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01 Jeep XJ suddenly wont fire, just cranks over

janipopa

NAXJA Forum User
Location
OH
So today we had a really bad winterstorm and I was out driving around this morning with my 4wd on. Ran the car all morning around town, no issues with power or anything, its got a typical evap leak code that has been on the car since I bought it two years ago. I came home and turned the car off, went back out about 30 mins later and now it wont fire, just cranks and cranks. I put 5 gallons of gas in it thinking it might've run out but still no luck. Checked all the fuses and they're good. Only thing I have to check is the fuel pump relay which I'll just replace since they're cheap enough. I also had an odd P0138 code that I've never had before but everything I read says that it wouldn't cause the car to not start. I also tried some starting fluid and it sounded like it was about to fire up and then the throttle body just caught fire for a sec so I just left it alone.
 
Also, I replaced cam sensor about a year and a half ago because my truck stalled when I was driving and wouldn't turn back on. Its from autozone so I dont know if that may be the issue as well. I read it could be an issue with the crank sensor as well. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
 
Thanks for the reply, I am going to mess with the O2 sensor later, for now though I'm trying to get the car to start so any suggestions as to what's causing the sudden no start but constant crank issue would help. I'm really leaning towards fuel pump, fuel pump relay or the crank and/or cam sensor.
 
A P0138 can indeed cause a no start if the short circuit is to the 5 volt CCD Bus.

The most common cause for sudden no-start as emx721 suggested is a faulty CPS.



You should test the CPS, and solve the P0138.





P0138 JEEP - O2 Sensor 1/2 Circuit High

P0138 JEEP Possible Causes
Faulty Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1
Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 wire harness is open or shorted
Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 circuit poor electrical connection
Intake air leaks Exhaust gas leaks




The most likely cause of it cranks and cranks but won't start up is the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) located on the transmission bell housing. Often this part is also referred to as the CranKshaft Position Sensor (CKP). CPS/CKP failure is very common. The CPS/CKP can stop working with no warning or symptoms and the engine will not run or the engine may randomly stall for no apparent reason. Typical CPS lifespan is about 150-200,000 miles.

Crank Position Sensors can have intermittent “thermal failure”. This means that the CPS/CKP fails when the engine gets hot, but works again when it cools back down.

Typical CPS Symptoms, (not all symptoms may be present, or occur at the same time) -
- Random stalling
- Starter cranks and cranks but engine won't start up
- Fuel gauge and voltage gauges may not work or display properly.
- You sometimes will have NoBus displayed on the odometer after 30-60 seconds.
- A failed CPS/CKP may or may not throw a CEL trouble code.
- Fuel pump should run and prime for 3-5 seconds.
- No spark at the spark plugs.

When the ignition key is first turned ON, 12 volts travels from the ignition switch to the ASD relay. The PCM provides ground to the ASD relay to energize it. The ASD relay sends the 12 volts to the primary side of the coil. If after a few seconds no signal is detected from the faulty CPS, the PCM opens the ASD relay and 12 volts power to the coil and fuel pump is removed.


If the CPS/CKP is failed sometimes the OBD-II code reader cannot make a connection to the computer or cannot read Check Engine Light/MIL codes because the CPS/CKP has failed.

Diagnostic steps to help confirm the CPS is the cause of your no-start:

-You should be able to verify a bad cps, by unplugging it, and turning the ignition key to ON. If the voltage gauge and/or the fuel gauge now displays correctly, replace the CPS.
-Unplugging and reconnecting the CPS sensor where it connect to the main harness near the back of the intake manifold usually resets the ECU and if the jeep fires right up after doing this you can bet that the CPS is faulty and needs to be replaced.
-Exchange the fuel pump relay and the ASD relay with one of the other similar ones in the PDC to eliminate these relays as the cause of the no-start. Confirm that the fuel pump runs for 3-5 seconds when you turn the ignition key to ON.
-Eliminate the NSS as a cause of no start. Wiggle the shift lever at the same time you try to start. Put the transmission in Neutral and do the same. Do the reverse lights come on when the shifter is in Reverse?
-Inspect the wires and wire connectors at the O2 sensors on the exhausts pipe. A short circuit from melted insulation or from broken O2 sensor wires can blow a fuse and the ECU/ECM will lose communication.
-Check the ground connection for the PCM. Make sure it is clean, snug, and has no corrosion.

If you buy a new CPS, get a genuine Jeep CPS. Most auto parts stores sell cheap crappy Chinese "Lifetime Warranty" parts that are poorly manufactured from inferior materials and are often out of specification, or even failed, right out of the box. The ones that aren’t faulty often have a short service life before they fail. Always buy top quality replacement parts and genuine Jeep sensors. Numerous threads detail long and frustrating searches for a "problem" that ended up being cured simply with genuine Jeep repair parts. Buy good quality repair parts and genuine Jeep sensors for best results.

You must also perform basic trouble shooting of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables and replace as needed. Do the same for the grounding wires from the battery and engine to the Cherokee's frame/body. Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage or poor grounds and the ECM/ECU will behave oddly until you remedy this.
Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector (CPS/CKP)
CPS Testing


Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector (CPS/CKP)


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TESTING PROCEDURE 1991 – 2001 4.0L H.O. engines
1. Near the rear of intake manifold, disconnect sensor pigtail harness connector from main wiring harness.
2. Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C (See Image). Ohmmeter should be set to the 10K-or-2OK scale for this test.
3. The meter reading should be open (infinite resistance). Replace sensor if a low resistance is indicated.

TESTING PROCEDURE for 1987 – 1990 4.0 L engines

Test # 1 - Get a volt/ohm meter and set it to read 0 - 500 ohms. Unplug the CPS and measure across the CPS connector's A & B leads. Your meter should show a CPS resistance of between 125 - 275 ohms. If the CPS is out of that range by much, replace it.

Test # 2 - You'll need a helper for this one. Set the volt/ohm meter to read 0 - 5 AC volts or the closest AC Volts scale your meter has to this range. Measure across the CPS leads for voltage generated as your helper cranks the engine. (The engine can't fire up without the CPS connected but watch for moving parts just the same!) The meter should show .5 - .8 VAC when cranking. (That's between 1/2 and 1 volt AC.) If it's below .5vac, replace it.


The 2000 and 2001 will have the CPS in the same location on the bell housing, but the wire connector may be on the passenger side, near or on top of the Transfer case, not as shown in the diagram below. Simply follow the wire from the sensor to the connector.

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I have a question about the firing though. When I used the starter fluid, the engine clearly has spark because the throttle body caught fire. Doesn't the CPS failure cause there to be no spark
 
Starting your engine on fire is not a diagnostic test. To run, the engine needs air, fuel, and spark. Which is missing ?
 
Those values for a good CPS above are golden. Saves a lot of potentially wasted time.
 
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