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2dr XJ, Passenger Window/Motor rolls down, will not roll up.

MG2000XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Hi there, been a while since I logged in.

Currently working on addressing my inability ro roll up my passenger side window in my 2000 2 door. The switches started periodically working a couple years ago and this past Fall/Winter I lost the ability to get the window back up. It would roll down as normal and then I'd have to play with the passenger and drivers switches to get it back up, usually while pushing the window up manually.

I had replaced the passenger window myself a year or so ago after someone knocked it out and stole stuff. Seemed to have worked fine after that.

I've tested the motor by itself and it will motor down but the factory switched will not activate the up direct of the motor.

I've read about the master switch and child locks causing problems and I had unfortunately destroyed my passenger switch panel while trying to remove the button covers to look at the soldered connections. Now that the switch is broken apart and opened up, the soldered connections look great... :twak:

I do not own voltmeter to test the connections, that's probably the next step. The regulator looks fine and I have no reason to suspect the regulator itself has failed but you never know.

Anything I haven't thought of here? Considering picking up a factory motor to try out.

Anyone have two door panels with cranks te want to sell?!

Thanks!
 
Could also be a broken wire. When we bought our XJ the driver’s side rear window wouldn’t go down. I assumed it was the motor. Turned out it was a broken wire in the loom between the driver’s door and vehicle. If I were you I’d purchase/borrow a volt meter and make sure you’re getting 12 and ground to the motor when you press the switch. If you are you have a bad motor.
 
Could also be a broken wire. When we bought our XJ the driver’s side rear window wouldn’t go down. I assumed it was the motor. Turned out it was a broken wire in the loom between the driver’s door and vehicle. If I were you I’d purchase/borrow a volt meter and make sure you’re getting 12 and ground to the motor when you press the switch. If you are you have a bad motor.

I will grab a voltmeter on my way home this eveinng and check, should be able to eliminate or identify the motor as the issue.

I'm betting dollars to donuts the issue is broken solder joints in the driver's door window switch, but it could also be the passenger window switch.

Unfortunately I broke the passenger switch when trying to open it up, the pressed on switch caps were impossibel to remove without breaking them and then, of course, all the soldered joints looked good. Need to find a replacement passenger door switch. You can't check the soldered points without pullin goff the switch caps to open up the master switch. I don't want to break another perfectly good switch if I don't have to. Any suggestions?

While on that subject, does anyone know the difference between passenger door swtich part # 56009506ac and #56009451ac. Is the 9506ac specific to 2 door XJs? That's what came out of mine but they are impossible to find unless you buy used. OEM replacements cost the same but the part number tends to be 9451ac. Will that work in a 2 door?
 
IIRC the 2 door passenger switch is missing 2 relays that a 4 door passenger switch would have. so in a nutshell a 4 door switch should work, it just has extra hardware that isn't going to be used.


As for taking the switches apart, you have the pop the caps off of the switches in order to get it apart. I find it easiest to use a flat head under the edge of the cap and pry up.
 
IIRC the 2 door passenger switch is missing 2 relays that a 4 door passenger switch would have. so in a nutshell a 4 door switch should work, it just has extra hardware that isn't going to be used.


As for taking the switches apart, you have the pop the caps off of the switches in order to get it apart. I find it easiest to use a flat head under the edge of the cap and pry up.

Great info, easier to find the 4 door switches, should work no problem.

I tried the flathead and it broke both of them. The force required to pop them off was a little aggressive. I won't force them this round... The caps are probably easily sources new or used but if you strip off the little plastic tooth on the clear switch then you're SOL without gluing them back on.

Thanks guys!
 
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I'm betting if you broke the clear plastic pieces you could probably take the switch apart off, clean the contacts and use parts from a donor switch to fix it.
 
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