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Zone 3" lift

A

alexgalexg

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Connecticut
So finally I think I picked a lift. I wanted a 3" lift with a soft comfortable ride and the extra ground clearance to get further into the woods without doing too many mods as its my first lift. From what I understand this lift is supposed to be all I need but im a little skeptical of what people say. I know some stuff like bump extensions is semi optional as long as you arent going to jump the jeep but I feel like at least the control arms would need replacing. Anyone bought this lift?

https://www.quadratec.com/p/zone-offroad-products/3-suspension-system-rear-leaf-springs
 
Its also important to me that it sits at the same angle it does on stock suspension. Back a little higher than the front. This is why I wont buy skyjacker
 
A few years back I bought my son a 97 that had just had that lift kit installed. You don't need new control arm I believe. Google "jeep cherokee control arm chart" and you'll get many images of a chart. Three inch lift would require 0.26 inch longer control arm so stock work ok.

However, you will need a new adjustable track bar. My son's jeep ended up with the axle skewed about an inch to the drivers side. (Track bar goes from DS frame rail to PS of axle, as you lower axle, it pulls axle to DS.) I noticed it while driving behind him.

If your track bar has not been replaced recently, not a bad service idea anyway. Also I'm thinking of doing new control arms on my son's XJ this summer as doing so will serve to replace the old bushing at the same time (and I'm not going to try to press new bushings in the old arms myself).

That concludes my knowledge on the subject. One project for me this summer is learn whether 3" lift warrants caster/pinion angle adjustment on the axles -- and to check the pinion angle on my son's jeep. Zone installation instructions say nothing about it. Maybe someone will chime in and help us both on this point.
 
Oh, you didn't ask this, but I don't like at all how my son's jeep rides with the zone springs. Way too stiff for me. Awful in fact. This was from a kit installed about 3 years ago
 
There are so many kits that are better!
 
Well I'm slapping a lift on my jeep before July so if anyone wants to chime in with some SOFT COMFORTABLE riding lifts that are quality and are 3-3.5 inches please chime in!

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HH-Bham said:
A few years back I bought my son a 97 that had just had that lift kit installed. You don't need new control arm I believe. Google "jeep cherokee control arm chart" and you'll get many images of a chart. Three inch lift would require 0.26 inch longer control arm so stock work ok.

However, you will need a new adjustable track bar. My son's jeep ended up with the axle skewed about an inch to the drivers side. (Track bar goes from DS frame rail to PS of axle, as you lower axle, it pulls axle to DS.) I noticed it while driving behind him.

If your track bar has not been replaced recently, not a bad service idea anyway. Also I'm thinking of doing new control arms on my son's XJ this summer as doing so will serve to replace the old bushing at the same time (and I'm not going to try to press new bushings in the old arms myself).

That concludes my knowledge on the subject. One project for me this summer is learn whether 3" lift warrants caster/pinion angle adjustment on the axles -- and to check the pinion angle on my son's jeep. Zone installation instructions say nothing about it. Maybe someone will chime in and help us both on this point.
Click to expand...
Wow thanks for the detailed reply! Did you have to do a t case drop?

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Rubicon Express and OME top my list's!
 
I have this kit with nitro charged shocks. I didn't need brake lines,t-case drop or control arms. It is aligned very well. I didn't get a adjustable track bar either but I may put one on later? The rear on mine is very stiff. I have had it on for a year or so and 7500 miles. I am gonna try some cellular shocks for the rear and see if it helps.
Everything went together smooth,and other then being to stiff in the rear it was a great kit for the price.
Good luck
 
The biggest reason for new control arms is they are offset at the axle to clear the shock mount. The axle will not drop as far without the two touching with stock arms. You can redrill the track bar mount over to compensate for the lift but a new adjustable track bar is better. The brake lines will be about tapped out around there. You can either stretch the hard lines and leave them hanging for more length or just get new stainless hoses which I would recommend. And a good set of shocks will make a world a difference over some El cheapo one's.
 
I agree on the arms if your gonna wheel it hard. Mine is street and trail. I don't think it's necessary at 3" 4.5 and above yes.I also don't disconnect my sway bars at 3" either. It can still wheel some very moderate trails and goes past 85mph regularly.
 
To the jeeper recommending Rubicon Express I also was looking at that lift. Is it a soft ride? I had hard shocks on my other xj and after 300k it had rattled the crap out of everything I definitely dont want to do that again.
Also Rubicon Express does not make a 3" only 3.5" and being mine is a 98 it's probably going to need a t case drop at that height right?
Everywhere I read something different and this is my daily so I definitely need it to work properly

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I've been running RE on my 2000 for 15yrs and love the ride. My new 2000 came with ??? 3" lift and it rides like a tank. On my original 2000 I had to do a full HD SYE kit, I tried a H-n-T first with no luck. On my new one I want to replace the lift with either RE or OME.
 
Roughness of the pavement ride depends more upon the brand of shocks installed, than upon the brand of springs installed. Avoid any shocks with Hydro, Nitro, or Rancho in their name. Many lift kits come with one-size-fits-none shocks that are not properly valved for an XJ Cherokee. Buy your shocks separate from the lift. DoetschTech, and BDS are good shock choices. Bilstein 4600 are also an option but they are a bit on the firmer side.

RE, BDS, OME, and Iron Rock Off Road are good choices for lift kits.

At about 3 inches or more of lift, you should either install an SYE, or start saving for one. At 3 inches of lift, stock control arms can be used, but longer lowers are a good idea. At 3 inches of lift, pinion angles will be acceptable, but not ideal. YMMV.
 
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Only RE lifts I'm finding are 3.5 which is still fine but definitely dont want to go bigger for aesthetic purposes. The sye is something that is within my budget I've been saving for a while it's just a matter of learning how to install all this. I'll have to hit the internet hard tonight getting all this together because I want this done before the jeep rally in Ellington ct? I think? This summer. Thanks for making my research a little less of a headache

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So I am seeing many very different sye options out there. Anyone know which one I need for my 98 if I do the 3.5" RE?

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trippled said:
As long as you have a 231. Np242 will be different. I have an old Advance adapters sye that's worked great.

The difference between 3 and 3.5 will be pretty much none. I highly doubt you'd be able to see the difference and the .5 probably won't be the ultimate deciding factor on vibes.
Click to expand...
I dont remember for sure which case it has. There is a badge on it some place saying which one right?

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The iron rock offroad 3" is a decent lift, get the doestech or bilstein shocks with it, if you want an even better ride, order it without shocks, and go on doestech and order their monotube shocks. Core4x4 makes excellent stage 1 control arms, and a super beefy track bar. ironman4x4fab and iron rock offroad also make decent stuff. at 3.5" a t-case drop should be sufficient, if you don't wanna do a drop get a crossmember off a manual Cherokee cuz they sit an inch lower stock. avoid rough country at all cost, Rubicon express is decent, BDS and zone are the same company, just different level of quality. you'll want leaf springs that have more leafs in the pack as they will be less harsh of a ride. you can do brackets for the brake lines that drop them down, or order crown 5 layer lines, they will last a good long time. If you have never replaced any of the front end stuff, you will find out in short order if it needs it, same with U-joints in the drive shaft.
 
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