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Best Spark Plugs

NGK V-powers, I use the 2262's in my stroker but they are probably a bit hot for a stock motor. I am convinced that you could put them in anything and have it run great.

stay away from bosch, they dont run as great as most people think
 
I did a plug and wire swap a few months ago, I used the Champion plugs.

Since this topic is up, but its not my intent to hijack this thread. Has anybody used Pulstar plugs? It looks like the plug has a capacitor inside of it to maximize power delivery (hotest spark) for a faster burn.
What are your thoughts on these plugs?

~Alex
 
i have the bosch platinum 4s and I would say there is nothing wrong with how it runs, but its not worth 8 dollars a plug. If the Bosches didnt last so long I would probly go with Champions. Although I am intrigued by NGK...I run them in my bike, how much benefit would they have over champions in a stroker?
 
I run the NGK in my stroker cause I needed a hotter heat range plug, and if you go up a heat range or 2 then you can get the irridium NGK's. I am just running the v-powers though

There is no Mopar plug, jeeps came with a champion from the factory.

And I know that some people have had great luck with the Bosch +4s, but I have seen too many people have wierd problems that switching back to a normal plug fixed. I even get .75 per +4 I sell at work and I still wont sell them to anybody not in a honda or BMW
 
Spark plugs are about 99% hype. Example: Bosch Platinum +4's... pure crap. I got suckered into spendin 8 bucks a plug only to have it seperate a couple months later. A spark is NEVER gunna be divided up across four ground electrodes. Each ground electrode would have to have the EXACT same resistance and be the EXACT same distance from the electrode, which is impossible to achieve. So unless you're workin some MAJOR voltage, you'll never get the spark to jump into all four ground electrodes. All those extra electrodes do is block the a/f mix from getting to the electrode thus resulting in a less complete burn if anything. What I'm saying is that I don't think they're any better than a $1 plug. I happen to like Autolites... they're cheap and reliable. I run Autolite platinums and have never had a problem with them at all. Iridiums I guess if you wanna spend the money would be ok too but I suspect you'd never tell a difference in a DD.
 
I used to run the autolites, they were great, my Champion truck plugs are doing great as well.
 
the benefit of a platinum or iridium plug is that it will last longer. They were designed for applications where it is harder to change all the plugs, ie a v6 ford sedan where you need to remove half of the intake to get to the back 3 plugs. On a jeep they are pretty unnecessary unless you just want the longer service interval
 
Anybody trying the new E3 p#EPT-E3-58 with copper core? I saw these in me think 4-wheel drive mag and they claimed to of noticed a difference in power. My plugs are getting fouled from running rich and I like the idea of running one with a few tips so the spark can find an un-fouled tip. Although it seems to run ok with the champions. It’d prob. Be best to just run a plug 1 spot hotter. But it doesn't like cold starts with these plugs. This is on the 87 xj 4.0. The 96 xj 4.0 loves the cheap champions come rain, shine or snow. I bought the 96 with Bosch plats and it ran like absolute crap, wouldn't even start half the time. The previous owner sold it to me for dirt cheap because he had the wrong plugs in and couldn't get it to run right.
 
those E3 plugs are crap, we sell them for lawnmowers and I wouldnt even put one in that. It is a "gimmick" plug. It is kinda like buying the magnet to go on your fuel rail to line up the molecules for a better burn. And yes, if you are fouling out plugs you could go up a heat range or 2, but I would check out the fuel regulator first. The vacuum line tends to come loose and expand over time, causes it to run rich(at least mine)

NGK 2262's are 2 heat ranges hotter,btw
 
PurpleCherokee said:
Spark plugs are about 99% hype. Example: Bosch Platinum +4's... pure crap. I got suckered into spendin 8 bucks a plug only to have it seperate a couple months later. A spark is NEVER gunna be divided up across four ground electrodes. Each ground electrode would have to have the EXACT same resistance and be the EXACT same distance from the electrode, which is impossible to achieve. So unless you're workin some MAJOR voltage, you'll never get the spark to jump into all four ground electrodes. All those extra electrodes do is block the a/f mix from getting to the electrode thus resulting in a less complete burn if anything. What I'm saying is that I don't think they're any better than a $1 plug. I happen to like Autolites... they're cheap and reliable. I run Autolite platinums and have never had a problem with them at all. Iridiums I guess if you wanna spend the money would be ok too but I suspect you'd never tell a difference in a DD.
Click to expand...

The 4 electrodes are there to make the plug last 4 times as long. Ever notice how a high mileage engine's plug gap will be massive? My Ferd plugs with over 100K on them had a gap of .105 (were supposed to be .040). When the spark wears down the first electrode the air gap will add resistance to that ground strap so the spark will jump to the next clocest ground. The extra grounds "in the way" probly have a very minimal effect on the flame speed.

~Alex
 
Mike1331 said:
My plugs are getting fouled from running rich and I like the idea of running one with a few tips so the spark can find an un-fouled tip. Although it seems to run ok with the champions. .
Click to expand...
If one electrod fouls then the plug is dead. The foul creats the least resistance to ground and it won't spark. If you use Chamions watch out for the ones made in Mexico. They have a nasty habit of snapping off in the head when you take them out.
 
wolfpackjeeper said:
those E3 plugs are crap, we sell them for lawnmowers and I wouldnt even put one in that. It is a "gimmick" plug. It is kinda like buying the magnet to go on your fuel rail to line up the molecules for a better burn. And yes, if you are fouling out plugs you could go up a heat range or 2, but I would check out the fuel regulator first. The vacuum line tends to come loose and expand over time, causes it to run rich(at least mine)

NGK 2262's are 2 heat ranges hotter,btw
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input, do you know which NGK is one heat range hotter. I'd like to keep it modest to keep from melting anything.
 
alex22 said:
The 4 electrodes are there to make the plug last 4 times as long. Ever notice how a high mileage engine's plug gap will be massive? My Ferd plugs with over 100K on them had a gap of .105 (were supposed to be .040). When the spark wears down the first electrode the air gap will add resistance to that ground strap so the spark will jump to the next clocest ground. The extra grounds "in the way" probly have a very minimal effect on the flame speed.

~Alex
Click to expand...

Yea, that's what I was thinking the only possible benefit could be. But like I said, mine seperated after a couple months so I wouldn't recommend them to anyone.
 
wolfpackjeeper said:
I think you want zfr5f11 ngk's, but I am not sure of that PN, I will check tomorrow if no one beats me to it
Click to expand...


I spoke with a guy at NGK and he said if i were to go a heat range hotter i'd loose power so i'll just stick with the stockers

Part #- fr5-1
Stock #- 7252

These plugs are resistor type with a copper core. This no doubt is what all 4.0 high output cylinder heads should be running.
 
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