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Wheel studs

ParadiseXJ

ParadiseXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Paradise, CA 95969
I'm changing out the wheel studs on my project MJ. They were stripped and in pretty bad shape because the PO had the wrong nuts (aka not beveled acorn nuts) in there so the wheel holes were all wallowed out which futzed up the bolts, yeah, ALL 20 of them.

So in replacing them I wanted to make them a little longer, so it was off to NAPA. The wheel studs for an 88 MJ are listed as "total length" 1 5/8". I wanted another 1/2". Simple enough, eh. NOT!!

First the wheel studs listed for the front are a different P/N. the difference is in the knurls. The fronts are .30 and the rears are listed as .19.

Has anyone run into this before. The studs and nuts are costing me some serious cash - $46 for the nuts (I ordered 23, front, rear and spare). The studs are $2.12 each (20 of them = $42 + tax). Also, nobody carries 20 studs at a time
 
Is there a discount tire near you? You can get chrome closed end acorns for $1
The Zj studs are a little longer, but most of it is just the non-threaded nose area.
 
hubs97xj said:
Stock sizes are a buck each from Quadratec. Is the extra half inch necessary, or just wanted?
Click to expand...

Necessary because I want the 'option' of putting wheel spacers on there. This is my "project" toy Jeep, not a DD. There is enough thread on the stock bolt to slap steelies or regular stock wheels but if I go with anything else (that I like) I can only get about 1/4" of thread, again, might be OK, but not how I want it. The extra 3/8 to 1/2 of threaded bolt works great, plus there's another 1/4" of non-threaded "pilot tip".

No Discount Tire here.
 
I got mine at Orelly,s 20 for 26.00 but they have the lock type on 4 of them.The caps came off a bout 1/2 of mine and to buy one at a time was like 70.00.Also walmart has them in a kit too. I think they are around the same price.
 
Get on www.dormanproducts.com and search until you find the part number for exactly what you want, then search that on the internet, best way to get what you want at the lowest price.
 
I think you should just use some grade 8 bolts




seriously though, look over at summit racing, they've got a stud category that will make your head spin with options. Lots of drag racers go with longer wheel studs because of increased rim material on the super strength racing rims.

Here's a link, use the options at the right side to determine thread pitch and type of knurl.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Wheels-Tires/Part-Type/Wheel-Studs/?Ns=Rank|Asc

our studs are what, 1/2-20 RH thread right?
http://www.summitracing.com/search/...-RH-in/Wheel-Stud-Style/Press-in/?Ns=Rank|Asc
there's all of the 1/2-20 RH press in studs, there's 38 listed, I saw a few that were 3 inches long, and a bunch that are 2 1/2.
 
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correct on the threads. I've never bought studs on summit but I did buy lugs there a few weeks ago, 20 RH 1/2-20 threaded deep acorn lugs cost me $39.change shipped. Part number I got was 7540162, they come in bags of 4. Those are all one piece of metal not those stupid ones with the pressed on chrome sheetmetal cap that falls off about 3 seconds after you torque the lug or gets stuck inside your lug wrench. They are nearly 2" deep internally, 1.5" of which is threaded.
 
87manche said:
I think you should just use some grade 8 bolts...

...longer wheel studs because of increased rim material on the super strength racing rims.
Click to expand...

I thought about just getting regular grade 8 bolts but then I would need to get a wrench on the axle just to take a tire off, unless I JB Weld-ed them on there, I founf that to be problematic unless I "real" welded them on the backside.

Besides the wheel spacers, there is additional 1/4" of thickness over what I have on the steelies on my XJ. Also the wheel spacer itself is about 3/16" thick where the bevel locks in.

The biggest part of the problem now (the biggest part is not the $$) is finding the right bolt, with the right knurl, with the right shoulder, with the right length (front is different than rear according to the book) and available without waiting for 3 days + shipping, yada, yada, yada.

kastein said:
... Those are all one piece of metal not those stupid ones with the pressed on chrome sheetmetal cap that falls off about 3 seconds after you torque the lug or gets stuck inside your lug wrench. They are nearly 2" deep internally, 1.5" of which is threaded.
Click to expand...

Yes, I was trying to avoid the POS two piece $1 nuts. I have found the tips or caps laying about over the years or just coming off in my hand. The ones I ordered are 1 piece solid and suck up the entire length of the threaded portion.
 
I was just joking about the bolts.

Seriously though, I would just order some 3" long jobs from summit, but you need to know the knurl diameter and type.

Summit gets me stuff the next day after I order it, but I'm also an hou from the warehouse. Regular ground shipping to CA is probably going to be 4 days.
 
Who did you talk to at napa? Next time you go, IME James is the only one there worth talking to. he's the big, bald, basketball headed guy. look for his grey s-10 in the lot to know if he's there.. He's not hard to miss. Tell him that you are working on a heep/MJ, and drop my name (we know each other well, several classes at butte) and he will usually go way outta his way to help. To me, the rest of the guys there just seem to be collecting a check.
 
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rysam said:
Who did you talk to at napa? Next time you go, IME James is the only one there worth talking to. he's the big, bald, basketball headed guy. look for his grey s-10 in the lot to know if he's there.. He's not hard to miss. Tell him that you are working on a heep/MJ, and drop my name (we know each other well, several classes at butte) and he will usually go way outta his way to help. To me, the rest of the guys there just seem to be collecting a check.
Click to expand...

I usually talk to either James or the skinny guy with sideburns, he drives the Toyota & camper (I think his name is Jim). He usually does me right. The young guy is OK too, helps me engineer some oddball stuff and doesn't roll his eyes when I tell him what I'm trying to do.

The girl (woman, I guess) seems to have that attitude like "just cause I'm a girl I can look in the book too", gets frustrated with me when I'm not buying stock stuff. After all why would you want to modify a perfectly good Jeep? [uh, er, cause that's what I do].

This wheel stud thing seems to be confusing everyone (including me). I had no friggin idea that there were so many variables in wheel studs. Like over 100, just in THAT store.

Oh, I still have your shop towel if you want it back...been looking into the AW4 and trying to see what I have to do for the swap. I have Steve at P'dise Transmission helping me out on that, all I can say is thanks again.
 
So, I pulled the fronts today. The studs are virtually the same size even though I had to work a little harder to pull them in on the rear, when I took everything apart on the front end. Drivers side studs slid out nice n' easy after a few taps with a regular hammer. They came out, new ones went in. Piece o' cake.

BUT...when I went to the pass. side, I tapped the studs out, but they wouldn't clear the dust shield to take them off... Wait!! Dust shield? WTF? There is NO dust shield on the drivers side. I swore bitterly!!

In looking at the way the shield on the pass. side, I have to remove the uni-bearing and therefore the axle to a.) get the studs out and b.) put a replacement dust shield on the drivers side. So, is that about it??

Questions are:

1. Is there another way to remove/install dust shield.
2. If I have to pull the uni-bearing/axle do I just replace it while I'm there or run with it til it gives up (it's an 88 w/168K on the clock).
3. Would YOU run without dust shields?

Thanks!
 
1. yes. tin snips and an angle grinder. Just pull the brake rotors first.
2. Run it till it gives up. Check if there is any play in it, if it makes funny grinding noises replace.
3. Yes. I have been for months, through the entire winter. I hate mud retainers, err, I mean dust shields.

The only time I would bother putting a dust shield back on is on a disc brake equipped rear axle with a drum in hat emergency brake, as they are used to retain/align the emergency brake shoes. Plain disc brakes? It's just something to rust out, get in my way, scrape against things, and collect dirt and mud.
 
ParadiseXJ said:
Necessary because I want the 'option' of putting wheel spacers on there. This is my "project" toy Jeep, not a DD. There is enough thread on the stock bolt to slap steelies or regular stock wheels but if I go with anything else (that I like) I can only get about 1/4" of thread, again, might be OK, but not how I want it. The extra 3/8 to 1/2 of threaded bolt works great, plus there's another 1/4" of non-threaded "pilot tip".

No Discount Tire here.
Click to expand...

you dont need longer studs to run 1.25-1.5" wheel spacers, look at a set of the spacers, and you'll see why.

Dobbs said:
I got mine at Orelly,s 20 for 26.00 but they have the lock type on 4 of them.The caps came off a bout 1/2 of mine and to buy one at a time was like 70.00.Also walmart has them in a kit too. I think they are around the same price.
Click to expand...

running wheel locks is an excersize in futility, any good theif can get them off quicker then you can, without the key! ask me how i know. i'd rather have wheels stolen once a year, then deal with those god damn wheel locks, everytime i touch one, i throw it as far as i can.. they just ask to be stripped out at the 'key'....

87manche said:
Regular ground shipping to CA is probably going to be 4 days.
Click to expand...

common ship times are 2 days, from ohio OR sparks nevada. i couldnt ask for more, considering you only pay base shipping
 
xcm said:
you dont need longer studs to run 1.25-1.5" wheel spacers, look at a set of the spacers, and you'll see why.
Click to expand...

Actually I have looked at the spacers. I've installed the spacers. I only get about 4 threads of an open nut on the short stud, about 1/4" before it bottoms out. If I could have done it another way, I would have.

Overall length of the stock stud is 1 5/8". The head is about 1/4" thick. The thickness of the hub is ~3/8", the thickness of the rotor is ~3/8". The thickness of the bottom of the bevel on the spacer is ~3/8".

Which by my calculation, leaves me a whopping 1/4" of bolt to hold a nut. Might be enough for some, but not for me.
 
kastein said:
1. yes. tin snips and an angle grinder. Just pull the brake rotors first.
2. Run it till it gives up. Check if there is any play in it, if it makes funny grinding noises replace.
3. Yes. I have been for months, through the entire winter. I hate mud retainers, err, I mean dust shields.

The only time I would bother putting a dust shield back on is on a disc brake equipped rear axle with a drum in hat emergency brake, as they are used to retain/align the emergency brake shoes. Plain disc brakes? It's just something to rust out, get in my way, scrape against things, and collect dirt and mud.
Click to expand...

evrything he said is good. We changed redheeps shaft out in moab, I forgot to put the shield back on, and we all pretty much agreed that it was just a mud holder.
I've not had the shields on my front D30 for at least 3 years.
 
xcm said:
common ship times are 2 days, from ohio OR sparks nevada. i couldnt ask for more, considering you only pay base shipping
Click to expand...

I did not realize they had a warehouse out west.
They are great with the service, I've ordered things as late as 4PM and it still makes it out that day and I get it in the morning.
 
87manche said:
evrything he said is good. We changed redheeps shaft out in moab, I forgot to put the shield back on, and we all pretty much agreed that it was just a mud holder.
I've not had the shields on my front D30 for at least 3 years.
Click to expand...

Well, that eliminates that problem, I think. So I still the have the too short stud issue, BUT, when I looked at the Timken unit bearing at NAPA today, it has 1.5 inches of stud from the hub, which would make the total length of THAT stud a good 1/2" to 5/8" longer than the stock stud.

Just what I was looking for.
 
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