ANOTHER death wobble thread....this time with all new parts!

Hey guys, im sure im missing something and need someone to point it out to me.... search isnt helping, you find all the same generic answers.

I have a 2000 XJ with an RE 3.5" lift. No spacers, all proper RE parts used.

Truck has new:
-ball joints (alloy usa 11801)
-all new steering (full crown HD setup, every piece changed)
-all new lower control arm bushings
-Both ends of my track bar are new - I have an re1600 with a stock TJ bushing in the axle end, and I changed the frame end to a currie johnny joint less than a month ago.
-All 4 wheels were just balanced


As far as i can tell, all of the parts that could cause death wobble are new, and have no play. But if I hit a bump on the highway, it turns into a wobble and I have to lose half my speed to make it stop. The only thing that ever prevented it was pushing my LCA's all the way forward on the frame side to crank up the caster angle, but my driveshaft vibed too bad.

Am I...missing something? The only thing I havent done is gotten a proper alignment, but this thing wobbles like its got a loose part. The wobble isn't gradual, as soon as I hit a bump, it goes.

Check:
Unit bearings, cracks in the frame around the steering box and track bar mount, Toe setting, upper control arm bushings, tightness of all fasteners in front end.

First and foremost: have you laid on your back, under the front axle, putting your hand on EACH AND EVERY steering and suspension link while someone slowly turns the wheel back and forth? with the engine off and with it running? turning the wheel fast? (you don't make mention of doing this...)

Vanquish said:

The only thing that ever prevented it was pushing my LCA's all the way forward on the frame side to crank up the caster angle, but my driveshaft vibed too bad.

Click to expand...

I wonder why you haven't replaced your upper control arm bushings?

Vanquish said:

The wobble isn't gradual, as soon as I hit a bump, it goes.

Click to expand...

ASSUMING it's not any of the parts you've replaced (and not the UCA bushings you haven't replaced...) this statement makes it sound like it would be related to the drag link or track bar.

Anyway, I would check your track bar mount to make sure the bolts are tight and not loose. Check the axle side bolt to make sure it doesn't move when the wheel is turned (perhaps the hole is wallowed out - I've seen this happen on the inside where you can't readily see it...) Check the johnny joint to make sure the clips are still properly retaining the bushing and there is no play there.

On the drag link I would check the ends for play, check the pitman arm (making sure the steering box is tight and not sloppy), check the steering box frame side mount to make sure the aluminum spacer is there and not broken and that the frame is not cracked/caving in. (Torque the steering box bolts while you're looking at it)

I suppose I should point out that you can't check any of this without someone else turning the wheel while you inspect... Visually AND physically (putting your hand on the joint/component to feel for movement

I have been under the truck many times while someone turns the steering. I will make my girlfriend do it for me as soon as I hear or feel something new...

Both wheel bearings have a small amount of play, very little. One is still close to new, not even rusty lol. The frame around the steering box is good, and so is the box itself. The spacer between the box and the frame has some cracks but the box itself doesnt move.

The upper control arms are stock and the bushings are still tight however I can understand it may -just- be time to replace them.

The track bar mount on the axle side i've plated the outside of with 1/4" steel to reinforce the hole but I suppose youre right and i should check the inside. As for the mount itself I run the RE bracket to run the bolt in double shear. I made my own brace that ties it into the passenger side but I removed it when I did my oil pan gasket. I will reinstall this too tomorrow