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Another XJ ride/lift advice post

Miamitj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
FL
Si i didn't find a post on my request elsewhere but I know it's been discussed many times so here I go anyway ...

Hey everyone,

It's been about 12 years since I listed an XJ and need some advice.

I just got my hands on a 92 Cherokee that mint.* I plan on just using it as a cruiser with my 16yo son driving it to school here and there.* It will see very little to almost no offroading - I have other Jeeps for that.

I'm looking to lift and would love to get the largest tire i can in it without cutting up the fender.* My list important quality is ride and stability.* I will not be working this Jeep, just want it to ride beautifully and look even nicer.

Back on the day RE and OME were the go to manufacturer.* Who should I be looking at now for a lift with a great ride?* Recommendations!

​​​​​​​Thanks!
 
Emu and Clayton off-road have nice ridding springs also if you do some bilstein 5100’s that will help the ride as well 4.5 longarm on 31’s (I originally had road extremely well and without cutting or trimming it road looked good imo.


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This depends a lot on your budget. A long arm will ride the best and will be more stable, but is much more money. If you are looking to go with the tallest tire without cutting, I bet that using a long-arm with 265/75-16 tires can clear without cutting, especially on an older XJ which I have read has more front tire clearance than the late model XJ. This size tire is the same height as a 32" tire.

Go with a wheel that has no less than 4.25" backspace. 4.5" backspace 16" tall rims are readily available. The larger backspace minimizes how far the front tire sweeps as the steering wheel is turned, thus making it harder for the tire to hit the back of the front fender as the tire is turned while the suspension is compressed. A long arm will also have adjustable length, allowing the front axle to be positioned slightly further forward, perhaps as much as 1/4" which will further help with clearance. If you go with that tire size, and 4" lift makes sense.

One thought comes to mind - If you are set on not cutting the XJ at all, then a long arm is out of the question because its necessary to cut off the lower control arm mounts on the frame.
 
This depends a lot on your budget. A long arm will ride the best and will be more stable, but is much more money. If you are looking to go with the tallest tire without cutting, I bet that using a long-arm with 265/75-16 tires can clear without cutting, especially on an older XJ which I have read has more front tire clearance than the late model XJ. This size tire is the same height as a 32" tire.

Go with a wheel that has no less than 4.25" backspace. 4.5" backspace 16" tall rims are readily available. The larger backspace minimizes how far the front tire sweeps as the steering wheel is turned, thus making it harder for the tire to hit the back of the front fender as the tire is turned while the suspension is compressed. A long arm will also have adjustable length, allowing the front axle to be positioned slightly further forward, perhaps as much as 1/4" which will further help with clearance. If you go with that tire size, and 4" lift makes sense.

One thought comes to mind - If you are set on not cutting the XJ at all, then a long arm is out of the question because its necessary to cut off the lower control arm mounts on the frame.

Thank you. This is what I was looking for.

What about some of the short arm kits like the RE super ride?
 
My experience is limited. I've only had one XJ, and its always had a long-arm. I wouldn't think twice about cutting off the lower control arm mounts. If you go short-arm, one option might be to go with control arm mount drops. These adapters drop the control arm mounting points to help preserve control arm geometry on a lifted XJ. Get control arms that have quality bushings and adjustable length. I'm not sure if RE qualifies here.

One other thing to consider is driveline geometry with a lift. If you go with 4"+ lift, an SYE for the rear driveshaft is typically recommended. A drop transmission mount is another option when going with a 4"+ lift. If you stick with 3" lift and 31" tires, then could skip the SYE and drop transmission mount. Could probably skip the control arm drop brackets too. Lower will be more stable. Should still look good.
 
Short arm paired with a lift tall than 1" equals a shitty ride no matter what kinda cool marketing name it has.

My money be on 3", control arm drop brackets and tuned shocks with post eliminator and reworked lower mount.

BoostWorks rear towers. Shackle relocation boxes, stock leaf springs or crown hd leafs.
Springs tuned to sit slightly taller than front.

I would build around a front that is held to a stict 3" max not 3.5 not 4".


You could also make this happen with zero lift and reworked shock mounts to get into tuned shocks.


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When my xj was on 31s with iro 3 link, cloak 3.5 coils, xj,xj bastard pack, and shit shocks it rode great. It needed real shocks, but the trail ability, interstate ability, and comfort were impressive.

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I agree. The iron rock 3 link works very well even with shit shocks.

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I think you need to determine if you want a Mall Crawler (ie large tires and lift) or a daily runner, but some amount of lift.
I am liking my 2" pieced together lift. DD and highway, with improved offroad capabilities. So, in that department, 2-3 inch lift and short arms.
Both my 2" and 4.5" lifts are pieced together. If I went with a kit, I'd look at OME from DPG, or one of his hybrids kits. RE and IRO kit for short arms.
On a future build, I went with Ironmans Long arm on the front. Others on my list were Stinky Fabs, IRO and possibly Cav Fab. Possibly Dirtbound. IRO and Ironman are min 3.5 lift.
I'm not sure what for shocks. I have Bilstien 5100's on the 4.5 lift. A bit stiff for me and highway use. I have KYB Monomax on the 2" front. Stiff too. Maybe a bit less than the Bilstiens.
The 2" is on 31's, and thin ones. I think 265-70-R16's. The 4.5 is on 32's. I forget the metric they are. But R17's.
I'd also look at the options on rear leaf springs availability and what lift you intend. Also, what quality. My thoughts are OME ( I have the 3.5" leafs for my next build). RE, and I'd check out the IRO 3.5" if you intend that lift.
Also, check into re-gearing the axles for tire sizes.
 
Short arm paired with a lift tall than 1" equals a shitty ride no matter what kinda cool marketing name it has.

The ride quality of a good brand name 3 inch short arm lift is not that objectionable. It not the same as stock, but it isn't dumptruck like unless the shocks are shopping mall grade parts.

I have the RE Super Ride 3.5" lift on my blue 2000, and that XJ was my daily driver and off-road trail rig for several years. I installed DoetschTech DT3000 shocks. I drove it 1,267 miles to Moab Utah for the Fall Fling and drove it 1,267 miles back home several times. Installing control arm drop brackets and boosting the lift to 5.5 inches did improve both the pavement ride and the 4x4 trail performance. I daily drive this XJ with 5.5" of lift all summer, and have driven it to Moab for Fall Fling.

A 1998 is my current daily driver, and it has a 3 inch lift with short control arms. It rides nice with Bilstein 4600 shocks.
 
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What caused the need to boost 5.5"


If i was on short arms id search out lighter valved shocks.

Im not sure why the 3.5" lift minimum i was at 2" and my upper arm is higher than most. I did have to beat the floor pan in to clear but that shouldn't be an issue withbmost 3 links because the are an 1" lower or so were the mount.


The simple fact is short arms are receiving the brunt of road forces transmitted from the tires.
A set of shocks could be valved for this but that same would be better invested in good geometry that sends road forces through the shocks

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I have plenty of room everywhere with the iro on 3.5 inches. Could easily drop an inch.

The reason I went long arm originally was price... I figured up a decent set of short arms with a upgraded crossmember. Added the cost of drop brackets because I knew I would eventually go taller. Then I waited for a sale and found a long arm for basically the same...

With that said I only liked at short and with flex joints on at least 1 side...

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I got my iro arms for like $690 if memory serves me...
That's a deal that will probably never be beat.... new kit ( basically beta testing) plus black friday...

They always have great black friday deals which are only a month away

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I got my iro arms for like $690 if memory serves me...
That's a deal that will probably never be beat.... new kit ( basically beta testing) plus black friday...

They always have great black friday deals which are only a month away

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I think it was like $1200 a year ago. Prices have increased on a lot of stuff. Their short arm was like $900.

You lifting to only 2" for a long arm makes me wonder. There was a RC long arm F/S at Winterfest for like $400 or so, used. The guy went with the IRO. Might have been interesting on my present build.
 
960 as of right now on the 3 link compared to 410 on adjustable short arms.... plus I would want an upgraded crossmember...I would imagine 200 to 400 for that

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960 as of right now on the 3 link compared to 410 on adjustable short arms.... plus I would want an upgraded crossmember...I would imagine 200 to 400 for that

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I was comparing the 'premium' kits. Sort of apples to apples. Yes, just adjustable short arms about $400 to $500. I'm more, what will a full lift cost Short Arm vs Long Arm. I remember my Ironman being $1800 shipped about a year back. That is for the front only and no springs or shocks.
 
2" paired with longer arms equals badass. Also running arms raised on axle end.

My jeep due to how well it rides has started a fire storm of local jeepers building on xjs and wjs at a price point thousands less than utv's

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The simple fact is short arms are receiving the brunt of road forces transmitted from the tires.

I don't disagree about the physics, but it isn't the throat punch alluded to.
 
Ill agree maybe not a throat punch.
I was on short arms at 2" ride wasnt horrible was bearable

Going to 32" arms on 2" with axle side brackets raised put my arms flat like factory on the first test ride I quickly realized that bearable intantly turned into fun i want more and more more and more and well it doesn't appear be stopping

What i do know is side by side comparison to a bone stock xj mine rides steers and handles better even with 5" lift and 35s

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