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Replacing middle (crossmember) exhaust hanger

The rubber exhaust hanger insert might sag, but I've found that the problem is actually the main transmission mount. When it gets old, it can shrivel up and lower the transmission and the exhaust support by over 1". Replace the transmission mount and your exhaust will no longer rattle on the crossmember.

Cherokee_transmission_mount_comparison.jpg
 
I figure you can pick a mild steel rod, bend it to fit, and then weld it or clamp it to the pipe. Shouldn't be overly difficult.

Dynomax #36412 is what I used although for some reason it was a little too short, so I welded a small piece of round stock to it.....

I now have a similar issue with the exhaust pipe hitting the crossmember. Replaced the tranny mount & motor mounts, rubber hanger and it's better than before but still quite close.

I might look into fabbing my own bracket with a replaceable bushing.....
 
Here is the bracket and hanger for later models... Part# 52058882

http://www.factorychryslerparts.com...KET--Transmission-Suppo/4450379/52058882.html!
Just a side note on this... NO ONE BUY FROM FACTORYCHRYSLERPARTS! I and several others got screwed by them, in my case I ordered something, they claimed they had it in stock, predicted my order shipping several days later, weeks later (I am a patient man when it comes to parts I don't really need yet) I tried to get ahold of them via email to ask where my parts were, no answer. Tried calling, no answer. Tried emailing again and calling again, no answer. Requested my money back, no answer. Called my bank and told them to reverse the charges, they did. Still haven't heard back from factorychryslerparts.

I can't find the round-hole rubber bushing alone anywhere either. I tried, but it seems like unobtainium.
 
Reviving an old thread.....

On the late models, the bushing isn't available separately and the entire bracket & bushing is about $100 give or take from the dealer.....

I used DEA A5208 to replace the worn bushing. One has to remove the bracket, drill out the rivets that secure the bushing to it, drill out those holes for 1/4" bolts, and "drill" out the bushing to allow the hanger to fit inside the bushing. I used a 3/8" leather punch in a drill press lubed up with dishwashing soap. Worked well. The A5208 bushing had a crecent shaped hole and I was using the Dynomax/Walker 36412 clamp with 1/2" bent rod. I've since made my own equivalent of the Dynomax/Walker unit.

One issue I discovered is that the A5208 has variations. The first one I used fit inside the "cage" perfectly. The second one I used was smaller than a perfect fit but will work......

The pics of the clamps- Dynomax? Walker left, mine on right. I gusseted the clamp for strength...

281613d1452555025t-crossmember-exhaust-isolator-fix-crossmember-exhaust-isolator-002.jpg


281614d1452555025t-crossmember-exhaust-isolator-fix-crossmember-exhaust-isolator-004.jpg


281615d1452555025t-crossmember-exhaust-isolator-fix-crossmember-exhaust-isolator-006.jpg


281797d1452820744t-crossmember-exhaust-isolator-fix-crossmember-exhaust-isolator-001.jpg


281798d1452820744t-crossmember-exhaust-isolator-fix-crossmember-exhaust-isolator-002.jpg
 
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