact cement
Silicone oil
WD 40





Preparation

Review youtube.com videos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gm_m1hKtY8&t=318s

Purchase parts
Primer and paint new gas tank
Operate vehicle until gas tank is nearly empty
Measure pressure at fuel rail with vacuum to pressure regulator disconnected. (40 psi)
Wire brush threads of retaining bolts.
Soak retaining bolts with liquid wrench. Coat with anti-sieze.



Removal Procedure

Place vehicle on axle stands. Height should be low enough for floor jack to reach tank.
Remove rear wheels.

Photograph area for reference for re-installation.

Depressurize fuel line using valve on fuel rail.

Remove filter outlet fuel line, connect several feet of new fuel line, pump remaining gas out using vehicle fuel pump.
(Didn't work - need some way of convincing fuel pump to operate.)

If factory tank skid plate
Support skid plate with rachet strap from leaf spring to leaf spring
Remove muffler pipe hanger
Remove 4 X 18 mm bolts
Support skid plate with floor jack
Release strap.
Lower skid plate and remove from area.

Mark fuel pump with pencil noting which line goes to filter and which is return. (larger port is pressure, small is return)
Disconnect hoses and electrical from fuel pump. Catch gas in a cup.

Remove shield covering filler tube at bottom of vehicle.
Remove gas cap.
Remove hose clamps securing 2 rubber hoses to filler cap.
WD 40 hose connections to filler tube.
From gas cap side gently pound long pry upon hoses to press them off.
Disconnect two screws (8mm) on filler tube and remove. Inspect.


Loosen tank strap retainer hanger bolts (9/16) to the point where they can be removed but do not remove.
Remove passenger side hanger bolt and strap.

Support tank with floor jack in middle. Align jack wheels towards passenger side.
Remove driver side hanger bolt.
Lower tank and move towards passenger side until filler hoses clear.
Lower driver side of tank by hand.
Remove tank from under vehicle. Be careful when dragging tank that there are no sparks.

Remove fuel pump assy from tank.

Install new fuel pump on fuel pump assy removed from tank.
The white plastic spacer supplied with new pump must be cut a little.
The factory mount has a small groove that must be widened a little to receive the top fuel pump mount bracket.
The wiring harness supplied with the new pump must be used.
Red pump wire to wire from fuel tank connector.
Black pump wire to ground on factory pump assembly.
Hose clamps supplied with new pump should be replaced with higher quality clamps.

Install new fuel pump into tank using o-ring and metal ring supplied with tank.

Install evap valve rubber seals into new tank.
Silicone oil inside of seal.
Press new evap valve into seal.

Glue on 2" X 10" x 1/16" rubber strips in two recesses in new tank.

Install new filler neck hoses.

Move tank under vehicle
Unscrew nuts on tank retainer straps to nearly off the bolts.
Install tank retainer straps into rear of vehicle.
Lift driver side of tank and pass filler hoses through port in chassis.
Lift tank into position.
Install passenger side retainer strap loosly
Install driver side retainer strap loosly

Coat tube attach points on filler neck with light coating of silicone oil.
Install filler neck into hanger and secrue with two screws.
Install filler hoses from tank onto filler neck. Secure with hose clamps.
Install shield covering filler hoses on underside of vehicle.
Install gas cap.

If factory gas tank shield, install shield loosely
Tighten tank retaining straps
if factory gas tank shield, tighten retainer bolts (18mm)
Install new fuel pump hoses.
Connect electrical.
Cable tie all in place

Start vehicle.
Measure fuel pressure. Should be the same as previously.
Inspect all connections for gasoline leaks while engine running.

Mike

Damn nice write up. I just did an 87 recently, and I used the Amazon - Spectra Premium gas tank for the 87, and Amazon also had the 2 filler neck hoses. Great quality and price and free delivery with Prime!!! Had Bosch pump spares (new) on hand from a close out years ago.

Wish there had been a write up to guide me. Had to beg Cruiser54 for a set of used gas tank straps and bolts to finish the install.

Hi Echomike

If you can recall the part numbers for hoses at Amazon, please post these. I would have purchased the hoses if I had a part number. A little late now.

I should expand the last line of the original post based on some learning I did last night:

Inspect all connections for gasoline leaks while engine running.

Should really read:

Fill gas tank to capacity.
Be prepared to siphon 15 gallons gasoline out of tank.
Inspect all connections to tank with engine running.
Look for leaks from the fuel pump pressure line.
Look for leaks at the fuel filter.
Look for leaks around the perimeter seal between fuel pump assembly and tank.


I discovered my tank leaking in the garage last night at the fuel pump to tank seal. It was a fairly quick leak and I'm afraid if it had leaked all night the water heater would have ignited it. Fortunately my neighbor races motorcycles and had 3 X 5 gal empty gas cans. I removed 15 gallons which brought fuel level below the pump seal and stopped the leak. Tonight I'll have the fuel pump assembly off and try to figure out the leak.

Removed the fuel pump assembly. The o-ring between the assembly plate and the tank was twisted at the top.

The tank was supplied with a o-ring of the normal type: a rubber ring with a circular cross section.

The factory installed an unusual o-ring: a rubber ring with a rectangular cross section. The new pump arrived with a new o-ring of this type.

Comparing the tank o-ring with the factory reveals that the tank o-ring is slightly larger in diameter. I selected the circular cross section tank o-ring for the new seal. I noted it was difficult to install with the tank sitting on a table in front of me and despite the really good access I still didn't get it right. I believe this is because the tank o-ring is too large to fit into the recess in the tank and so it protrudes out somewhere around the seal. Jamming it back under during pump installation must buckle a part of the ring into the tank area and compromises the seal.

I installed the new factory o-ring. Since the tank is now in the vehicle I had to do this without good access. It seemed to go OK.

I'll put the gasoline back in tomorrow and evaluate the seal.

Beware the o-ring supplied with this tank. Carefully compare it to the factory o-ring and also to the tank seal gland. If too large in diameter, use the factory o-ring.

mhead said:

Hi All,


Safety
Beware of gasoline entering ear canal

Click to expand...

Yeah?

There a story there? Sounds like it'd be hilarious :laugh3:

Sorry xCWolf, not very hilarious. I have otoliths in my ears from too many years surfing in cold water. So my ear canals are somewhat closed. When working on this same assembly while under the vehicle some years ago gasoline accidentally dripped into one ear. It is really painful. And unfortunately I didn't have a squirt arrangement (I have one now - a big syringe) to flush the ear with water.

So I got a chemical burn inside the ear. It pussed up and for a couple of weeks I couldn't hear. The ear healed but the puss remained. It is really maddening to have one ear completely deaf. Eventually my doctor told me to use a dental water pic with warm water on lowest setting to flush the ear. Worked first time! I had to repeat for several more weeks.

So it wasn't much fun. Now that I know I'm extra careful.

Gasoline went back in tonight with the o-ring that arrived with the pump (a exact duplicate of the factory ring) now used to seal the pump assembly. No leaks around the pump assembly where it enters the fuel tank! So I did install the o-ring that arrived with the tank incorrectly. I blame this on the o-ring which is slightly larger diameter than the factory ring.

The moral of the story is to carefully look at the o-ring that arrives with the tank and be really suspicious if it isn't an exact fit.

mhead said:

Shopping List


Gas Tank: Amazon - Spectra Premium JP2B Fuel Tank for Jeep Cherokee/Wagoneer $74.49 with free shipping.
(Tank arrived with new o-ring and locking ring for fuel pump assy .)
Evaporation valve: Amazon - Genuine Chrysler J5360058 Fuel Tank Rollover Safe Valve (2 required) $21.99
Valve seal: Amazon - Crown Automotive 52018823 Vapor Valve Seal (2 required) $7.44
Fuel pump to fuel filter hose: 3/8" ID (3 feet required). Must be certified for fuel injection use.
Fuel return to tank hose: 5/16" ID (2 feet required)
Evaporation valve hose: 3/16" ID (4 feet required)
4" X 10" X 1/16 rubber sheet.
Tank to filler main hose. 1 1/2" ID (need p/n)
Tank to filler vent hose. 5/8" ID (need p/n)
Contact cement
Silicone oil
WD 40

Mike

Click to expand...

This is missing the one thing I want: What is the part number for the Bosch fuel pump?

Sorry, I reviewed my records from 2017 and can not find the receipt nor the P/N for the Bosch fuel pump. I would like to know this myself now since I want to replace the fuel pump soon. I guess you'll just have to hunt "Bosch". I recall I purchased a different type at substantially less cost but this pump, although it worked, made a loud sound when the tank was 1/2 or less full. I was afraid the pump would dry out and so I replaced it. I'm still running the Bosch pump now at 75K with no problems. Sorry I don't have more info.