• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

tail pipe

Black1990jeep

NAXJA Forum User
Location
california
On a lifted xj, the tail pipe is a tight fit between the gas tank skid plate and leaf spring, even with pipe really close to the gas tank skid plate, the pipe may still be hit by the leaf spring clamp.

is there any down side in cutting the tail pipe short, maybe even having it end right after the muffler rather than travel over the axle with the resulting bends in the pipe?

also my pipe is not mandrel bent, rather at the bends it is corregated, and necked down, probably not good for performance. I see mandrel bent pipe for sale verses the non mandrel bent pipes

mandrel bent..
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-17463/applications

not mandrel bent...
https://www.quadratec.com/p/crown-automotive/tail-pipe-jeep-cherokee-xj



1...anyway is it ok to cut off the tail pipe short of the gas tank, or even right out the muffler outlet?
and
2...does mandrel bent make a difference in performance verses the non mandrel bent?
 
I cut mine short, but not that short, and toasted the leaf spring bushing in less than a year since the pipe was aimed right at it.

I had a shop bend me up a new pipe to clear the leaf and the tank skid with no rubbing. That with a new flowmaster (to replace the one I had bashed in on a rock) was less than $200 installed.
 
I keep trying to get geared up to work on my exhaust. just can't do it when shops are so inexpensive. nearly knocked mine off last time out and it needs some love. think I'll lift it another 2" instead
 
Had the same problem.
With strategically placed spacers at the hanger & clamps and seem to remember modifying the hanger, my exhaust now clears the skid and tank with room to spare.
Doesn't rattle and is still stock with the tail pipe spewing as it should under the bumper.
Did take some trial and error re-engineering.
 
Do not cut it short or whatever it is pointing at will get very hot and very dirty from the soot. The stock tailpipe hanger makes it clear the leaf and tank but you still need to clear the bumper. On my setup I cut the exhaust a few inches short and then used a clamp-on turndown tip from Amazon to point it down and under, the tip is still protected up high but the bumper doesn't pick up heat or soot.

I use mandrel bent stuff everywhere
 
My xj dumps just after the crossmember through a 3" flow master. I haven't had any issues and I'm not dead yet. However it is loud. I now want go 2.5" from header to rear bumper.

This is 3" my girlfriend and I fabbed for her suburban. It exits tight by fuel tank similar to the xj.

If you have a grinder with suicide cut off wheels and welder you can do it to.

However a metal cutting saw makes it much easier to cut the pies for the bends. I make 6deg cuts


I have lots of short cuts off can never throw metal away. Did half exhaust on xj a few weeks okay. The suburban now a 80s ford is needing done.

Cant get my xj in. I'd forgotten I needed wanted to redo my exhaust till this thread popped up.
853171db9124ac63b4fb8ddc33485188.jpg
b2cb5b61b7b445b3886ca27da74e5ef1.jpg


Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
Mandrel bends are nice but spendy and still need cut down to fit.
A xj mandrel tail could be bought then you fit whatever muffler to it you want.

I like to have minimal amount of clamps in system. Usually one maybe two.

Use band clamps if you ever think you might want remove or loosen to make adjustments.
Always use slip fit mufflers/joints cut with grinder to make them slip fit if they arent.

Youl thank yourself later the clamps the fast food parts stores sell will swell into pipe and make removal and adjustments next to impossible without a grinder or sawzall.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
Sorry I cant figure out how to edit on tapatalk.

I looked under mine I dumped pretty much on axle with no issues even running on freeway at 80 with my foot on the floor.
I've had people ask if it's a v8 it has that v8 rumble with no rasp or popping. Itsnt terribly loud but I think it's to loud.

Pipe and muffler came off my k5 I yanked the rusted out cut and reused the flange at crossmember.

No issues for few years but does sit kinda low.

7c7de03ec2bc6caeb91c7875c57080e8.jpg
5cee20f4fd50c869fe3ff2fad16d335c.jpg
de58a4d5060f745a4029df984c56a9e9.jpg


Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
3 scrap cut offs. I find I can make most bends with two pies. Roughly 24deg. This picture is about 66deg of pie cuts. You can control how tight or how large the radius of the bend is.
This type of bend wnt flow like mandrel bend but on xj thts a non issue and bends can be made much tighter than mandrel
21cad0a0ae0d69c845db770e57da2dc2.jpg


Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
That's what everyone says. I bought the jeep all gung ho to get rid of them but ended up running them. The factory springs ride well and flex well.
I'll probably eventually build some shackle relocation boxes when I finish putting 1/4" plate on frame.
Then basterd pack the leaf packs I'll have to gain that 3" back.
Combination of zero rate adaleaf with long leafs or something to set ride height.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
1...anyway is it ok to cut off the tail pipe short of the gas tank, or even right out the muffler outlet?
and
2...does mandrel bent make a difference in performance verses the non mandrel bent?

1 - you can. a lot of people do. be sure to avoid roasting your leaf spring bushings. in dry environments a turn down after the muffler can kick up dust. muffler choice aside, i prefer to run exhaust all the way out the back for noise reduction. your preferences will be shaped by your tolerance for noise and particular environment.

2 - quantitatively... yes. in this application? ehhh... i wouldnt go out of my way or spend money to get one. your talking post muffler piping on a dated inline tractor motor. your not going to bolt anything on and see performance gains other than a placebo effect.

modifying yours with pie cuts like Evan03 pictured is the quickest/cheapest fix (other than chopping it after the muffler).
 
Back
Top