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  #31  
Old January 24th, 2019, 09:48
arto_wa arto_wa is offline
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Re: Engine swap vs shop

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4JeePmaNthINg View Post
..............How do you torque these without the engine spinning?



One way is to have a helper to hold back the engine with a socket & breaker bar by the harmonic balancer bolt.
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  #32  
Old January 24th, 2019, 12:09
arto_wa arto_wa is offline
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Re: Engine swap vs shop

Here's couple of photos showing one homemade way to rig up engine lift so that there is side to side & front to back adjustment.





https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...SDR4TVd LSmlR
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  #33  
Old January 24th, 2019, 16:54
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4x4JeePmaNthINg 4x4JeePmaNthINg is offline
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Re: Engine swap vs shop

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Originally Posted by arto_wa View Post
One way is to have a helper to hold back the engine with a socket & breaker bar by the harmonic balancer bolt.
I was thinking of that, but I was thinking it might break the h.b. bolt loose to.

I'll definitely keep that engine tilting trick in mind, I haven't seen that yet!

Thank you very much, there's all kinds of odd questions I keep running into that I hadn't thought of.

Last edited by 4x4JeePmaNthINg; January 24th, 2019 at 17:02.
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  #34  
Old January 25th, 2019, 01:06
Heavyopp Heavyopp is offline
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Re: Engine swap vs shop

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4JeePmaNthINg View Post
Are all aw4 flexplates the same, any reason use need to swap my old one?

How do you torque these without the engine spinning?
No they are not the same ó use the one you take out if itís good ó if you must replace then be sure the hole pattern on the edge matches ó these holes are how the crank position sensor knows where it is

I do believe there are differences between the years


Donít sweat the torque converter ó it may sound difficult but once you have hands on itís really not hard to figure out ó the torque converter should spin freely when the bolts are removed connecting it to the flex plate
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  #35  
Old January 25th, 2019, 07:15
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4x4JeePmaNthINg 4x4JeePmaNthINg is offline
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Re: Engine swap vs shop

I bought all new fel-pro gaskets. Manifold, oil pan, valve cover.
It's a rebuilt engine, are there any other particular parts that I should consider replacing?

So far I have the listed gaskets:
Need:
Harmonic balancer
- bolt broken off in one removal hole so I need to figure out that issue.

A new manifold or header may be on the list. My 99 manifold is toast, thge donor 93 has been repaired, but everything I read says it'll crack again.
-The front exhaust stud is broke off in the valve head, I need to fix this as well.

Thank you to everyone on the help and suggestions so far. There are a good amount of threads on engineswap topics that leave A Lot to be desired for questions answered. I didn't expect so many little unknowns to become need to know things, during this endeavor.

Any thoughts on fixing the broken bolts are much appreciated! I'm sure I'll have more ?s as this project continues.

Last edited by 4x4JeePmaNthINg; January 25th, 2019 at 07:22.
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  #36  
Old January 25th, 2019, 08:19
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Anak Anak is offline
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Re: Engine swap vs shop

Access to broken bolts is certainly easier when the engine is out of the vehicle.

Do you have a welder? Or do you know someone who does?

When you pick up the engine I would take it wherever the welder is before I unloaded it.

The best method I have found for removing broken bolts is to place a nut over the broken off end of the bolt and weld the nut to the broken off bolt. The heat from the welding seems to be just the ticket for breaking the bond between bolt and part, and the nut gives you something to get ahold of.

Whatever you do, do not waste your time with "Easy-Outs". Those are a worse misnomer than MREs or the Federal Reserve. They are anything but easy, and most likely will not bring the bolt out but will rather break off in the bolt. Then you end up with an extremely hard piece of metal embedded in the broken bolt. That leaves you looking for an EDM capable machine shop and a several hundred dollar invoice for bolt removal.

As to other things to do on the new engine before it goes in, now would be a great time to replace the oil filter adapter O-rings. You won't have the access problem for that monster torx bit while the engine is out, and you will have the ability to position yourself so you can apply some strength to the job. The Mopar O-ring set is available off Amazon, I think it is still less than $15. You can do a search for "Oil filter adapter" and read about everyone's battles and alternative plans of attack to see what you are avoiding by doing this job now.
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  #37  
Old January 25th, 2019, 10:08
Heavyopp Heavyopp is offline
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Re: Engine swap vs shop

Freeze out plugs -- If they are not new change them now while you can get at them -- all of them

I'd even go so far to say that even if they are new and steel to change them to brass -- steel will rust eventually

and yes as Anak said -- do those O-rings while its easy

How about rear main seal? -- once again much easier to do now
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  #38  
Old January 25th, 2019, 10:12
lawsoncl lawsoncl is offline
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Re: Engine swap vs shop

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4JeePmaNthINg View Post
I was thinking of that, but I was thinking it might break the h.b. bolt loose

In theory, it shouldn't be a problem. The HB balancer bolt torque is 80 ft-lbs, and the t/c to flexplate is 40-ft/lbs. Locktite the t/c bolts so they don't come loose, btw.
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  #39  
Old January 25th, 2019, 22:42
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4x4JeePmaNthINg 4x4JeePmaNthINg is offline
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Question Re: Engine swap vs shop

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Originally Posted by lawsoncl View Post
In theory, it shouldn't be a problem. The HB balancer bolt torque is 80 ft-lbs, and the t/c to flexplate is 40-ft/lbs. Locktite the t/c bolts so they don't come loose, btw.
Not the torque converter bolts, I need the flex plate removed from the engine and need to torque on my other one.
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  #40  
Old January 25th, 2019, 22:43
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4x4JeePmaNthINg 4x4JeePmaNthINg is offline
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Question Re: Engine swap vs shop

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anak View Post
Access to broken bolts is certainly easier when the engine is out of the vehicle.

Do you have a welder? Or do you know someone who does?

When you pick up the engine I would take it wherever the welder is before I unloaded it.

The best method I have found for removing broken bolts is to place a nut over the broken off end of the bolt and weld the nut to the broken off bolt. The heat from the welding seems to be just the ticket for breaking the bond between bolt and part, and the nut gives you something to get ahold of.

Whatever you do, do not waste your time with "Easy-Outs". Those are a worse misnomer than MREs or the Federal Reserve. They are anything but easy, and most likely will not bring the bolt out but will rather break off in the bolt. Then you end up with an extremely hard piece of metal embedded in the broken bolt. That leaves you looking for an EDM capable machine shop and a several hundred dollar invoice for bolt removal.

As to other things to do on the new engine before it goes in, now would be a great time to replace the oil filter adapter O-rings. You won't have the access problem for that monster torx bit while the engine is out, and you will have the ability to position yourself so you can apply some strength to the job. The Mopar O-ring set is available off Amazon, I think it is still less than $15. You can do a search for "Oil filter adapter" and read about everyone's battles and alternative plans of attack to see what you are avoiding by doing this job now.
Yes I have a welder, but the block bolt is broken inside the block, the harmonic balancer is broken flush
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  #41  
Old January 26th, 2019, 00:48
Heavyopp Heavyopp is offline
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Re: Engine swap vs shop

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4JeePmaNthINg View Post
Not the torque converter bolts, I need the flex plate removed from the engine and need to torque on my other one.
You can do that by just holding the flex plate in place with a bar/heavy screwdriver wedged against some of the bolts you are not torquing

Use the bar to work against the torque wrench
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  #42  
Old January 27th, 2019, 15:15
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4x4JeePmaNthINg 4x4JeePmaNthINg is offline
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Re: Engine swap vs shop

Trans cross member is now out,

Do I need to unhook the Nss, and Transfer case wires or will they be fine for lowering the engine ?

Any tips for disconnecting tcase/Trans linkage, as far as don't unbolt this, do unholy that?
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  #43  
Old January 27th, 2019, 16:34
lawsoncl lawsoncl is offline
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Re: Engine swap vs shop

Quote:
Originally Posted by Heavyopp View Post
You can do that by just holding the flex plate in place with a bar/heavy screwdriver wedged against some of the bolts you are not torquing

Use the bar to work against the torque wrench

Wrench on the harmonic balancer works too. Going the same direction, so no risk of loosening it.
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  #44  
Old January 28th, 2019, 09:31
arto_wa arto_wa is offline
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Re: Engine swap vs shop

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4JeePmaNthINg View Post
Trans cross member is now out,

Do I need to unhook the Nss, and Transfer case wires or will they be fine for lowering the engine ?

Any tips for disconnecting tcase/Trans linkage, as far as don't unbolt this, do unholy that?





No need to take out the transmission cross-member in order to remove the engine, but you should support the transmission when removing the engine & while it's out.
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  #45  
Old January 28th, 2019, 12:40
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4x4JeePmaNthINg 4x4JeePmaNthINg is offline
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Re: Engine swap vs shop

Quote:
Originally Posted by arto_wa View Post
No need to take out the transmission cross-member in order to remove the engine, but you should support the transmission when removing the engine & while it's out.
Don't you need to lower the trans to get access to the E12 bolts?


Also is it worth using anti sieze on exhaust bolts, harmonic balancer bolt, or really any/all. I was contemplating getting some copper/nickle antisieze, but not if I'm going to hurt anything torque wise.

Last edited by 4x4JeePmaNthINg; January 28th, 2019 at 13:07.
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