Bendix ABS Removal - a few questions

I've read up as much on this here as I can. Last weekend, I scored a complete '96 XJ for parts so I can convert my '89 to non-ABS. I've got the booster/master cylinder and the pedal assembly out of the donor truck, and I have a few questions for anyone who has done this swap.

1. Vacuum line for the brake booster. The intake manifold on my '89 does not have a fitting where the one on the '96 is. I found another port on the manifold that's capped, but I'm not sure whether or not I can use it.

Line on the '96:


Port on my '89:


2. Proporitoning valve/connection. The proportioning valves look exactly the same, just that the one on the '96 is turned around the other way and the one on the '89 has the hole on the end plugged. I was looking at the electrical connector/switch(not sure what it's for) look the same. Is it safe to assume that I can simply plug in the wiring in my '89 to the same place on the new proportioning valve?

'96:


'89:


3. Brake light switch. At least that's what I think it is. The switch attached to the pedal assembly out of the '96 looks different than what I recall seeing in my '89. Unfortunately it's Monday, and I neglected to take a picture of the switch in the '89, but I am pretty sure it(and the electrical connection) are different. Any tips on this?

Switch and connector in the '96:


4. Hydraulic components. It looks to me like my best bet is to just swap over all of the hard lines from the '96, as they should(feasably) go right into place on the '89. They look like they'll all be easy enough to remove from the '96, which is good, because I don't want to have to go through bending and flaring new lines if I don't have to. I already picked up new front and rear hoses('95 TJ, I believe) to go along with the swap and my recently installed 2" BB. I read something about the rear wheel cylinders being different. Is it 100% necessary to install the non-abs units?

5. Electrical stuff. There is an extra connector on the side of the reservoir in my '89(I assume for fluid level warning?) that the '96 does not have. Can I simply leave this disconnected? And how do I go about making sure the ABS light isn't constantly on?

Connector on the '89:


No such connector on the '96:



That's all I've got for now(though I'm sure I'll have more later). Any other tips or pointers would be great. I'm trying to photo document this as best I can so others can view this later. The more information available on this swap, the better.

In my limited knowledge, I will answer a few of your questions. I swapp3ed a 99 booster into my 90 without ABS. That capped port on your intake will work fine as the vacuum source from what I can tell. It appears to be in the same location as mine is and that will give alot of vacuum, so I would use it. Worse case scenario, you swap manifolds to another renix manifold with the vacuum port already there.
Other than that, it should be a straight forward swap. The only thing that I had to get used to is the pedal. it is now ALOT higher than it was before due to the rod being longer.
As far as the brake light switch, I ended up using a inline pressure switch. My buddy tried to drill it out to fit, but it was just slightly off and it caused me to have brake light problems. An inline pressure switch is only about 12 bucks and will resolve any future problems with the sensative electrical switch.

Just my .02
Good luck

Been a few years since I did this so, here is what I recall:

1) Yes that vac port will work fine - the fitting from the donor should thread right in, and the vac line from the booster can be manipulated to fit it.

2) Yeah, I think it'll plug right in.

3) I pulled the whole pedal assembly from the donor and had no problems plugging in the brake light switch.

4) Whatever is easiest to you for replumbing it works. Swapping hardlines looked like a lot of work so I bent, cut, and reflared - adaptors can be used to avoid cutting and reflaring. Rear wheel cylinders are smaller with ABS, once the whole system is open, you might as well replace those anyhow.

5) Yeah, a plug or 2 for the ABS system ends up disconnected. Pull the fuses labeled "ABS" after you are done and no warning light but, I never got the red light indicating the E-brake was set, to work after I did the conversion - small price to pay for dependable brakes. . .

Hints: I cut out the ABS crossover behind the engine with a hacksaw - just couldn't wiggle it out. At some point you know you hit the point of no return - that was it for me. Bleed the master cylinder before hooking up lines, and bleed the heck out of the system.