Engine lift points w/ ARP head bolts

One thing I failed to consider when opting to go with ARP head bolts is that I'd lose the extremely-handy driver-side studs for hoisting the engine for reinstallation. I'm also trying to get the entire engine fully assembled (manifolds, accessories, and all, minus the AC compressor) before dropping it in given that I'm running Brown Dog mounts and brackets at this point. Pre-installing accessories is somewhat negotiable, but I absolutely refuse to install the manifolds once the engine is back in the car due to the wretched pain in the ass it always is (and the numerous exhaust leaks I've suffered as a result).

Anyone have any recommendations on this? Should I just replace bolts 11 and 14 (driver-side front and rear) with OEM bolts that have the studs?

Thanks in advance.

When building a 4.6 stroker, I questioned Russ P. about this problem.
I had originally wanted to use ARP head bolts but he suggested saving money by using a new set of stock head bolts, saying it was overkill for my application.
I'm not running a high compression ratio.
Not sure how to lift the engine with the ARP bolts, using the front and rear exhaust manifold bolts, to attach the hoist's chain, seemed too risky.

Indeed. We ran 12:1 on 4643 with stock head bolts without a problem.