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knuckle to knuckle tie rod and drag link

etaniyani

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Santa Monica
Hey everyone, I actually just finished building a new drag link to match up with a tie rod i had on for couple months. The tie rod is good, but I dont like the drag link design, and there is too much play in the system. So i'm going to make a new tie rod knuckle to knuckle and a drag link. The tie rod will be on the bottom of the knuckle and the drag link ontop. My question is, besides the sway bar link brackets and the trackbar bolt, does the tie rod interfere with anything else? Such as the diff cover? thanks for the input. I'll probably but using 1 1/4" tubing, either 1/4" or 5/16" DOM tubing.
 
etaniyani said:
Hey everyone, I actually just finished building a new drag link to match up with a tie rod i had on for couple months. The tie rod is good, but I dont like the drag link design, and there is too much play in the system. So i'm going to make a new tie rod knuckle to knuckle and a drag link. The tie rod will be on the bottom of the knuckle and the drag link ontop. My question is, besides the sway bar link brackets and the trackbar bolt, does the tie rod interfere with anything else? Such as the diff cover? thanks for the input. I'll probably but using 1 1/4" tubing, either 1/4" or 5/16" DOM tubing.

Make sure you use hi-misalignment spacers on the draglink or it won't turn so well when it's flexed.
 
yeah..
the TR will likely hit alot of stuff at full lock..
torch, plasma and/or grinder is needed...

pictured is my otk 1.5" dom steering..

2371950170048078817dpMant_ph.jpg



541527878ahnAiS_ph.jpg



had to trim bottom of the coil perches alot, at full lock the tr still contacts the cover.. but its almost to full lock so the turning radius didn't suffer much-- you won't notice it after a few days of driving..
i meant TR..edit
 
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My knuckle to knuckle tie rod was hitting lots of things. I used 1.5" solid bar stock, thank god... I had to grind quite a bit both the coil buckets and the rod itself.
It hit both buckets, the pumpkin and the track bar. It's fine now. OTK is the way to go.

Also: Make your passenger side knuckle "double shear" if you plan on bolting both the drag link and tie rod ON TOP of the knuckle using heims. A bolt alone isn't strong enough to hold both heims OTK single shear.
... Or just put the new tie rod under the knuckle (no 2shear bracket necessary), but you loose 3" of clearance. It took me about an hour to make my pass. side knuckle double shear... just watch it doesn't interfere with your disc or wheel!!!!!!

If I could do it again, I wouldn't go over to the knuckle with the drag link, I'd weld 2 beefy tabs onto the tie rod and mount it there.
Keeps your angles the same.
 
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barillms said:
Make your passenger side knuckle "double shear" if you plan on bolting both the drag link and tie rod ON TOP of the knuckle using heims. A bolt alone isn't strong enough to hold both heims OTK single shear.
... .
true..
i've bent 3 grade 8s and `1 grade 9 -5/8" bolts running mine in double shear otk..
7 bucks per grade 9 bolt lasts a couple rides
-- the steering wheels goes outta center-- its a reminder for me not to twist the ear off the knuckle when i'm steering the 35s thru the rocks..
 
IntrepidXJ said:
coil buckets should only be a problem with going over the knuckle with the tie rod.....since he said under, it shouldn't be an issue

oops my bad!

well..


if these goons would hit the [enter] key ever once in a great while
:compwork:

--and seperate the lines of text--

i'd be more likely to read the details of the post more clearly..
:passgas:
 
ya nice setup, but when putting the drag link so high up there, it really throws off the angle compared to the track bar (lots of bumpsteer).

I was also thinking of the idea you suggested about the tie rod knuckle to knuckle, then welding on a tab to the tie rod for the drag link. Helps keep the drag link and track bar aligned AND maximizes flex.

My main concern now would be the tie rod hitting the diff. cover at full turn. I dont want that kind of limitation in the steering. I'm gonna be using 1 1/4" tubing, anyone use this diamter tubing and still hit the diff cover?
 
etaniyani said:
ya nice setup, but when putting the drag link so high up there, it really throws off the angle compared to the track bar (lots of bumpsteer).
yeah one would think so, but mine isn't perfect & i DON'T have bumpsteer

(see the pics above, if they're not red-x's-limited band width host server issues)

but i guess its not bumpsteering bc of all the time i spent setting up the caster & toe..
 
well maybe not lots of bumpsteer, but there will definately some. When I made the track bar, the new bracket I made to mount to the frame also changed the angle slightly and I did notice some bumpsteer, nothing drastic but slightly noticeable. I'd rather design it so I have none.

I think i'm going to go with the tie rod knuckle to knuckle (under the knuckle) and have the drag link attach to the tie rod. Also going to weld another tab on the drag link for the steering stabilizer.

Over the knuckle seems like its going to require even more work to make it work properly when it won't really benefit anything.

So, those running knuckle to knuckle, how badly does the tie rod hit the diff cover? This will definately be a flaw in the system which I dont really want and can't fix. 1.5" tubing is pretty big, I'm thinking most likely 1.25" maybe 1" if there are serious clearance issues.
 
I am running an 1.25" tie rod knucle to knuckle, under on the drivers side, over on the passenger (for clearance issues), and do not hit the cover at all. The cover is stock, plated with 1/4" on the bottom half.

However, the steering stops were setup before I bought it, and I dont know how much they were moved, if at all.

Travis
 
alright thanks, nice to know.

Okay guys, I think i'll be starting it this friday, hopefully I'll get up some pictures if anyone is interested. Thanks again for the input.
 
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