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**1992 to 1996 Brake Booster Swap (Parts List)**

trekfuel80

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Lilburn, Georgia
I was putting a 1996 booster on my 1992, and it took me a good hour and a half at Advanced Auto Parts, to get all of the correct fittings. It all fits perfectly now, so I figured I would give you the parts list to help you out, and speed the process up. O Yeah, you do have to switch the Master Cylinder too. I thought at first I wouldn't have to, but turns out i had to, or my airbox wouldn't fit.

(2) Steel Lines (Part # BL-312) – “BRAKE LINE 3/16 x 12”
(1) Brake Adapter (Part # 327819.1) – “BRASS 3/16FTUBE 5/16TUB”
(1) Brake Adapter (Part # 327818.1) – “BRASS 3/16F TUBE ¼ TU”
(1) Brake Adapter (Part # 327857.1) – “BRASS 3/16IF TO M12-1.0”
(1) Brake Adapter (Part # 327850.1) – “BRASS 3/16IF TO M10-1.0”
(1) Brake Adapter (Part # 327841.1) – “BRASS 7/16-24 TO ¼ TU”
 
Re: Let Me Know What You Think.

trekfuel80 said:
Let Me Know What You Think.

I will be doing this shortly, and what I think is I would like a big picture with all fittings pointed out. :laugh3:

That would really help me (a relative brake novice) understand what i am looking at.

btw, how much did all these fittings cost you?

-jm
 
Hey I have heard of this before and was wondering how much this really helped you out. I know it would help, but how much I would like to know.
 
I understand that the 1995 uses the same booster, I was just letting you all know what exactly I swapped. The total (with out the booster, and master cylinder) was about $24.00. That's including two bottles of brake fluid, and gasket sealer. I'll have a picture up within the next day. It will be of the new booster and master cylinder. I noticed a huge difference in braking power, after the switch. I used to have to push the pedal about 4-6 inches to lock the wheels up (if I even could), but now, it only requires about 1-2 inches (I did not change the brake pads either). I highly recommend this swap, it took about 2-3 hours total to complete this, after having all the necessary parts. But it brakes smoother, and is more reliable. You will have to bleed the brakes, if you didn't know that.
 
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One mroe thing, you will also need to modify the pedal rod to still use your older style brake lamp switch, here is a photo of the modification I did, not hard at all with a Dremil and attention to detail:

Late Pedal Rod:
booster11.jpg


Early Pedal Rod:
booster12.jpg


Basically you have to grind a flat spot onto the newer rod like the old one. You also need to ream out the hole a bit (1/16" or so). Then just put the old brake switch on and you're good.

Finished Pic (with Switch):
booster13.jpg
 
Did you put a newer style brake lamp switch in then?

That is what the dirlling and grining is for. It was easier to do that than fab something for a newer switch because I did not want to remove my cruise control stuff (not that it works anyway!).

Sequoia
 
No, I didn't put any kind of switch in, I just pulled the '92 booster and M.S., then went to the store, got the fittings, and slid the '96 booster and M.S. in. bolted right up and fit right in to the brake pedal. I don't have cruise control anyways.
 
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