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Tie Rod Ends

Aaargh..killing me here. Got the Moog parts ES62L for driver's side/Pitman and ES140R for passenger side per Rusty's info.

The 62 is LH thread (hence the 'L' I suppose) and went into the passenger side, even tho' it's supposedly driver's side), so Ok, I'll swap them. The 140 is RH thread, the lock nut spins right on it but the shaft will only thread in 1/2" or so before it stops DEAD. Both originals go in/out all the way by hand so restrained myself from forcing it but am down w/o steering. Taper on the stud end on the old ones but not the new. That doesn't explain one going in by hand and the other not.

I ordered a 2nd set of these from another vendor for spares if they fail and so I won't have to hunt for the parts next time. They're due to arrive USPS this afternoon so I'll see if there's any difference - both are Moog.

I'm just venting folks.. it's how I roll.
 
I’ve had two of the moog Chevy one ton tie rod ends have bad threads out of the box. A small enough defect to have your exact description. Nut will make it past the bad section but a longer area of threads will not. Check the old one pressed up to the new one to make sure all the threads mesh together perfectly.
 
Moog ES 140R. .067 -18 thread. We were gonna chase it but my buddy, who has all tap/die sets you'd ever need in his truck shop didn't have it and couldn't get it from his supplier. Everyone said, "What!.. .067? We googled it.. lol. So, it'll be either Rock Jock Currectlync (Currie) or Clayton Offroad for a new setup unless I come up with something else for a brand new HD setup. Summit will ship the Rock Jock right away. Leave it to me to come up with some odd-ball stuff.

Will call Rusty's Monday to chew the fat. Left hand threaded fine, right hand not. There's a mismatch somewhere. Maybe Rusty's replacement ends fit..
 
https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/tj-lj-xj-mj-heavy-duty-tie-rod-system

https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9701

Trying to discover the differences in construction and find they are the same stuff. Summit has the RJ-9701 for $596 and ships right away.

ZJ steering has been suggested but it appears the drag link is the same diameter as OEM XJ so that would be a step down from the bigger DL I already have.

I'm open to suggestions. I know a guy who had the Currie on his TJ and an XJ and liked them fine. What I like is "no modifications".

Enlighten me.. and thanks.
 
Last edited:
Rockjock is a sub-division of Currie!
 
RCP Phx said:
Rockjock is a sub-division of Currie!
Click to expand...

Yup. Figured that out right after I posted. Clayon Offroad link is the same setup. In my mind, Currie is good stuff. Just waiting for input to pull the trigger. Summit can ship Monday, hopefully from Sparks, right down the road.
 
Did you check Tap America? Seems like a bit of a waste to ditch your current setup since it apparently seems ok except for the worn tie rod ends on the drag link.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
maxbraketorque said:
Did you check Tap America? Seems like a bit of a waste to ditch your current setup since it apparently seems ok except for the worn tie rod ends on the drag link.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Getting weirder..

Moog ES 62L is also listed online as 0.67 thread. That part screwed into the drag link flawlessly as did both original end links on their respective ends. I'm thinking Moog has screwed the pooch on the ES 140R with poor machining, lathe, incorrect blank diameter, or something. I got 2 brand new Moog parts from 2 different suppliers and neither fit.

Maybe I'll give Rusty a shot to see if he can shed some light or send me one of his for that end, if they're not Moog.

I looked at Tap America but not sure how to go about it, not only cuz I don't know much about all that and but since the suspect part in my mind is not the tube but the end link threads.

We should have tried a die on the known good end link threads to see if we could come up with something that fit. My buddy has high dollar kits of taps & dies and works on high dollar equipment every day.
 
If you want to stick with Moog, here is an 11/16-18 die that can be used to chase the threads on the ES140R:

https://drillsandcutters.com/11-16-18-carbon-steel-hex-die/

You could also try a different brand of tie rod end. I went with Proforged when I rebuilt my steering linkage. They come e-coated and they use an articulating boot rather than a sliding boot. The proforged equivalents to the Moog tie rod ends are:

https://www.holley.com/products/suspension_and_chassis/tie_rod_ends/parts/104-10606

https://www.holley.com/products/suspension_and_chassis/tie_rod_ends/parts/104-10381

However, I can't tell which is RH and which is LH threads.
 
Currie morning I’ll bolt right up, and you can keep your flipped drivers side knuckle.

ZJ will work if you need to get on the road NOW (can be bought at any big box store). When I was a broke college kid running ZJ steering.... out of ALLLLL the tie rods I bent, I only bent one drag link. And I bent a LOT of tie rods. Then I walked back into autozone, warrantied it, and aligned it right there in the parking lot.

For the rod ends you have... I’ve seen one tie rod/heim screw into a link easy, then another be tight. Tolerance stack up can do that. Hold them up to the each other and quick check they are the same thread. A pair of dies would clean up your new rod end threads and triple check that it’s correct cheaper than a pair of taps.
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
Currie morning I’ll bolt right up, and you can keep your flipped drivers side knuckle.

ZJ will work if you need to get on the road NOW (can be bought at any big box store). When I was a broke college kid running ZJ steering.... out of ALLLLL the tie rods I bent, I only bent one drag link. And I bent a LOT of tie rods. Then I walked back into autozone, warrantied it, and aligned it right there in the parking lot.

For the rod ends you have... I’ve seen one tie rod/heim screw into a link easy, then another be tight. Tolerance stack up can do that. Hold them up to the each other and quick check they are the same thread. A pair of dies would clean up your new rod end threads and triple check that it’s correct cheaper than a pair of taps.
Click to expand...

Put a caliper on both the old and new Moog and the bolt diameter is not the same. Didn't do the math but caliper glide over one and not even close on the other. Back to calling Rusty Monday to hear what he has to say. Not a big deal now, thinking the Rock Jock might be the way to go. It's not a daily driver (much) but do have a trail run Saturday that I can make or miss.

So, my driver's side knuckle is 'flipped', eh? I had no idea. :twak: Only XJ I've ever even looked at.

Good story on the college days..
 
I just installed cavfab steering. I'm to cheap for the currie... It was like 260 delivered, but it is heim instead of tre. Simple, saying, and cheap is my preference lol.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
NOTNSUV said:
Put a caliper on both the old and new Moog and the bolt diameter is not the same. Didn't do the math but caliper glide over one and not even close on the other. Back to calling Rusty Monday to hear what he has to say. Not a big deal now, thinking the Rock Jock might be the way to go. It's not a daily driver (much) but do have a trail run Saturday that I can make or miss.

So, my driver's side knuckle is 'flipped', eh? I had no idea. :twak: Only XJ I've ever even looked at.

Good story on the college days..
Click to expand...

Good catch... and it cost ya nothing. No tap or die is going to solve that. These are the check I like to do before even considering buying a tool or different parts. Identifying the issue helps solve it faster.
 
Whelp.. Austin at Rusty's says Moog might have gotten their stock rod mixed up and/or misboxed their ES-140R, "..been using them for years".
So, he's shipping me two of their branded J8136600, should be here in a few days, and I'll know one way or the other by the weekend. If this one doesn't fit -eek- I'll ship the whole shaboom to them for reference.

Very helpful at Rusty's, now if stuff will work.

Fingers crossed
 
Evan03 said:
I was gona say ya good luck with your budy having that yap.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
.

Ya, and I'm not real optimistic the new part I'm getting Friday will be correct.
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
Currie morning I’ll bolt right up, and you can keep your flipped drivers side knuckle.
Click to expand...

I want to confirm this statement so if/when the time comes to upgrade I'll have no surprises. I'm easily confused.. and some are describing mods I'll need but possibly talking about a setup other than the Currie/Rock Jock.

Hopeful the Rusty's tie rod will work, but if not, or if they wear out quickly, I'd like to jump on the Rock Jock, bolt it up, and go. Not excited about drilling and welding, etc.. don't have a load of equipment.

I have a buddy who's done the Currie on a TJ and an XJ so I have some expertise available. I'll ask him to look over my XJ for his thoughts on requirements.

Thanks.
 
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