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Back door window won't close

Disconnect the glass from the window regulator, slid the glass up, and block it in place.
 
Thanks, I know that's the theory - but how?

The motor, regulator & glass seem to be one "lump" which I have unbolted from the inner door skin & can push up 4, 5" but can't get any better line of sight, never mind access. As I don't know how the glass is attached to regulator - & can't see it, I really don't have much hope.

It'll have wait another week now, with a plastic bag over the door top to keep the worst of the weather out (yes, I know it's Summer, but that means nothing here). Then I suppose I'll have to start looking for another door which, at the moment, looks like the easier option. (oh what possessed me to open that window, probably for the 1st time ever?)
 
It's not much more difficult than opening a Guinness. Remove the single bolt from the regulator to the glass, and Bob's your uncle.


.
 
I did go out and have another look at it before calling it quits for the day & could just about make out a large brass (I think) Torx screw head, which I now see looks like the one you mean. However there is no way of undoing it because it's behind what I assume is part of the regulator and the body of the motor - perhaps because the glass is at the bottom of its travel? :dunno:

Any ideas on removing these obstructions so I can get to the screw head?
 
Normally, you would roll up the window halfway and get access to that pesky bolt. Since it's down all the way some of the door structure may also block access.

Is the motor part bolted or riveted to door? If bolts, you might be able to unbolt the motor from the door. The other side of the motor bolts/screws to the "winder" (not sure what it's called) part. If you had crank windows, there would be a stem in there that attached to the crank handle. You may be able to use something to manually crank the window up.

Have a look at: https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/par..._related_parts/door_rear_glass_regulator.html
 
It has been a few years since I changed out a rear door window, or brought one home from the junkyard. The first thing to do is remove the rubber trim/glass wiper from the bottom edge of the movable glass, both inside and out. You now have more room to maneuver things about and you can see what is going on inside the door shell. If I recall correctly, with no power, or a broken regulator, unbolt everything from the door frame, and move the mechanisms off to one side, the glass should drop down. If at this point you are having no success, remove the smaller fixed glass, and the rubber C channel the movable glass rides in, and the movable glass can be pulled up and out of the door.
 
Saudade said:
Normally, you would roll up the window halfway and get access to that pesky bolt. Since it's down all the way some of the door structure may also block access.

Is the motor part bolted or riveted to door? If bolts, you might be able to unbolt the motor from the door. The other side of the motor bolts/screws to the "winder" (not sure what it's called) part. If you had crank windows, there would be a stem in there that attached to the crank handle. You may be able to use something to manually crank the window up.

Have a look at: https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/par..._related_parts/door_rear_glass_regulator.html
Click to expand...

Found ProjectDanH's excellent U-tube vid. on back doors (although he was only replacing the fixed 1/4-light (well that's what we call them) which confirms the glass has to be 1/2-way up to get at that bolt - but there was one little snippet that gives me a little hope, 'cos it seems I'd misunderstood the electric connections to the motor (i.e, when you're bypassing the switch completely). Then again I may be clutching at straws.

It's all bolts, no rivets, & I've detached the whole mechanism from the door once - but not only can't I remove the glass, I can't remove the motor, even when it's unbolted.

Thanks for that link but I found it singularly unhelpful because the same illustration appears for all years (although they changed in '97) & for manual/power windows.

Replacing the whole door is definitely the easy option although I don't like to give up and getting a complete door could be tricky as the trend here is to reduce doors to as many parts as poss. in the hope of selling them separately for 2 0r 3 times what they could ask for a complete door.
 
Tim_MN said:
It has been a few years since I changed out a rear door window, or brought one home from the junkyard. The first thing to do is remove the rubber trim/glass wiper from the bottom edge of the movable glass, both inside and out. You now have more room to maneuver things about and you can see what is going on inside the door shell. If I recall correctly, with no power, or a broken regulator, unbolt everything from the door frame, and move the mechanisms off to one side, the glass should drop down. If at this point you are having no success, remove the smaller fixed glass, and the rubber C channel the movable glass rides in, and the movable glass can be pulled up and out of the door.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your patience with this ridiculous situation.

The problem as I see it is there is no way of breaking down the glass/regulator/motor into its constituent parts because they will not move relative to each other & together they are too large (& unwieldy) to remove from the door. Not ready to admit defeat yet - but getting close, because I thought I must be missing something, but now I'm pretty certain I'm not.

Can't do anything now 'til Saturday (if I'm lucky) but, meanwhile, please keep the ideas coming.
 
Find a helper. Remove the rubber guide strip/drip seal from the window frame area. Have the helper hold the glass 1/2 way up. Access the single fastener that mates the glass to the mechanism. Once separated, the glass will come out by pulling up and maneuvering about. Removing the fixed quarter glass will give you lots of extra room. The regulator mechanism will come out the lower door by maneuvering and pulling out.
 
Last edited:
I did start to remove the fixed 1/4-light but decided it wasn't the time to do further dismantling with little chance of getting it all back together before having to leave it out in the street for a week. Encouraged by prospect of it actually helping will try that at the weekend but still not very optimistic because it all seems to rely on the glass moving relative to the rest of the assembly & I don't believe it will; that has been the problem all along.
 
Panic over; window's up; wasn't the motor; seems it was the switch, which only works one way: down! (& master switch for that window doesn't work at all).

Blame my imperfect understanding of the circuitry, because I thought the switch checked out OK.

Thanks to DanH for inspiring me to try another way to jump the motor.

Door's all buttoned up (just as well, 'cos wasn't going to pass inspection with no interior handle & it's due soon). Might replace the switch if I can find one for sensible money but, are the individual switches in the driver's panel replaceable? A RHD switch panel's not going to be (a) easy to find (b) cheap - &,of course, it might not be the switch.

Thanks for all your support/encouragement. Much happier now. :)
 
Neither of my rear windows work in my rhd and for the life of me I can't figure out why. Both my motors work fine when jumped and the switches seem to test correctly. Near as I can figure there is a module somewhere but as you know wiring diagrams are non existent for rhds.
 
Can't see why the power window electrics should be any different but had a look at the '97 & later diagram In my American Haynes manual & the colours are the same as my '98.

There is also a diagram with no year, so I'm guessing pre-'97, so tomorrow will try to see how that compares with my '96.
 
Nope, sorry, not only are nearly all the colours different but the diagram indicates the wires to the motor change colour somewhere in the harness, when they clearly don't.

Now I do have a British Haynes manual which may, or may not be different but not seen it for some time. If/when it turns up, I'll check the wiring diagrams to see if they're any help.
 
XJI6191 said:
Might replace the switch if I can find one for sensible money but, are the individual switches in the driver's panel replaceable? A RHD switch panel's not going to be (a) easy to find (b) cheap - &,of course, it might not be the switch.
Click to expand...

On my old 92 (and, technically, anything 84-96), the switches are individual and replaceable. Have done it a couple times in recent years.

On a 98 like yours, I'm not sure - they might have gone to mounting all of them on a circuit board (in which case you'd have to desolder the dead one and solder on a replacement. I'd have to have one in my hand (either LHD or RHD, I'm sure they're both built the same way) to know.

Does the RHD actually use a different part number, or did they just use the same exact part on the other door? Seems to me like it'd be cheaper to use the same master switch panel and just change the RF door panel on the RHD to accept it, but what do I know? I'm an engineer and I try to make the world around me conform to logic and common sense... :looser:
 
Considering they engineered an entirely different radiator for rhd when a lhd one will work just fine if you use lhd tranny cooler lines anything is possible. I know we have a completely different fuse panel than any listed on line or in repair manuals.
 
Rob Mayercik said:
On a 98 like yours, I'm not sure - they might have gone to mounting all of them on a circuit board (in which case you'd have to desolder the dead one and solder on a replacement. I'd have to have one in my hand (either LHD or RHD, I'm sure they're both built the same way) to know.
Click to expand...

I've since watched another Project DanH U-tube vid on repairing driver's door master switch panels, they have a printed circuit board & degrading solder joints are the root cause of the problem. While I might tackle the disassembly, I'm not brave enough to take a soldering iron to a printed circuit board.

Rob Mayercik said:
Does the RHD actually use a different part number, or did they just use the same exact part on the other door? Seems to me like it'd be cheaper to use the same master switch panel and just change the RF door panel on the RHD to accept it, but what do I know? I'm an engineer and I try to make the world around me conform to logic and common sense... :looser:
Click to expand...

From that same vid I've learned that only the bezel seems to be handed, although, of course, the front door switches are transposed - but I could live with that.

My father was an engineer so I understand your ideals - & frustrations, especially working on Jeeps ;)

On the subject of logic - or lack thereof, why does the LHD radiator have the cooler lines on the wrong side?

That neatly segs into UncleW's contribution: thanks for the heads up on fuse boards, I must've been lucky enough not to have noticed any differences that I couldn't put down to changes between years.

Completing the circle, the only other component in the power window (other than switch & motor) is the window lock which might be your problem: there's a v. simple hack to bypass it.
 
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