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  #1  
Old August 16th, 2003, 10:55
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Markm80521 Markm80521 is offline
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Motor Mount Replacement

Two questions:

1) need to replace my motor mounts and I wondered does anyone have product reccomendations? (M.O.R.E., etc.)

2) Can I just put wood under the oil pan and jack the block up a little from there or will I need a crane?

Any insight would be appreciated!
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  #2  
Old August 16th, 2003, 11:16
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Neil Neil is offline
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I used the Kragen lifetime motor mounts. I figure if I break one I get a new one for free. I also used a jack and a block of wood to take the weight off of the mounts. As for insight, just clean the area well with engine cleaner.
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  #3  
Old August 16th, 2003, 11:26
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xj92 xj92 is offline
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I'm putting the M.O.R.E. bombproof torsion rubber mounts on today, once I get off work. They're about $130 shipped. Rusty has polyeurethane ones for about $90, but I've heard poly transmits a lot of engine vibrations. The torsion rubber ones are supposed to be a compromise between more control and strength than stock mounts, and less vibrations than poly. MORE's instructions say to just put a piece of wood in-between the jack and the oil pan, and then lift it just slightly, just enough to take the weight off the motor mounts. Then Swap one out, but don't tighten it down. Then swap the other one out, then tighten them both down.
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Old August 16th, 2003, 19:47
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ssnsltd ssnsltd is offline
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I used a set of the new(er) M.O.R.E mounts. I got them
$120.00 from Mesa 4x4

Here is a good Tec write up with pics

he talks about both kinds
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  #5  
Old August 16th, 2003, 21:13
juicexj24 juicexj24 is offline
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I can only say good things about the MORE mounts. I do have the older style poly one. They do let you know the motor is running at idle if know what I mean. But I got them before they switched to the new style. I would go with the MORE, just the same as lifttime, your never going to have to replace them super beef. Juice
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  #6  
Old August 16th, 2003, 21:39
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Something else to consider is swapping the tranny mount at the same time you do the motor...

I used Advance Auto oem-type rubber mounts all around last year...OTOH when they expire, I'll replace with MORE rubber torsions.

The AW4 mount is fairly cheap & easy to swap, but the 87-90ish Peugot 5 speed mount is dealer only and pricy. I dunno about the AX15...
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Old August 17th, 2003, 06:58
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I purchased new mounts at the dealer. I decided I'd rather change mounts in the future than to have vibrations in the passenger cabin.

On my 88 XJ I had to remove the oil filter mount to get the through bolt out. So make sure you get the set of O-rings for the oil filter mount from the dealer before you start.

When you change the engine mount only do one side at at time. If you try to do both then you may drop the engine. Make sure you jack up the engine at the bellmount attachement to the block. Do not lift with the oil pan, you can damage the pan.

I also found it easier if you put the XJ chassis on jackstands then remove the front tires so the axle drops down. This will make jacking the engine easier since the weight is off the suspenion. If you don't remove the front wheels you will first lift the whole chassis and once suspension has traveled it full distance then you start lifting.

In the early 90s Chrylser put out a TSB to change bolt torque on the trough bolt due to problems. The only place I found this revised torque was on www.alldatadiy.com. I recommend you have a subscription for jobs like this.

Also you should replace the transmission mount. My dealer told me they change all 3 mounts at one time, if one is failed the other two are close behind.

I vote on getting your mounts from your local Jeep dealer. They were MUCH better looking than the anchor brand ones I picked up at the local parts store.
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Old August 17th, 2003, 07:28
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Markm80521 Markm80521 is offline
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Thanks guys, I have to look into the tranny mounts I've never done those before so that's good to know that's something I should tackle too. I have an AW4 so hopefully it's as easy/straightforward as you say. Thanks.
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  #9  
Old August 17th, 2003, 08:36
juicexj24 juicexj24 is offline
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Transmount is pretty easy. A floor jack and piece of 4x4 wood block to hold the t-case. Undo the four bolts holding the mount to the crossmember, than the four bolts holding the crossmember to the frame rails. (soak them down with some PB blaster first for a few hours). Remove the mount with the two bolts holding it on the trans. Install is the reverse, use some anti-seize on everything when you put it back together will save you problems down the road. Good luck, Juice

I have Rusty's Trans mount. MORE has them as well, so does Daystar and may other places.
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  #10  
Old August 17th, 2003, 12:53
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I got the M.O.R.E. mounts put on yesterday. I can definitely feel the vibes compared to stock mounts, but they do hold the engine in place firmer. When I rev it the engine doesn't move much, and if I rev it hard, it moves the entire body of the Jeep now. The transmission mount is next, I'll probably go with stock rubber on that one.
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  #11  
Old August 17th, 2003, 20:51
qwickcrx qwickcrx is offline
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I used polyurethane mounts from Jeep Essentials and they are awesome. They are also cheaper than the crappy stock rubber mounts which I believe is the cause of the 5th-6th exhaust header tube cracking problem. Since I put the new ones in my exhaust header has never cracked again
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  #12  
Old August 18th, 2003, 13:50
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Thanks again for all the help. Just ordered some M.O.R.E. mounts and they'll be here tomorrow since I am just up the road so to speak. Got a couple other necessities to take care of this month (Power Steering pump with 195,000 miles) so i'll have to take care of the trans mount another day.
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