X factory Steering on 8" lift...any suggestions?

I'm going to be setting up an 8" lift soon and I've been looking around at some of the different steering setups. I really like the RockKrawler setup but it looks like it may limit my flex if my jeep ends up sitting at 8".

I didn't really like how you have to reem everything with JCR and it uses tubing not solid stock.

Anyone run the X Factor steering on a rig with 8"?

or

does anyone run another system that they like and have some input on?

wish I could edit the title!

Well

Read on the front page for "steering for 6.5 inches of lift" and follow the same data.

Any built steering system will probably require you to reem your knuckles, as at 8" you want high misalignment draglink ends, and that will require going to Chevy 2026/2027 ends and reeming .. or going with hiems, but thats even more work.

It's generally accepted that tube is stronger than solid stock for steering, and easier to work with.

cal said:

It's generally accepted that tube is stronger than solid stock for steering, and easier to work with.

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Huh?

I'll give you the 'easier to work with' part...

More surface area, more resistant to bending.. or so most people seem to think. I haven't put it to the test myself, but I have supported the weight of my rig on my DOM tie rod without bending it. 1.25x.250" wall.

I ran the RK steering on my TJ and liked it alot. I'm buying it for my MJ too. Although I'm only at around 6" lift. Oh... and it's not bending. I think you'd for sure break a knuckle before you'd bend that tie rod.

Great trail rig steering in my opinion. Worked flawlessly on the TJ. The install took about an hour and you don't have to change track bar mounts, track bars, brake parts, yada yada.

I'm sure someone will come on here and say it's junk but I ran it... and I liked it. My 2 cents.

cal said:

More surface area, more resistant to bending.. or so most people seem to think. I haven't put it to the test myself, but I have supported the weight of my rig on my DOM tie rod without bending it. 1.25x.250" wall.

Click to expand...

So you're implying that your 1.25"x.250" wall DOM tie rod is more resistant to bending than a 1.25" solid stock one?

I'm not implying anything, I'm stating that it's what I have been lead to believe yeah

Oh.

Well, the solid one is about 15% more resistant to bending than the hollow.

The hollow one weighs about 64% of the solid one though, which means it has a better strength-to-weight ratio, but isn't stronger.

Usually the strength of a solid section is just not needed, and/or not worth the increased weight.

www.phatjeeps.com

Check it out....but you better have deep pockets

i run the rk steering , on thier 8 inch lift , tie rod is sure beef thats for sure , but i couldnt keep tre in the draglink and you have to buy a tj or newer tre as they are a diffrent size then older xjs.

I plan to drive this on the road/ highway somewhat also...not very much, maybe 5k-6k a year.

anyone know if the RK kit will hold up for light road use?

I am running the RK kit with 6.5-7" of lift. I replied to your post on JF.

I am also interested to hear about the RK steering setup. Though I will be at around 6". I talked to Rusty yesterday, and he said he knew quite a few guys running his tie rod conversion on 6" and are doing well. It's more geared towards up to about 5" though, but it will work for 6". That appears to be a decent setup....tons better than stock for sure. Converts the factory Y into a solid tie rod knuckle to knuckle, then puts the drag link on top. (sorry to seem like im hi-jacking the post, just trying to do as much research as possible here)

green50gt said:

I am also interested to hear about the RK steering setup. Though I will be at around 6". I talked to Rusty yesterday, and he said he knew quite a few guys running his tie rod conversion on 6" and are doing well. It's more geared towards up to about 5" though, but it will work for 6". That appears to be a decent setup....tons better than stock for sure. Converts the factory Y into a solid tie rod knuckle to knuckle, then puts the drag link on top. (sorry to seem like im hi-jacking the post, just trying to do as much research as possible here)

Click to expand...

Rustys and RK(RockKrawler) are two very different entities.

Skullvarian said:

Rustys and RK(RockKrawler) are two very different entities.

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x2...stay away from rustys unless it's leaf springs.

Yes yes they are. I was talking about 2 different entities. Maybe I should have made a new paragraph or something...my bad.

I used 1.5" solid hot rolled. Cold rolled is better, but hey. 1.25" solid won't give you much wall on the ends when they are bored out for the inserts. 1.5" leaved you with 1/4" wall thickness outside of the threaded inserts. My tie rod is so freaking heavy (25+lbs) I can't ever see this thing bending more that a tiny bit. NO WAY it will ever break.

I used the steel 3/4 heims w/ 5/8 hole for tie rod.
3/4 hems w/ 3/4 hole for the drag link - with misalig. spacers that downsize the drag link hole to 5/8 also. Make sure you get safety washers if you use heim ends, and ASK how they are to be properly placed when installing.

I wouldn't use heims on a DD, but it was cheaper than $40 TREs.
Mine is woods only.

To do over the knuckle, you must get a 1/2 chuck drill, and a 5/8 bit.
drill out the knuckles for your new grade 8 bolts.

Also, you must figure out how to mount both the TR and the DL above the knuckle on the passenger side. Just a bolt won't cut it, too much leverage.
You need to make the tie rod double shear, I'm gonna make a 1/4" thick bracket that comes up from the knuckle sandwiching the TR heim between the bracket and the top of the knuckle. They make weld on kits to do this, but it's not very complicated to make.

I have this on the way. I hope it is as good of a system as people say it is.

http://www.downeastoffroad.com/HIGHSTEER.htm

I have the TnT - Y-link with about 7.5 inches of lift.

Z