sye - 2'' Tcase drop

ChandlerXJ · Jul 30, 2005

I'm going with a 4.5'' RE or Rusty's Full packs, and with the rusty's i may or may not need a SYE, but more likely yes... could I drop the T case 2 inches until i have the $$ for the SYE? is there any SYE alternatives until I have the $$

cracker · Jul 30, 2005

Don't drop the TC. At 2" you will need to drop the crossmember. It is not worth your time. Just get the SYE.

Use the SEARCH button. Advanced Adapters and PORC have cost effective SYE available. You WILL need a new driveshaft.

SEARCH on using a front drive shaft as a rear drive shaft. You can get the fronts cheap and it should work fine with 4.5" lift.

ChandlerXJ · Jul 30, 2005

so what would be the easiest, cheapest way to work the 4.5'' lift

dsgray16 · Jul 30, 2005

You really shouldnt need an SYE at 4.5 inches, i know i didnt. Through dsome spacers in between the crossmember and the body and call it done

Kejtar · Jul 30, 2005

dsgray16 said:
You really shouldnt need an SYE at 4.5 inches, i know i didnt. Through dsome spacers in between the crossmember and the body and call it done

:twak: the fact that you didn't need it doesn't mean that he shouldn't need it. It all comes down to each jeep being unique.

Anyways getting back to the original question: what year is your jeep? More recent models (96+) seem to be more prone to vibes as they have different output on the tailcone on the tcase.
You can try a 1" drop but I would not recommend going more then 1". If you do go with the tcase drop you will have to still address the issue of angles at the axle, and you will potentially have to address problem with there not being enough engagement on the splines on the output shaft of the tcase to the driveshaft.

So what I'm getting at: if you put in 4.5" lift hope for the best and expect the worst (best = no vibes, just a lengthened driveshaft; worst = sye).

xjj33p3r · Jul 30, 2005

JB conversions sells the cheapest SYE I've seen around, and that's what I run on my jeep. 32 spline output shaft is what sold me

St3mpy · Jul 30, 2005

How much was it? PORC is $169 shipped. I'm a high school student that's about to be in the need of a sye, so every penny counts.

XJ_ranger · Jul 31, 2005

ChandlerXJ said:
so what would be the easiest, cheapest way to work the 4.5'' lift

dont do a 4.5

run a 3" and a sawzall...

XJ_ranger · Jul 31, 2005

xjj33p3r said:
JB conversions sells the cheapest SYE I've seen around, and that's what I run on my jeep. 32 spline output shaft is what sold me

AA, JB conversions and PORC are all 32 spline outputs - that is the largest shaft/spline count that Spicer makes a CV yoke for...

cracker · Jul 31, 2005

dsgray16 said:
You really shouldnt need an SYE at 4.5 inches, i know i didnt.

Lucky bastard! Most don't get off that easy.

dsgray16 said:
Through dsome spacers in between the crossmember and the body and call it done

Great. Spend all that money on the lift for more clearance and then reduce the clearance. You might as well put the 3" lift on it then.

St3mpy said:
How much was it? PORC is $169 shipped. I'm a high school student that's about to be in the need of a sye, so every penny counts.

I think the PORC is the cheapest. Get a XJ front drive shaft (I got mine for $20 used) and use it on the rear. That means after freight (with the PORC SYE) you are in $200 if you find a cheap used front drive shaft. A week working at Burger King should cover that.

I would rather spend the $200 and significantly increases the strength of the transfer case (which MOST people do not realize) than risk vibes that could wear out the pinion bearing and other things.

fom_ska · Jul 31, 2005

how does a front d-shaft stand up compared to a rear d-shaft?

cracker · Jul 31, 2005

fom_ska said:
how does a front d-shaft stand up compared to a rear d-shaft?

It seems to be fine. It runs on the same size U-Joints as the rear (1310).

Don't forget there are a couple of different driveshaft sizes out there (stick vs. auto). You'll need the longer one.

XJ_ranger · Jul 31, 2005

cracker said:
It seems to be fine. It runs on the same size U-Joints as the rear (1310).

Don't forget there are a couple of different driveshaft sizes out there (stick vs. auto). You'll need the longer one.

the auto is the longer one...

to corect some mis-information:

The auto tranny front drivesahft measures about 33" static with a 3" slip JOINT
the ax-15 exipied XJ's have a 30" Static front shaft with a 3" slip joint

if you have an auto, you can run a front shaft in the rear from another auto - where with a maunal, you have to run something like a 35" front shaft (what mine ended up at - Ford 9" pinion is same length from tube center as a d35)

so if you have an ax-15, a ford explorer front shaft is a much better option

jeepinandy · Jul 31, 2005

If he were to drop the t-case 2" wouldnt that kill the front drive shaft angle? I do know it would kill ground clearance..

sye - 2'' Tcase drop

ChandlerXJ

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