Left rear brake went kapow

Me brakes all the sudden felt weak on the '96 XJ today and I get home to find the inside of my left tire coated with something coming from the drum. Looks like it all came out when I was stopped because it's all in one direction. So what am I looking at replacing here...probably the cylinder? Checked the whole brake line system and all the connections are dry, just the fluid coming from the inside of that brake drum.


I'd like to go OEM considering it's the brakes but since it's the rear and I'm strapped right now I wouldn't mind going with a known good manufacturer.

Sounds like you blew out the seals in the slave cylinder.


If you are strapped you might want to consider just rebuilding it. I used to do that all the time. Brake hone and a seal kit.


If you are going to replace the cylinder it might be a good idea to make sure you have a line wrench for the fitting. In the past I have needed both a line wrench and a hot wrench (torch) in order to get those fittings apart without destroying the hex flats.

You said "all the sudden" which makes me suspect the brake cylinder as well. But check your brake fluid level and give the mess a feel and sniff, as it could be a bad axle seal and gear oil all over the shoes too.

If the cylinder over extended, you might have an issue with the adjuster not working and very worn shoes. Shoes soaked in brake fluid might be toast anyway.

Replacement cylinders are $16, or $6 for a rebuild kit. If they're rusty, I'd rather just replace em myself.

I've never had an issue with cheap brake cylinders, cheapest should be fine. Like Anak said, the issue is almost certainly going to be getting the line off without damaging it. Be prepared to replace a brake line too.

Parrot everyone else here and add the following:


Tear down, clean it all up. Pull adjuster and make sure its not frozen up, clean and dab some brake grease on it for good measure. Oil soaked shoes should be replaced.


Map gas torch is pretty much to be expected if you are in a rust belt area. Heat, soak with PBlaster, repeat until movement. Back it off, then tighten and soak again. Work it out slowly, couple threads at a time. Crows foot wrenches will lessen the chance of damaging the flare nut.

No luck, cut the line and replace with the proper length. Autozone etc usually sell flared and fitted lengths to bend and install.

Easier to replace the wheel cylinder entirely, and about the same price when you factor in time spent to rebuild on top of the parts kit (depending on how much you value your time * 5 min replacement or an extra 45+ min to disassemble, hone, clean, and rebuild). Also good to have one on hand with line in case you have to brute force it out.

Probably best to remove the brake drum and inspect it first..........

You'll probably want to hose off the shoes and drum with brake cleaner too, since both now have fluid on them.

(Edit) Forgot to add, I rebuilt my drums last spring with NAPA wheel cylinders, they seem to be doing fine so far (street and trail)

(Edit 2) Also: I sprayed the hardline fittings with PB once before the job, and (since my XJ's not a DD) it got to sit for about 1-3 weeks before I tried to undo them. Didn't need heat, but I did end up having to use pliers on the driver's side fitting, so I just replaced that one line.