nut on pinion gear?

[rngrfrd2000]

how am i suppost to torque the locking nut on the rear pinion on my 35...i cannt even loosen it without the impact...is this one of those things that i just hit it with the impact until it dont move on the pinion? i am replacing the inner and outer bearings and dont really want to do it twice...thanks guys

[Bryan C.]

Cut & paste

INSTALLATION

Install a new collapsible preload spacer on pinion shaft and install pinion gear in housing Collapsible Preload Spacer
Install pinion gear in housing.
Install yoke with Installer Screw 8112, Cup 8109, and holder 6958 Pinion Yoke Installation
Install the yoke washer and a new nut on the pinion gear and tighten the pinion nut until there is zero bearing end-play.
Tighten the nut to 271 N·m (200 ft. lbs.)
CAUTION: Never loosen pinion gear nut to decrease pinion gear bearing rotating torque and never exceed specified preload torque. If preload torque or rotating torque is exceeded a new collapsible spacer must be installed. The torque sequence will then have to be repeated.

Using yoke holder 6958 and a torque wrench set at 474 N·m (350 ft. lbs.), crush collapsible spacer until bearing end play is taken up Tightening Pinion Nut - Typical
NOTE: If the spacer requires more than 474 N·m (350 ft. lbs.) torque to crush, the collapsible spacer is defective and must be replaced.

Slowly tighten the nut in 6.8 N·m (5 ft. lbs.) increments until the rotating torque is achieved. Measure the rotating torque frequently to avoid over crushing the collapsible spacer Check Pinion Gear Rotating Torque
Check bearing rotating torque with a (in. lbs.) torque wrench Check Pinion Gear Rotating Torque The torque necessary to rotate the pinion gear should be:
Original Bearings - 1 to 3 N·m (10 to 20 in. lbs.)
New Bearings - 2 to 5 N·m (15 to 35 in. lbs.)

[rngrfrd2000]

k my parts store doesn't list that crush spacer....dealer item or can i reuse the old one and be successful?

[OT]

Originally Posted by rngrfrd2000

k my parts store doesn't list that crush spacer....dealer item or can i reuse the old one and be successful?

You're gonna want to use a new crush sleeve to achieve proper torque down.

[rngrfrd2000]

would a parts store have it or am i going to the dealer

[OT]

Originally Posted by rngrfrd2000

would a parts store have it or am i going to the dealer

Mine have come in install kits from Yukon.

I would say check with your local 4wd shop or try to order it online from a gear place.

Sorry no links right now except maybe www.randysringandpinion.com

[Matthew Currie]

If you're doing new bearings, I'd say definitely it's worth getting a new crush sleeve and doing it right. However, I must add that if you're just doing the seal on an old rear end, it should be possible to do without that if you're careful. Since the crush sleeve sets the bearing preload, you can assume that after long mileage that preload has relaxed a little. This means that when you reinstall the nut, it will crush down a little further when you set the preload a second time.

When I did my 87 a few years ago, I got a very big pipe wrench and an extension, and put it on the yoke, braced against the ground. It was then very easy to get the nut off with another big wrench without impact. After replacing the seal, I simply reversed the process and set the preload by feel. It worked fine. For all I know it continues to work fine. That D35 was certainly always quieter than my current Chrysler axle.

[Eagle]

I concur with Matthew -- for a seal replacement I wouldn't bother with a new crush sleeve. The method for setting preload requires that the ring gear NOT be engaged with the pinion, so you'd have to disassemble the diff.

The Jeep techs I hang around with tell me it takes +/- 300 foot-pounds of torque to crush that sleeve initailly, so when they do a pinion seal they just re-torque to about 250 foot-pounds. My torque wrench only goes to 150, but I just came back fro AutoZone and I found that the one they rent (but not the ones they sell) goes to 250.

[rngrfrd2000]

ok guys...now how in the h*ll am i going to torque that pinion to 300 ft/lbs. when i cannot find a way to hold it in place to torque it to 200 ft/lbs. i used a bar, floor jack, and even tried the crush the spacer with the impact till i reached the proper rotation torque in inch/lbs. but the impact didnt have it in it... so what am i doing wrong...next step is to go to the yard and get another one....but before i do can someone please ..HELP!!! before i

[Bryan C.]

Originally Posted by rngrfrd2000

ok guys...now how in the h*ll am i going to torque that pinion to 300 ft/lbs. when i cannot find a way to hold it in place to torque it to 200 ft/lbs. i used a bar, floor jack, and even tried the crush the spacer with the impact till i reached the proper rotation torque in inch/lbs. but the impact didnt have it in it... so what am i doing wrong...next step is to go to the yard and get another one....but before i do can someone please ..HELP!!! before i

Originally Posted by Matthew Currie

When I did my 87 a few years ago, I got a very big pipe wrench and an extension, and put it on the yoke, braced against the ground.

Basically the minimum/maximum torque spec is for the nut itself. Too loose and it will back off and you will loose all the preload you just set. The maximum spec is so you don't strip out the threads on the nut from overtorquing. Somehwere inbetween these 2 specs will be where you get the proper pinion turning torque set. Basically what Matthew Currie said is a good way to hold the pinion yoke to allow you to torque it to the proper turning torque. You will need a powerful impact gun and a good yoke holder to use the impact wrench method. Another way is to use a torque multiplier and a long ratchet with a yoke holder. The way I would think that you should do it is with a big pipe wrench and an extension bar and a long ratchet or breaker bar with an extension on the handle. Most people call this handle extension a cheater bar. Basically a long pipe that you slide ove the ratchet handle that increases leverage. Do this while checking your pinion turning torque regularly. When you get close, only move the nut in small increments to avoid cushing the spacer too much and having to start over.

Bryan