bleeding the brakes....

just want to know how ya do it because i have never done it before and need to do it 2morrow!!!

You can either vacuum bleed (preferred) or have a "two-man" bleed (don't need much special equipment.)

Order to bleed brakes - you do it from the farthest wheel in. Right Rear/Left Rear/Right Front/Left Front in that order!

You will need a box wrench that fits the bleed nipples - should be 1/4" or 5/16" You'll want a snug fit - if it's loose, you'll round off your bleed nipples. Also, if they haven't been "cracked" for a while (if ever!) you'll want to wet them down with PB Blaster.

Also, get some clear vinyl tubing that fits snugly over the bleed nipple - you'll want it to observe the fluid as it exits. Ideally, you'll also want a "bleed jar" (which can be made from any clear jar in a pinch) - the tubing goes to a nipple in the top, and the bottom of the nipple has another bit of hose that extends toward the bottom of the jar. Put enough clean brake fluid into the jar to cover the end of the hose - should be about 1/4" under fluid so you can't suck up air. A vacuum kit will have one, as well as clear vinyl tubing and a number of rubber adapters that will fit over various bleed nipples.

Put the wrench on the nipple hex, and test to make sure you can loosen the nipple. Tighten the nipple (gently!) and put the hose on.

If you're vacuum bleeding, pull a vacuum in the bottle with the pump, then SLIGHTLY open the bleed nipple. Observe the fluid going through the clear vinyl line - make sure it's the proper colour (water in the fluid will discolour it slightly,) make sure there are no solids (the piston cups/seals can break down,) and there are not air bubbles (which you can easily see in the clear line.) Tighten the bleed nipple before the vacuum gage reads normal pressure. If necessary, pull a vacuum anew and do it again (if you still have vacuum remaining, you can just pull the nipple or adapter off.) Empty the jar, check the master cylinder reservoir, and move to the next wheel.

If you're doing the "two-man" bleeding, make sure your helper can follow instructions eactly. Start out by making sure the wrench will fit and the nipple will unscrew as before, then put the hose on. Have your helper start to press the brake pedal slowly - and they are to let you know when they have 1/2" or so of travel left. Also, they are not to release the pedal until you tell them to. When they give you the warning, tighten the nipple (not overmuch - just snug) and tell them to let the pedal back up (letting the pedal back up while the nipple is open will just suck air into the system.) Observe the fluid and proceed as before.

In both cases - make sure you do not let the master cylinder reservoir run dry! If you do, you end up doing the job FAR more than you originally planned! Even if I have a vacuum bleeder, I have a helper (usually my wife, who takes instruction rather well...) watch the reservoir and just top off as needed.)

There's a third way - but a pressure bleeder is not commonly available. Let me know if you get one, and I'll tell you how to use it.

5-90

Your bleeder screws may also be 3/8", as mine were (1987 D44 and 1994? D30). They make a bleeder wrench with a bend to clear the backing plate of drum brakes; you'll probably want to pick one up. It should only be a couple bucks, and it's way easier and less messy than trying to use a standard box-end wrench or a socket wrench.

True - I just took a 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8" six-point box years ago, and just "bent them to my will." Torches and vises is nice - I make quite a few of my specialty tools (when I tore down an AW4, I was looking at about $400 in "bridge pullers" - I'd theoretically need several. I made one to do pretty much all the jobs out of materials on hand in about a half-hour total, kept it as a kit. Problem solved.)

5-90

Here's another device that I would recommend over a vacuum bleeder (especially when you have to do brakes by yourself). Saves a lot of time and you don't have to worry about the MC reservoir going dry .


And the link. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MVP%2D0101&N=700+%2D146861+115&autoview=sku

You can use it on just about any vehicle.

Heres one you can make yourself, I made one, it works great, good luck.
http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm

alright so i did it but theres air in the lines and the braking sux BIG time...eh damn it gotta do it again...

google "phoenix injector". i bought the "cheaper" all-plastic model a few years ago, and i LOVE the thing. makes one man bleeding jobs a breeze.

My guess is you got a little air in one of the lines during the bleeding process. Happened to me about 2 yrs back when using the one-man vacuum bleeding procedure. Guess I let some air into the rear passenger side. Had my 16 yr old son come out and help me doing it two-man style and found the "bubbles" in the line and got it out and the brakes were fixed.

I'm sure you'll find it if you take your time and make sure to get the air out. Good luck!!!

two words:
Speed bleeder
made by dorman, in the help section. They make it a breeze, and are also great because you can bleed brakes anywhere easily, like on the trail,.