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What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

Got the shift kit put in the zj. Had a broken accumulator spring but got replaced with the kit. Feels good for most part but not impressed with the 1-2 shift. Went with the crisp setting and it's a pretty soft shift. If the valve body ever comes out again. I'll be drilling that out bigger.

Red Jeep is about ready to go back under the knife for tons.
 
time2getdirty said:
Derp. Never powder threads. It’s amazing what even a mm of coating does to thread tolerances.
Click to expand...

Didn't coat the threads. It was the face of the thread insert that the jam nut was tightened against. The powder coat was smooth enough that the jam nut was working loose with just a little vibration, even though it was very tight.
 
SolarBell said:
Didn't coat the threads. It was the face of the thread insert that the jam nut was tightened against. The powder coat was smooth enough that the jam nut was working loose with just a little vibration, even though it was very tight.
Click to expand...

Tackity tack tack tack.
 
in4aride said:
Tackity tack tack tack.
Click to expand...



Jam nuts are not as simple as installing the arms in the mounts and then using a typical 8-10 inch handled wrench to torque the jam nuts . If that's how these are being done it's simply a lack of proper torque . The jam nuts on my control arms require me to fix the arms and joints so they don't move after centering the joint in their clevice then taking a 5ft cheater bar to the jam nuts .
 
It has begun...

31007571507_dee04d2cc2_c.jpg
 
I pushed my rear axle back about 2 inches further than I was originally planning so as to get the rear tires even or just A hair past rear bumper for departure this also gives a nice round figure of 120 wb ...The issue is I had already final welded the lower tabs on and this pulls the strut back which clearance is not an issue but I was wonder if having the joints misaligned like this is a problem for the mounts...keep in mind everything clears nothing binds . I could just cut the mounts off the truss and move them forward accordingly to set them where they started, but I don't want to if it's not an issue .

My front is sitting about 1 inch higher than I will probably run it but the control arm angle is just under 10 degrees where it sits so it will be even lower . Wish the front was like the rear sitting at about 7 degrees , but that's life .
 
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IMG_20181120_29521.jpg

IMG_20181120_15321.jpg

These don't resize very well but the mounts run parallel with the axle and are miubred same at the tower the uniball is doing it's misalignment duty only when the axle swings forward or back and since it's mostly droop the big misalignment is going forward so at full droop the strut is now hanging dead center . The first pic is very poor but you can see the artec logo vehi d the strut because the strut is now 2 inches offset to the rear so with both upper and lower mounts as they are it purs some angle in them at shock foot and top cap ...I did not mount these with shock angle forward and back since my up travel is not muck so the arms never really break parallel during up travel so I did not see a need for the fancy angling back of the mounts to meet the arc of the control arms during suspension cycle.

And yes those lower tabs are 3/8ths thick ballistic tabs...you know I would not use moderation and stop at 1/4 inch.
 
Basically what my concern is does this misalignment somehow stress the mounting bolt ? other than the bolt the actual mounts are not the concern they are not going anywhere .
 
Finally installed my Montana Fab Override Switch.
Shift%20Selector-XL.jpg
 
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so i have a few low buck repairs done to my heap. used the Iron Rock steering box brace and spacer. the brace is an honest 1/4 in thick steel. and a better than i had steering box from u pull n pay. next up two tires for the front and the tie rod for the stock steering from IRO should solidify things. then next up from there will be lower control arms. beating death wobble can be a handful sometimes. the bottom of the frame rail at the steering box is cracked but am not welding it for now. and it prolly needs a steering stabilizer too
but i want to focus on the control arms and then ball joints and wheel bearings if need be. and 2 new front tires should help too.i have the rocky road outfitters track bar with rebuildable bushing and replaceable tie rod end, seemed a good deal for 108 bux. and rusty's coils....i really like them. the repairing and building go on forever it sems:us:
 
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