need to swap D35 on my daughters 89XJ.
Could someone please share the best year/model for a direct bolt in?
Drive shaft length measured from the center of each u-joint on the tube part of the drive shaft for 4.0L with AW4 and NP231.
29 spline 8.25 .... 27 7/8"
1997 + D35 ........... 28 7/8"
1987 D44 .......... 29 5/8"
Drive Shaft Length for late 1990's + with NP231 and NP242 should be the same.
Note that driveshaft lengths vary according to axle/transmission combinations. Here is on example of some differences:
Note that those numbers are only for an AW4. Numbers will be different for an AX15 or AX5.
What this suggests is that while looking for a donor rear end you may want to source another driveshaft too.
Additionally, in case you were not aware, the U-bolts which attach the axle to the rear end are not to be re-used. You will need to get new U-bolts for the new axle. Also note that axle tubes come in different diameters depending on the rear end. Don't buy your new U-bolts until you know for certain what rear end you are installing.
I know those are some basic details and you may not have needed that information, but someone will be figuring those things out the hard way, and it is easily avoidable with just a bit of knowledge.
He not looking for an upgrade, just trying to get his daughter's jeep back on the road. Like I said on the other post, finding another d35 is your best, cheapest bet. Car part .com will give you the year range, which I think is all years, just watch the ratio, which is most likely 3.55.
I know its not what is supposed to be done but ive never bought a new u bolt in 25 years of working on cars and never had a failure. And if a u bolt was going to break from stress my daily run would do it! You also aren't supposed to compression splice brake lines but I rekon a lot of us are guilty of that too.
Good luck with the ebrake cables though. They were the hardest part of the whole thing!