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  #1  
Old September 4th, 2017, 16:43
zaroot zaroot is offline
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Wack's D44 Build 1996 xj

96 xj
Swapping 86 wagoneer axles Dana 44 front and rear
Just had last outing on my d30/8.8 and 35" MTRs.
New rounders are 15" raceline beadlocks on 37" TSL

Will be doing a basic progression summary

Only real question I have at the moment is about Dana 44 knuckles. My FSJ 44 does not have flat top knucks. I have found a 1978 GM Dana 44 that has flat tops for cheap. Uses 6 bolt spindles as well. Driver side already drilled and tapped. Question being, can I use just the GM d44 knuckles and bolt all my FSJ d44 spindles, hubs, rotor, caliper? Or do I need to stay GM from knuckle outward?

Have Used this page over the years for most of my tech and last build. http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html
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  #2  
Old September 4th, 2017, 17:25
zaroot zaroot is offline
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Wack's D44 Build 1996 xj

Last hoorah


Getting some work done




Pic of GM d44



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  #3  
Old September 4th, 2017, 17:37
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Kittrell Kittrell is offline
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Re: Wack's D44 Build 1996 xj

Yes, you can use the chevy flat tops and bolt all of your FSJ stuff to them with the right years.

http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html
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Old September 4th, 2017, 17:37
zaroot zaroot is offline
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Wack's D44 Build 1996 xj

That's all I needed to hear. Thank you

I was unsure due to that page talking about 73-76, since they started phasing in the 10 bolt in 77. Plus there's a statement about having to use brand specific from knuckle out, so I wasn't sure if you could swap between Dana this and that.


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Last edited by zaroot; September 4th, 2017 at 18:10.
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  #5  
Old September 4th, 2017, 18:46
VAhasnoWAVES VAhasnoWAVES is offline
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Re: Wack's D44 Build 1996 xj

the FSJ basically uses GM stuff. everything from the brake caliper mount/spindle out will bolt on. i actually use the GM small bearing spindle and a ford hub to convert my chevy stuff to ford 5on5.5 bolt pattern.

one suggestion... it looks like you intend to run the coils over the axle tube. this will stretch the front axle. which is fine. but with high steer you will have to move the steering gear forward on the frame for the pitman arm to clear the tier rod (depending on the steering setup you choose and where you set full bump).

another suggestion... because you are putting the coils on top of the tube... consider running the track bar further down the tube, possibly in front of the coil, in order t get it as close to the same length as the drag link as possible.
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Old September 5th, 2017, 03:02
zaroot zaroot is offline
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Wack's D44 Build 1996 xj

Gotcha, makes sense.

Yeah I'm measuring about a 1.5-2" push forward, since the factory d30 buckets sit a bit further ahead of the tube centerline. Everything seems in check for the most part. Track bar should have clearance, and mount will be spaced like suggested, to parallel drag link. Regarding the steering, the xj box/pitman is currently sitting with plenty of room to accommodate a 1.5-2" axle push. I know the high steer arms push your tierod/drag link connection further out on top of the knuckle, and depending on how far it cycles, I see your concern. I'll mock it up first and adjust the bump stops accordingly. Already know they'll need to be reworked as I will be running these 37s on the same 4.5" lift


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  #7  
Old September 5th, 2017, 03:58
zaroot zaroot is offline
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Wack's D44 Build 1996 xj

Has anyone had luck with this kit? ES numbers match Moog 7/8-18 ton parts. Says the arms are billet. I just hate buying DOM online, shipping cost alone for Ruff Stuff kit I want is $60. This plus locally sourced tubing would be about half price






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  #8  
Old September 5th, 2017, 06:04
VAhasnoWAVES VAhasnoWAVES is offline
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Re: Wack's D44 Build 1996 xj

to accommodate the high steer arm i had to install a longer pitman arm to still get a turning radius. this is what hurt my ability to push the axle forward without moving the steering gear. like i said, your results will vary, but it was an issue i had. i also was willing to give up zero up travel.

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Old September 5th, 2017, 06:29
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Re: Wack's D44 Build 1996 xj

I could remember wrong, but won't that FSJ rear axle be to narrow for an XJ?

I seem to recall them being 61.5 front and 58" rear.
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Old September 5th, 2017, 07:45
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Re: Wack's D44 Build 1996 xj

Quote:
Originally Posted by cal View Post
I seem to recall them being 61.5 front and 58" rear.
Close! 60.5" F / 58.5" R. It can be run with spacers or a deep backspaced wheel.
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Old September 5th, 2017, 09:05
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Re: Wack's D44 Build 1996 xj

Quote:
Originally Posted by VAhasnoWAVES View Post
one suggestion... it looks like you intend to run the coils over the axle tube. this will stretch the front axle. which is fine. but with high steer you will have to move the steering gear forward on the frame for the pitman arm to clear the tier rod (depending on the steering setup you choose and where you set full bump).
While coil placement really doesnt affect where the axle sits, wouldnt moving the coil from behind the axle centerline to in front be making the wheelbase shorter? (Assuming you corrected control arm length to keep coils over upper coil buckets?)

edit: nevermind, for some reason I was thinking the coil sat behind axle centerline on a D30. Derp derp.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VAhasnoWAVES View Post
to accommodate the high steer arm i had to install a longer pitman arm to still get a turning radius. this is what hurt my ability to push the axle forward without moving the steering gear. like i said, your results will vary, but it was an issue i had. i also was willing to give up zero up travel.

What pitman arm did you use?

I used a FSJ pitman arm, and pushed my front axle forward a couple inches (I want to say 2-3") and didnt have any clearance issues at full bump.
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  #12  
Old September 5th, 2017, 09:21
VAhasnoWAVES VAhasnoWAVES is offline
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Re: Wack's D44 Build 1996 xj

Quote:
Originally Posted by Starboard M View Post
What pitman arm did you use?

I used a FSJ pitman arm, and pushed my front axle forward a couple inches (I want to say 2-3") and didnt have any clearance issues at full bump.
FSJ.

with both sides at full bump and wheels pointing forward the tie rod and drag link are parallel. this dictated how far i could push the axle forward. but it is a little dependent on what you build, right? i run inverted T steering on top of the parts mike high steer arm.

these photos were mocking up the track bar:



Last edited by VAhasnoWAVES; September 5th, 2017 at 09:24.
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  #13  
Old September 5th, 2017, 09:24
zaroot zaroot is offline
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Wack's D44 Build 1996 xj

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kittrell View Post
Close! 60.5" F / 58.5" R. It can be run with spacers or a deep backspaced wheel.


Yep, I have 1/4" spacers per side and 3.25" BS wheels


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  #14  
Old September 6th, 2017, 05:58
zaroot zaroot is offline
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Wack's D44 Build 1996 xj

Picked up the GM axle. Got pass side knuckle off and ready to send out for machining. Trying to compile a list of seals I need, and will be throwing in fresh ball joints while I'm in there. Never had a problem with Spicers, but I think I will go Moog for trail use because I can flush the grease as needed. Got steering and tube on order. Will clean up housing some more while waiting on parts man.






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  #15  
Old September 7th, 2017, 08:20
zaroot zaroot is offline
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Wack's D44 Build 1996 xj

Got billet arms, GM TREs, seals, drive shaft joint, and ball joints. Knuckle getting sent out to WFO. Called 5 machine shops in the MD region and no one wants to do it. JB Machine in White Marsh MD did my last one, but their price escalated and they're 2-3 weeks out. Minor setback but what can you do


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