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Clearwater Cylinder Head (0331 replacement) Questions

MoFo

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Memorial Lifetime Member
I know several people on here have had to deal with a cracked 0331 head. I have one now. I don't want to loose the small exhaust ports and other things that give this head the low RPM torque. I called Clearwater Cylinder Head, wanting to know how closely their head specifications compare to the factory 0331 specs. I was prepared to ask the salesman several questions. When I asked the first quesiton for the combustion chamber volume, he said "they should be about the same as the factory 0331 heads. I then asked if they had any details available about the head. He said no. I gave up and said goodby.

Has anybody here done an evaluation of thir Clearwater Cylinder Head? I am very reluctant now to order pistons and other parts without knowing some details about this aftermarket head that I had planned to use for the stroker.
 
I bought one of their heads for my 00, about 3 months ago. Used odessa cylinder head (same bunch)

I have read another compaint about core shift, but on the combustion chambers being off-center to the head gasket.

I had two problems with the head I received. I did a stock replacement, so the combustion chambers stayed rough and crusty.

The rocker pedestals had a lot of core shift, a few pedestals are too lopsided for my comfort. I bolted it on anyway, they do not cover return shipping. But at $455 for an all new head, I can't argue.

the openings for the push rods, where the oil drains back were still crusty with casting sand and paint was laid on top of the sand. I had to scrape and vacuum this crap off before pre-oiling the rocker arms.

The casting was rough, and needed a better cleaning, deburring. I was iffy with core shift, but the machining quality is very good. All the threads are sharp and even. The mating surfaces are dead flat, and using a Fel Pro severe duty head gasket, it sealed perfect.
 
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If your worried about a aftermarket head why not get a 02 or newer factory head and have it built? I picked mine up locally for $50 and i think it cost me $140 to have the machine shop rework.
 
Wow thats super cheap for a six cylinder head!
 
honestly you can't go wrong buying parts at the local junkyard and getting some good machining work done. and it should be relatively cheap to buy the parts at a yard because the 4.0s are a dime a dozen. i mean i buy whole mopar small blocks off craigslist half built for $300 and under all the time. people don't finish projects and you can score a deal that way too. i sell whole 4.0s at my work running for like $350 or less. i would say grab a low mile head off a JY jeep for $50ish and get it machined, add better valve springs, blah blah blah and.... all of a sudden you're poppin wheelies in your XJ! haha for low money too
 
honestly you can't go wrong buying parts at the local junkyard and getting some good machining work done. and it should be relatively cheap to buy the parts at a yard because the 4.0s are a dime a dozen. i mean i buy whole mopar small blocks off craigslist half built for $300 and under all the time. people don't finish projects and you can score a deal that way too. i sell whole 4.0s at my work running for like $350 or less. i would say grab a low mile head off a JY jeep for $50ish and get it machined, add better valve springs, blah blah blah and.... all of a sudden you're poppin wheelies in your XJ! haha for low money too

The TUPY head was my original plan. I have been looking on craigslist, ebay and have visited all the yards within 75 miles of here. There are no TUPY heads to be had. The listings on car-part.com are all fantasy. I have called all the yards listing the head and found everything within 500 miles of here has been sold already. I would appreciate any tips you can share about how to find a $50 TUPY head.
 
No, I didn't read all that mess.

I bought a head for my Liberty a year or so ago from them. They had excellent service, fast shipping and I never had a problem with the head. It looked nice.
 
well if you were closer to Rhode Island i would say come grab one from my work we're about to scrap a 2000 that had a severe collision and we already parted the crap out of it
 
If you run out of options why not just get another 0331 head for cheap? It wont crack if you dont overheat
This statement is complete BS. Surely you can't make such a statement with complete confidence, unless that is gained with the experience you have now after 22 posts. I have had this XJ since it was new and it has never been overheated.
 
I am very happy with my replacement head from Clearwater for my 00. I bought it in April. Everything lined up well and there were no shipping issues.
 
I am very happy with my replacement head from Clearwater for my 00. I bought it in April. Everything lined up well and there were no shipping issues.

Did you happen to cc the chambers, or compare the runner size with your original 0331 head? I am wondering how the low RPM torque compares to the original head.
 
I have a Mopar crate motor with 0331 head purchased two years ago. Does anyone know if the head is a remanufacture or one of the newer heads? Did they correct the problem with post 00 heads? I have not had an issue and it gets damn hot in the Valley.
 
Pull the oil fill cap off the valve cover and look at the floor of the head, between the rockers for cylinders 3 & 4. If you see "TUPY" cast into the head, your have the new head and don't have to worry about cracks. If you don't see this casting mark, keep a close watch on your antifreeze overflow bottle. If the head cracks, the first thing you will notice is the antifreeze is disappearing and there is no wet spot on the floor under the car.
 
Its debatable. You maybe able to get a used 03+ 0331 stock head for cheap and have it cleaned up with a valve job. But it could also run more if new valves ans guides are needed.

Stock head bolts will be fine. ARP also makes a set of bolts that are reusable many times, but you need to do something about the injector wiring conduit.
 
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