• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Rear Suspension Issues

Already did that. 4" bumpstop, 1.5" clearance to plate mount w/o any spacers.


Well, at 3.5" I wouldn't even use those plates.......


I'm @ 3.75"- 4" of lift on mine, running 32" tires on 17" moabs....and I do have an extended bumpstop up top, but still no plate, just the stock configuration.....


,
 
Well, at 3.5" I wouldn't even use those plates.......


I'm @ 3.75"- 4" of lift on mine, running 32" tires on 17" moabs....and I do have an extended bumpstop up top, but still no plate, just the stock configuration.....


,
Right on! 3.5"/33s/trimmed fenders with Rusty's steel. Thanks.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
 
The factory bumper bolts are very likely hitting the shackle or spring eye, they are all trimmed flush to head of the weld nut on my XJ. The leaf spring eye bolts are installed incorrectly, the threads should be pointing out.

Bumpstop length is determined by flexing the suspension until the tires make unwanted contact. The bump stop plates on your axle will probably make your bump stops somewhat custom and they will likely need to be shorter than extended bump stops using the stock locations/configuration.


An add-a-leaf will be the simplest and lowest cost method to add some load capacity and some additional rear suspension lift.


My 2000 is more or less level with all my off-road gear, bumpers and skid plates, tools, and spare parts.



.
orig.jpg


.
standard.jpg
 
Last edited:
New stops, one where there was none. Felt good on the street, now to flex, see about bolt interference, and get it on the trail with my usual load.
Thanks for the guidance folks, at least I'm on track now. I think the OME springs are soft for comfort, and it does ride smooth, but I might want a more HD ride. One thing at a time.
f21990fb6da4013979b3158c00ce559d.jpg
e347354bd7ba8539f42abadcab0809f2.jpg
8df25b8575d033281adac0616fe9194c.jpg


Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
 
One more. Stance appearance is due to front fenders cutout more than rear I'd say.
17c10364e68625480b9d697665c35936.jpg


Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
 
People think mines lifted like 6" due to front fender height.

In the rear im not running bump stops at all.
I am bumped in the front to keep my track bar out of tge oil pan.

Glad your on track.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
What happened to the pic in the other thread and notice of the shackle mount being damaged? No concern?


Evan03, how would a flat (worn) spring cause a smoother ride??? That seems peculiar to me... is the argument is that its softer since its worn?
I'd think that it has lost its "spring" since they don't return to normal U shape. It'd have to be able to reverse arch to even dampen anything? I'd argue its a much worse ride and akin to driving with a board as a spring. His setup worse off than yours, since you have shackles and srbs and mainly because you have bad ass Fox shocks doing the grunt work

I vote both of you change them worn out springs! XD
 
Last edited:
There's no difference in stiffness of a new or fatigued metal spring unless the fatigued spring is close to fatigue failure, or if its developed a crack (and therefore is again close to failure). The yield load where the spring takes a new set could go up or down though. Most likely reason for a softer ride with the fatigued spring is that the shackle angle will be greater for the flat spring, and this reduces the effective spring rate.
 
The "smoother ride" is not related to metal fatigue which is small cracks that occur just before catastrophic failure and separation of the metal, it is due to geometry. A saggy ( not fatigued ) leaf spring is longer than a similar not sagged leaf spring and the shackle angle is less upright. The closer the shackle is to a vertical angle, the higher the effective leaf spring rate. When the shackle is laid back at an angle, it actually becomes a moving link with the spring, and the spring ride will feel softer.
 
What happened to the pic in the other thread and notice of the shackle mount being damaged? No concern?

I vote both of you change them worn out springs! XD

I've spent 3 days on a recovery of a Tacoma high in the Ruby Mtns of Nevada. Just checking back in.

I'm not clear on the damaged shackle mount. I haven't removed any pics and don't even know which one was referenced. Also have noticed nothing indicating a damaged mount. Maybe more pictures are in order (but hopefully not of the HUGE variety in this thread.

Met a great bunch of folks during today's recovery. Gang out of Elko that are available day or night, without charge, just notify with details on their FB page and they come out in droves with killer 4x4s.
I might pick their brains and ask them to look over my setup in person for diagnosis and resolution. Not giving up here tho'.

Getting dang cold here suddenly so it's shop heater season.. yuk. 6* tonight with -20 wind chill. Got that Toyota out just in time (it was at close to 10k elevation).
 
So a saggy, or dead flat in this case, isn't "softer" than that of a properly set up rear suspension- with U shaped Leaf packs and 45* shackles is what we are agreeing on ya?
 
Last edited:
What happened to the pic in the other thread and notice of the shackle mount being damaged? No concern?

I vote both of you change them worn out springs! XD

I've spent 3 days on a recovery of a Tacoma high in the Ruby Mtns of Nevada. Just checking back in.

I'm not clear on the damaged shackle mount. I haven't removed any pics and don't even know which one was referenced. Also have noticed nothing indicating a damaged mount. Maybe more pictures are in order (but hopefully not of the HUGE variety in this thread.

Met a great bunch of folks during today's recovery. Gang out of Elko that are available day or night, without charge, just notify with details on their FB page and they come out in droves with killer 4x4s.
I might pick their brains and ask them to look over my setup in person for diagnosis and resolution. Not giving up here tho'.

Getting dang cold here suddenly so it's shop heater season.. yuk. 6* tonight with -20 wind chill. Got that Toyota out just in time (it was at close to 10k elevation).
 
Hmm.. I'll look again but need a 'good' one to compare. Maybe another pic from the side will help?

Thanks.
 
Hmm.. I'll look again but need a 'good' one to compare. Maybe another pic from the side will help?

Thanks.

A side pic might help. The shackle box outboard wall flares open towards the back of the box, but its parallel to the unibody rail starting from the bolt hole and going to the front of the box. Yours looks pretty taco'ed, but it could be he photo angle and fish-eye exposure.
 
I see it making a Z shape... so that'd be a hellova fish eye!
 
Ok, shackle box is fine. But I'm finding marks on frame, body each side. Longer or boomerang shackle the fix?
 
Back
Top