I'm tired of having a wet knee...

My windshield is leaking right above the drivers side. It's comin right through the top, and dripping right onto my left knee. Now before any smartasses :wave: say move your knee, I tried that, in my infinite wisdom, and it didn't work, cause then the floor gets all wet, and, as much as I love it, I don't want to give the rust any more help than Mom Nature gives it. SOOO, I considered just ramming some black silicone in there (for some reason that sounds perverse...), but I didn't really know how to go about it. That little piece of trim on the outside wouldn't really allow for very precise placement of the silicone, and the roof's sheet metal in the front (yeah, I pulled that stupid headliner out because the water destroyed it) has the same effect. Anybody have a viable suggestion? I tried searching for this, and couldn't come up with much, so see if you guys can give me a hand. Thanks in advance!
Andy

Oh yeah, almost forgot the drill...'91/4.0/Limited/4x4

Mine was leaking too, so I spent a full day and removed all the windshield trim and cleaned all the debris out of channel around the glass, took my time and did a real good job sealing every area around the windshield. Made sure sealant went from the metal to the edge of the glass in in continuous bead so there would not be any place for water to get in, let it cure, hit it with some water......so now I guess I'll take it to a glass shop and see if they can stop the leak.....lol

Save yourself a lot of hassle and take it to a windshield shop. I had an air leak, yeah, believe it or not, at the lower left bottom in front of the driver. The factory had neglected to put in about 6" worth of urethane. I could actually stick my finger in under the glass. So, in MY infinite wisdom, I filled up the crack with construction urethane (oops, this stuff hardens) and essentially created a nice dam for the water above to back up. Next rain, I had a floor full of water. Spent the rest of that day digging it out and then took to the windshield specialist where he was able to shoot some proper windshield (black) urethane into the gap from inside with a snozzle that was about a foot long. You can't really seal them effectively from the outside. Oh, and BTW, they will tell you there's a chance of breaking the glass if they have to pull the rubber gasket/trim and totally reset the glass. Good luck!

hey i know this sounds like an ass's ass. but go find yerself a good windsheild repair specialist. if hes good he might be able to get you a used windshield or just reuse yours if its in good shape. i have had the windshield on my 2000 replaced four times. (1, tractor threw a construction road sign through it on I-75 in tenn., 3 tractor throws rock(crack) incidents) i took it to a guy here in michigan for all four replacements and for all of them he removed the whole windshield and hooked me up with a used one that he salvaged off other vehicles. i even have a huge dimple in the body right at the top center of the windshield frame from where the construc sign hit the body. and 2 date i have no leaks. hes just stinkin good..but now that i opened my mouth we'll see....
CPL Maier

Damn, I was really hoping this was gonna be easy...::sigh:: never is, is it. Well, I guess a shop is the only way huh? That sucks, I hate paying other people to do what I know I can. Oh well, I guess that's that! Thanks guys I appreciate the help as always!

Andy

I HAD same trouble in my 86 2DR... What I did was to remove ALL of the metal trim on the outside and VERY thoroughly (sp?) removed all debris AND rust from the channel where the windshield is glued in (used a die grinder fitted w/ wire wheel). After this was done I primed all bare steel and now comes the trick... Go to auto glass shop and buy two 10 oz. tubes of windshield glue... open one @ a time- one tube got me a little past 1/2 way around the perimiter. I only did from 1/2 way up, up around top and 1/2 way down other side. Fill channel COMPLETELY! The downside is that your trim is now a non issue and easier for thieves to carve out glass... The upside is that knee and carpet in mine have been dry ever since... It will be ugly unless you are good at tooling the sealant, but it works and @ only about $20... The glass shop I went to claims glass replacement should not be that much harder with the extra adhesive... DO NOT GET THE STUFF ON YOUR SKIN!!!!! or anything else that you dont want to be black! Also works wonders for repairing cracked rubber on Sorrells!

I had this same problem and fixed it with a tube of 'windshield silicone' from autozone. It's with all the other silicone on the racks, but it flows more easily into the cracks between the roof/window (think it's called flowable silicone). I had to put it on twice in some bad 'leak' spots. I went around every side of the window, top and bottom, it was leaking in a couple spots. It's been on a month now with no more leaks on my knees/steering wheel/floor.

I think it's like $4 for a big tube, just cut the very tip off and work a small bead a couple times.

Yea that's pretty much what I was gonna do. Rig it as usual. The last container of that stuff I bought I left in my glove box in the package, and when I actually went to use it, it had splattered all over in the packaging from the heat. Heh heh, so I never got to use that one.