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My jeep build with photos over the last few years.

Got the apex today.
Thinking about putting it on the jeep and putting the old trusty emgo on the street truck.

In pic its just sitting on there
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Pretty sure temp dropped and it snowed because i put summer doors on.

I ran the apex its freaking fast smooth and quite compared to the emglo 9k. Still need to unpspool most of it and spool it back up.
Not entirely sure what i think about the synthetic rope. But wireless remote is really cool. Will test it for range.

Badass being able to drag it out hook an anchor and drag the rig without going back to reach corderd remote.
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So you are the guilty one!!

:twak:

I was supposed to be done clearing snow off my decks.

:flamemad:

Is that synthetic line UV resistant? Sitting out in the open like that you may want to look into that. Maybe make some sort of cover for it.
 
Yeah synthetic probly not uv proof. Figured id try it since the winch on the jeep is needing replaced.

Ill just use it let rot till it gets sketchy then replace

Yes it snowd because of me. More snow in extended forcast though ground is warm now so we shouldn't have to push unless its a real freak of a storm

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Reminds me of the road to and from home as a kid. We had three creek crossings one way, or one creek crossing and a river crossing the other way. They would wash out every now and then. There were several years when we couldn't get in or out (depending on where we were when the roads washed out) for weeks at a time. I missed a lot of school due to washed out roads. I loved (and still love) rain.
 
Probly wishing for it to wash out.

Im amazed by this transmission jack its freaking badass.
No i dont like the truck in blocks like that guess that could be how redknecks die. Squeezed to death under a cummins.

Havent shared pics of randamn stuff for a day or two so heres a few.

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Shops are weeks out labor is 1000 bucks or so. This will be my first auto build full valve body refresh reprogram, most likly all clutches seals bands. This already has all upgraded hard parts.
Has 180k on this rebuild tourque convertor started slipping. Have a convertor o had customn made with my stall specs and all upgraded internals and triple stator.

Will be all in for about 1600

Notice the filter blow out its barely got any miles on it.

Tomorrow i should have direct clutches removed see if it has 4 or 6. Four is stock its not supposed to be stock well see

Doing this definitely has me eying the jeep aw4 i have laying around id much rather have it than a manual

Fun stuff
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Kudos to you for being willing to tear into a modern slush box. Those have more of a learning curve than I am willing to tackle.

Note that swapping an XJ from manual to auto is harder than going from auto to manual. There are computer and wiring issues. I think you would need to swap the wiring harness/computer as well as the transmission. Also may need to swap the T-case too. Inputs shafts are different.
 
Would do rads stand alone thing

Thanks

Its a old school 727 with a couple sensors and overdrive is all

Should get a look at clutches tonight ounce i button up valve body

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Door #4 has been slow. Ended up cutting it out without removing hinges from door.
Cut the hinge and hammered it off with a air hammer then lifted the door off. And tossed on my jeep for final fitting.

I love the compliments these doors get apparently its the coolest thing about my jeep.

Guess a year isnt to slow to have doors for different seasons.
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Given how you've trimmed down the exterior handle to match the cuts in the main door body, what do you brace your hand against when pressing the release button? I've wondered about this other times I've seen similar modifications, but never thought to ask until now.

I'm used to having the rest of the handle for that, and I don't know that my hand (about 6 inches heel to fingertip) would be long enough to wrap around the door for that. Plus, the opening size, shape and height might make "doing a Dukes of Hazzard" a bit challenging. Plus, now that I think of it, I'm curious about you solution for the interior release handles? Relocated or eliminated entirely?


Rob

P.S. Also noticed your shackles in the back there - seems like they work well for you that way, but I'd be interested in how you got to having the bends turned that way (seems like that's the opposite of what I've seen in the instructions for other "bent" shackles you can buy online). Is there a bit more about those somewhere earlier in this thread?
 
P.S. Also noticed your shackles in the back there - seems like they work well for you that way, but I'd be interested in how you got to having the bends turned that way (seems like that's the opposite of what I've seen in the instructions for other "bent" shackles you can buy online). Is there a bit more about those somewhere earlier in this thread?

shape of the shackles is irrelevant as long as they don't hit anything!
 
shape of the shackles is irrelevant as long as they don't hit anything!

Fair point, it just struck me as odd as most "bent" shackles I see are turned the other way per their installation instructions.
 
Just went back a couple years and breezed through your posts about the coilovers install. You definitely have my gears turning about whether or not I want to take the plunge for CO's up front. There is just something special about CO's and leaf springs working together.

Do you have bumpstops up front? I might've just missed them.

I need to make a committed decision between CO's or coils and shocks because I want to do towers/hoops to get long travel shocks regardless of which way I go. They either need to be centered over the axle for CO's, or offset back for shocks to be behind the coils. CO's are more expensive, but tuneable and easier to package. I'm thinking the shock hoop to master cylinder clearance is going to push me towards coil overs.
 
Just went back a couple years and breezed through your posts about the coilovers install. You definitely have my gears turning about whether or not I want to take the plunge for CO's up front. There is just something special about CO's and leaf springs working together.

...

I'm wondering somewhat about how coilovers would be substantially different for front suspension flex than separate shocks and springs. From a functional perspective, a difference I see is that the factory spring setup requires that the coil spring accommodate the tilt of the axle both fore-aft and side-to-side. Not sure if that makes the front suspension any less compliant or significantly changes the linearity of the spring rate to either rising or falling.
 
I'm wondering somewhat about how coilovers would be substantially different for front suspension flex than separate shocks and springs. From a functional perspective, a difference I see is that the factory spring setup requires that the coil spring accommodate the tilt of the axle both fore-aft and side-to-side. Not sure if that makes the front suspension any less compliant or significantly changes the linearity of the spring rate to either rising or falling.


My understanding is the only practical difference in performance comes from the ability to tune the spring rates and shock valving precisely. With traditional coil springs, we're kinda stuck with the spring rate we get. The closest alternative is something like the Metalcloak progressive springs. With coilovers, the primary and secondary rates can be finely tuned to have a soft rate around ride height and get progressively stiffer as the suspension compresses further.

The soft spring is also great for retaining the coils on droop because they will be compressed several inches while at ride height. This can be made even better with the use of a helper spring to keep the coils in place even if the main spring moves away from the upper spring seat.

Then, of course, damper adjustability, which is a whole 'nother level of tuning most of us will never need.

Packaging is a big point as well. Putting the shock inside the coil takes much less space than outside. Also the coils are typically much more narrow. Evan's mounts on the axle side really show the benefit of a coilover mount vs traditional coil.
 
My understanding is the only practical difference in performance comes from the ability to tune the spring rates and shock valving precisely. With traditional coil springs, we're kinda stuck with the spring rate we get. The closest alternative is something like the Metalcloak progressive springs. With coilovers, the primary and secondary rates can be finely tuned to have a soft rate around ride height and get progressively stiffer as the suspension compresses further.

The soft spring is also great for retaining the coils on droop because they will be compressed several inches while at ride height. This can be made even better with the use of a helper spring to keep the coils in place even if the main spring moves away from the upper spring seat.

Then, of course, damper adjustability, which is a whole 'nother level of tuning most of us will never need.

Packaging is a big point as well. Putting the shock inside the coil takes much less space than outside. Also the coils are typically much more narrow. Evan's mounts on the axle side really show the benefit of a coilover mount vs traditional coil.

Those are good points. I hadn't given much thought to spring rate because I feel like my springs have a pretty optimal spring rate. And I do like the idea of not having to deal with contorted springs.
 
Packaging is probly one of the biggest advantages to coilovers. Second would be the the dual rate springs. With a slider on spring body to tune when firm rate come in. I have mine set to go to firm rate at 2" of compression.

3rd might actually be the most important. The valving. My shocks are valved for my suspension geometry, arm length angle. Tire size, actual weight on the front axle,
Then my exspectatians of what i want taken into account.
Can run the freeway way crawl the rocks or flog the desert at 60. It works pretty well. It is slightly firm feeling on small chop.
The faster you push this rig the smoother it gets.

Shackkes i had mounted the other way but didnt like how they looked. There are no inside door latches. I have big hands i just somehow unlatch from outside

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I gave my f150 to my daughter so only have the jeep thats drivable right now. Working on a bike rack.

Should pack 250lbs. Still have anchor points a few gussets also going to cut it so its 10" closer to jeep.

I like running with no doors. Gives it that utv open feel
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