Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum!
If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page.
Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
Try moving the pinion back. If that was a pattern from a shop then most would leave it but you will get it better. This is why homebrew setup is ussually the best.
You pinion is not deep enough. Move it in about .008" and pull another pattern. This will close up the BL about 3 thousands, but you have some room to work with.
factory shim pack on the pinion is usually .060-.065" range total. I'm having a brain fart so I can't remember the #'s exactly.
factory shims look like this...
pinion gear
.060 oil slinger
inner pinion bearing
.020" oil baffle (stepped shim)
preload shims,
outer pinion bearing
slinger
seal
yoke...
The factory adjusted pinion depth via different oil slingers under the inner pinion bearing. Not very cost effective...
aftermarket install kits such as Yukon go with shims under the inner pinion cup along with the baffle.
BTW, the baffle is to keep oil up around the outer pinion bearing so its important. But not crutial.
the Yukon kit switched to a .030" oil slinger. then you add around .030" of shim pressed into the housing with that inner bearing cup.
part of the problem is that if you don't get it right then you will destroy the baffle when you go to hammer the race back out. so sub in an extra .020" of shim until final assy.
Pinion is definatly shallow though. and make sure you clean the cosmoline off the ring gear and pinion before continuing to check patterns. I see a couple of specs still there.
are you turning the ring gear into the pinion or just spinning the pinion? Turn the ring gear. its harder to do and hence makes a better pattern.
also snap a pic of the pinion if you can. I like to look at the pinion to give me a better storry of the pattern.
start with making the pinion about .005" deeper and see what that does. don't touch the backlash. its gonna tighten up. check the pattern then change the BL after you know how the pinion depth is. But not to shabby. your in the ballpark.
Backlash went down to .002, so I had to adjust it.
Backlash is now .009
I am pretty happy with this pattern.
Just a FYI, this is a trail only rig. It see's little to no pavement time (just moving to avoid street sweeping). It's trailered to the trail, and is being used to rock crawl.
what was the pattern with the BL at .006? nothing wrong with that. I'm more curious on the pattern. The pinion depth looks decent. (without seeing the pinion) but BL looks a little off.
what was the pattern with the BL at .006? nothing wrong with that. I'm more curious on the pattern. The pinion depth looks decent. (without seeing the pinion) but BL looks a little off.
The BL wasn't .006, when I added .005 to bring the pinion in deeper, the BL changed to .002. It was WAY too tight. I could hardly move it. So I had to adjust it. .002 was way out of spec.
If I have to, I will adjust it further.
At this point the BL is between .009-.010.
I don't like how the drive side is so far out to the heel. How do I bring it inward toward the toe?
Pinion depth is pretty obvious to understand. Look for the oval. always look for the oval. if its long and skinny and out by the crown then its.... Shallow. add a few more shims to the pinion stack thus putting the pinion in a little deeper. If its long and skinny and down in the root then its.... Deep. remove shims from the stack... if its hanging off the toe or the heel then BL is to blame. start playing with it. I'd opt to take the BL tighter. get it down to .007-.006 ish range and see if it pulls the "oval" more center to the tooth. Don't focus so much on the coast side. (concave) of the gear teeth. worry more about the drive side (convex) side of the gear teeth. Before you mess with the pinion depth, try adjusting your BL a little more. sometimes getting the BL better centered will suprisingliy make the pattern a lot more legible.
and the rule of thumb for BL. 1.5 times the change.
if BL is .010 and you want .006 then the change is .004". times 1.5 is .006" so you would move .006" from the front to the back side of the ring gear.
The only thing I might be a little concerned about is how much shim you have under the carrier bearings.
OEM uses a total of about .100 of shim split between the two sides total. with about a 60/40 split. your showing .110 total. and having trouble getting the carrier out. that might be to much carrier preload. It should be a snug fit, not a jam packed fit to get the carrier in and out.
I kept with the same amount of carrier shims that were in the original carrier. I just shuffled the amounts around to get the BL in the ballpark. It is pretty tight, so I think I'll remove .002 and see if that helps things.
The backlash I checked again in a couple different spots. It is actually .012-.015 depending on where I check it from. WAY too much!!
I gotta tighten up the BL and then I'll get another pattern.
Yes I am turning the pinion yoke when checking these patterns. I'll wedge up a piece of wood in between the ring gear and the housing in each direction that I turn the yoke to provide some resistance.
New patterns will be posted up a little later.
Thanks for the help guys.
PS (This is nothing like the gear install went on my GM 14 Bolt. That was a cake walk in comparison)
ford 9" are easier. cuz they are lighter compared to the 14t.
Also, turn the ring gear into the pinion instead of trying to wedge somethign in. just turn the ring gear.
Oh and how much difference did you have when checking the BL in a few differnet spots?
13 years later after installing these gears, they are still doing GREAT.
I am actually pulling the carrier out and replacing the lock-right locker on this D30 with an ARB. I should have this done this weekend. I'll be reverifying the pattern once done and getting the backlash reset to spec.
Thanks again Rawbrown for the help with them gears way back 2007 for this D30 and early 2007 for my D44.
