Bumper/Receiver build and SFR shackles boxes

[RCP Phx]

Yesterday I was able to get the new compressor on and going. Like a lot of things, the pump had every thing different and was not at all "bolt-on" but it's done and much quieter. Today I'll try to finish up the tie-ins and start on the receiver portion and may try to get the top plate cut out!

[maxbraketorque]

Originally Posted by RCP Phx

Like most things in life it didn't go exactly as planned. After complete look at what I was really dealing with it turned out a lot easier to make a couple of small "incisions" with the plasma cutter. It was actually a couple of fillet welds on opposite corners. I still have no idea what it's intended purpose for being there would be.

...

That thing was a PITA to remove. I first tried drilling out the attachment welds. I drilled one and found that I had to keep expanding the hole to remove the entire weld. I eventually decided that I didn't want to make another hole that big in the unibody rail to remove the other weld.

What ended up working really nicely was whacking the piece using a rod slid into the unibody rail from the rear of the vehicle. I think the rod was about 5/8" diameter steel by about 2 ft long, and I was able to shear the welds using a framing hammer. The weld closer to the front of the vehicle was about 80% removed already, but I'm pretty sure that I could have used this technique from the beginning, and it would have taken about 5 minutes total. A 2-3 lb hand sledge would have likely made this go really easy. Be ready for the piece to go shooting down the rail when it finally lets loose. You'll want something that can be used to retrieve it.

[Anak]

Originally Posted by maxbraketorque

That thing was a PITA to remove. I first tried drilling out the attachment welds. I drilled one and found that I had to keep expanding the hole to remove the entire weld. I eventually decided that I didn't want to make another hole that big in the unibody rail to remove the other weld.

What ended up working really nicely was whacking the piece using a rod slid into the unibody rail from the rear of the vehicle. I think the rod was about 5/8" diameter steel by about 2 ft long, and I was able to shear the welds using a framing hammer. The weld closer to the front of the vehicle was about 80% removed already, but I'm pretty sure that I could have used this technique from the beginning, and it would have taken about 5 minutes total. A 2-3 lb hand sledge would have likely made this go really easy. Be ready for the piece to go shooting down the rail when it finally lets loose. You'll want something that can be used to retrieve it.

Awesome tip. Thank you for posting this.

Thinking about it, welding a cold chisel to a piece of solid rod might be the real ticket.

[maxbraketorque]

Originally Posted by Anak

Awesome tip. Thank you for posting this.

Thinking about it, welding a cold chisel to a piece of solid rod might be the real ticket.

After getting the interior of the rail cleaned up, I observed that a small amount of the weld still remains and sits proud from the interior of the weld, so its not a perfect solution. Its perhaps 1/16" proud. Your chisel idea might help minimize this, especially if its wedge style chisel tip.

[XJlimitedx99]

Originally Posted by Anak

Awesome tip. Thank you for posting this.

Thinking about it, welding a cold chisel to a piece of solid rod might be the real ticket.

Originally Posted by maxbraketorque

After getting the interior of the rail cleaned up, I observed that a small amount of the weld still remains and sits proud from the interior of the weld, so its not a perfect solution. Its perhaps 1/16" proud. Your chisel idea might help minimize this, especially if its wedge style chisel tip.

I'm thinking it would be easier to notch the mount to clear that piece than remove it. Thoughts?

[maxbraketorque]

Originally Posted by XJlimitedx99

I'm thinking it would be easier to notch the mount to clear that piece than remove it. Thoughts?

If you have a mill, notching would be a piece of cake. I only have a die grinder, and it took me me a fair bit of time to notch the region around the raised hole. Might be quicker with a bench grinder. As keep in mind that the piece metal is a full 0.25" thick. Might be easiest to cut a slot in the bar going into the rail.

[RCP Phx]

Originally Posted by XJlimitedx99

I'm thinking it would be easier to notch the mount to clear that piece than remove it. Thoughts?

It would depend on your ultimate goal, it only took 15 minutes to clear everything out of those pockets so I get the maximum steel contact in there.

I didn't get much done this weekend as my steel order didn't show up.

[RCP Phx]

I just picked up this over-grown ball joint taper(approx 1-1/4" dia.) to use as my swing arm securing/retaining bolt. I do not want my tire moving around at all!

[RCP Phx]

I got a little work done this week. I got the backbone cut and tacked together.

[Evan03]

Looking sweet.
Whered you find the shopping cart?



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[RCP Phx]

This is what I got done this weekend. Tie-in's cut to length and angle cut, full weld on the back-bone, trimmed the top plate to size/shape(bolted on for access to the welds for now), and started on the skinning. I've got some miter work to figure out now(last pic).

[Anak]

Very nice.

[RCP Phx]

This was my factory bumper and a receiver I put on 20yrs ago, I have gained 5-1/2" in clearance overall.

[RCP Phx]

It turns out the build itself is it's own best jig for the miter's. I have the "fish-mouth" done (it was*4) so now I just have to fit the other end. I used a small cut from my Ruffstuff spindle as that's what I'm trying to keep straight.

[RCP Phx]

I'll add that the 1-1/2" solid spindle will help control heat/shrinkage/warpage. I am also working on mocking up the tire placement!