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CSF 3 Row Radiator the best way to go?

Concur, this is why I am looking for info on which brand to go with.

Of course the Be-Cool would be the right answer, if I wanted to spend all the money. But I'd rather keep things on the inexpensive side. I don't see the wisdom of spending $500 when I $160 will do the same job.

Is anyone running one of these radiators (other than the Be-Cool) in a V8 swapped XJ?

Put a Mopar HD XJ radiator in it. Not a stock one from the parts store.

P/N 52080104AC

It says designed for the middle east on the label. I've had zero issues since I installed mine and you have none of the fitment issues of the all aluminum ones.

I had a champion one and it worked well until I ate it with the fan clutch. But it was seriously thicker than the Mopar one. I think that contributed to the damage.
 
My FFD is now 5 years old and still problem free. I was using Amsoil coolant the entire time.

Any fitment issues on install? That seems to be the common thread with the lower end aluminum radiators on the market. I had a Radiator Barn all aluminum 2 row that lasted for 10 years in my '99 before it sprung a leak and it cooled beautifully during that time. They closed their doors some years back and the replacement that was purchased from Radiator Express took some effort to mount.
 
Put a Mopar HD XJ radiator in it. Not a stock one from the parts store.

P/N 52080104AC

It says designed for the middle east on the label. I've had zero issues since I installed mine and you have none of the fitment issues of the all aluminum ones.

I had a champion one and it worked well until I ate it with the fan clutch. But it was seriously thicker than the Mopar one. I think that contributed to the damage.

Apparently those are going for $650 now...
 
I have the FF Dynamics radiator. I also had their fan setup, and was the prototype for their shrouds. The fans couldn't keep it cool, period. My experiences are why FF Dynamics now has a disclaimer on their website about desert running. Went back to stock mechanical fan and clutch; stock electric fan. Stays mostly cool now.

The FFD Dynamics is thin enough that I was barely able to squeeze a ZJ extreme duty fan clutch. There was just enough space to allow the clutch to clear the nipple on the fan pulley assembly.

I'm still debating a single row Griffin.

David Bricker / SYR
 
What's the clearance on that fan? It's been my experience that clearance st idle and driving down the road vary widely. When I put a 350 in my sexy truck it cleared static, and then ate the radiator while driving.
 
The clearance is approx. 1/4", the amount of the depth of the nipple on the fan hub. Maybe 3/8"; I didn't measure. When installing the fan, the blades were scraping the fins on the radiator.

I have Brown Dog motor mounts, and two trans mounts, so the engine doesn't move around much, if any. This assembly has been in for about 4 years (5,000 miles).

David Bricker / SYR
 
I've had two champion radiators leak... The first one leaked at about 5 months.. sent it back the second one leaked at about 4 months .. so after it's replaced I gotta see if I can get my money back and start radiator shopping again
 
When I put a 350 in my sexy truck it cleared static, and then ate the radiator while driving.

God, I hate autocorrect...

should have been "when I put the 350 in my S-truck".....
 
The clearance is approx. 1/4", the amount of the depth of the nipple on the fan hub. Maybe 3/8"; I didn't measure. When installing the fan, the blades were scraping the fins on the radiator.

This would make me VERY apprehensive. That's exactly how the clearance was on my initial install of the V8. I had to move the radiator into the core support to get proper clearance after it ate the radiator. I am using poly/HD motor and tranny mounts as well. Granted they are not the same brand or configuration, but it's a different vehicle. I couldn't get much better motor mounting if I had to- maybe if I went solids all around. But then, I am dealing with V8 torque. ;)
 
This would make me VERY apprehensive. That's exactly how the clearance was on my initial install of the V8. I had to move the radiator into the core support to get proper clearance after it ate the radiator. I am using poly/HD motor and tranny mounts as well. Granted they are not the same brand or configuration, but it's a different vehicle. I couldn't get much better motor mounting if I had to- maybe if I went solids all around. But then, I am dealing with V8 torque. ;)

I'm not thrilled with the clearance, don't get me wrong. And, I don't put a lot of miles on Gomer (1000 miles yearly, max). I haven't seen movement, but then again, I haven't looked really hard. I'll add it to my list of to-dos in two weeks when I go out to PSR, in addition to dying of heat stroke. Will be measuring distance, as a single core Griffin is a possible change in the future.

David Bricker / SYR - DCA
 
One thing I'm finding handy for such info is a cheap. Knockoff gopro mounted to film the object in question, so I can then go out and reproduce the offending clank or torque on the drive train to induce movement if at all. Ie, power braking forward and backwards to check lateral movement. I never had a doubt about fore and aft movement once I heard the telltale sound of flex fan eating radiator. Had I this concern now. I'd film it while commuting and review afterwards. You can get them for about 30 bucks on Amazon.
 
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