jeep cherokee front 4 link design

Hello, so Im trying to design a 4 link front suspension for my xj. Im use to the rear 4 link setups off of trophy trucks so I was thinking about doing something like that for the front, but I wouldn't have enough room to clear the oil pan with the upper links. So my question is what if the bottom control arms were angled and used to center the axle, and the upper control arms would go straight back to a frame mount. The coilover and bypass shocks would then be mounted to the upper control arms. hopefully that makes since ha. Has anyone done a similar setup?

Stock setup is a 4 link.

Many folks converting to a 3 link or a long arm radius style setup.

What are you trying to accomplish with your idea?

I would definitely search, and have a look around. Several people have gone the route of mid/long arm 3/4 link, coilovers, etc.
I would definitely recommend checking out Vanimal's build, as far as coilovers and stuff go.

From what I just read I'm a little lost. What's wrong with how they set up th stock 4 link? Or you going really tall? Do you want a stupid amount of flex?
I am running a Rusty's long arm 8.5" lift.
I like their link setup.
I guess we just need more detail as to what your plans are. Good luck.

WB9YZU said:

Stock setup is a 4 link.

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Most people call it a 4 link, but it is not. You could call it a 4+1 link, or a 4 link with pan hard. But calling it a 4 link is factually WRONG, plain and simple.

This is not a "a thumb isn't a finger, it's a thumb!" Terminology debate, 4 links have four links in the suspension, oem jeeps have five....

What the OP is talking about is a triangulated 4 link, I assume, which is very difficult to do on an XJ due to the space limitations caused by the oil pan. This is why nearly all custom front suspensions on XJ's are a 3 link using a panhard bar. Also, a triangulated front four link would have bump steer using the steering gear and drag link. It's not a good idea to triangulate the lower arms in the front because of the forces exerted on the front tires when hitting stuff at speed, you want a lower control arm in the normal location to absorb those forces.

Basically, there's no good reason to build a front triangulated four link on an XJ.

a triangulated 4 link is doable on an xj but you will need some lift I would say 4" at least.
now this is just me judging by what I know under the xj's.
you would lift it then hack off the bottom of your bumpstops and extend them down to were you would need them to be the that the upper four link mounts don't come into contact with the oil pan. again I would think that the bump steer will be terrible and will most likely be hard to steer on trail. but we are all just going off of what we are reading we really don't know what the OP is trying to achieve.

really good info on the triangulated lowers by the way.

Thanks for all of the replies! The stock setup works very well, but its not a true 4 link. I plan to use my jeep for mostly high speed offroading and playing in the sand dunes. So my basic goal is to get as much travel as I safely can. I planned on using a hydraulic steering setup, with the 4 link setup. I don't want to be to tall 4.5"-5.5" lift max. For some reason I cant put a picture on here but if you go to http://www.dirt-tech.com/
and look at Robert Mamer Jeepspeed. That's exactly the setup I want to run. I just came across the pictures! Thanks for everyones help though!

I believe Mamer's Jeep has a relocated steering box so it doesn't get bump steer, plus it's 2wd FWIW.

Yeah I figure Ill run full hydraulic steering, so I wont have any bump steer. I think I can build a similar setup and retain my 4x4. Im pretty sure that his jeep is strapped at 15" of travel in the front. I believe that's what jeepspeed rules say is max. I could be wrong, but I would think I could get at least those same numbers with 4x4. My only limitation would be driveshaft angle at full droop.

So maybe I'm not following you all the way here but you are wanting a LCOG and big flex right?

I would think a good long arm kit or the 4 link you are talking about and some custom mounted 10" lift shocks shout get you the travel and ride you are looking for. While staying around 4" of lift.

Anyone else think thats about right?

Yeah Im looking for LCOG about 4.5"-5.5" lift that has good travel so I can go fast in the desert and dunes, but still have flex for some moderate rock crawling and 4x4. Im pretty sure from everything Ive looked at and measured I can fit a 16" travel fox 2.5 with about 5" of lift. Now that is cutting threw the fenderwell and mounting them as close to the hood as possible. The fox 2.5 coilovers are 26.5" compressed, so I should have enough room after full bump with about 5" or so up travel.

Which actually leads me to another question the fox 2.0 bumpstops come in 3 versions 2.5, 3, 4 inch stroke. What would you guys recommened with 5 inch up travel. I was thinking 3" or would the 2.5" be best, the 4" just seems to long and I would be using the bump stop to much.

If you have the room just get the 4" bumps and limit the travel (which is what they used to do, they may actually make a shorter bump now??). It's just a piece is metal in the bump that limits it.

If you don't want to deal with all that I say 2" bumps. With the right shock tuning 2" is all you should need.

I was finally able to see the pictures in the link posted of the Mamer Jeepspeed. I actually talked to that team at one of thier races...cool dudes. They confirmed what makes sense about that front set up. The lack of bump steer and "travel" steer out weighs the added unsprung weight problem.

Personally I hate unsprung weight, but having your front axle move left and right in teh whoops trying to steer your truck is worse. I'm sad I don't have it in me to go this crazy. Just keep in mind how beefy that lower link is...hell look how beefy the upper links are as well. For this to work you really need strong ass mounts and arms.

So can I ask a non-triangulated 4 link question? I'm about to build long arms. My lowers look like they are going to be about 35" long to line up near the open holes in the Jeep "frame" and end up near where they will make the drive shaft happy. Can anyone who has built long arms confirm I am in the right ballpark as far as length? More importantly my quick calculation puts my upper at 31" to get the caster change I want. Close? The kits I see have longer uppers (almost as long, if not longer than the lowers). However the only two kits I like are BDS and Full Traction.

Any length help would be great. I can do suspension calculations all day but I know it really comes down to what works in real life. Help me learn Jeeps!

wileymotorsports said:

Yeah I figure Ill run full hydraulic steering, so I wont have any bump steer. I think I can build a similar setup and retain my 4x4. Im pretty sure that his jeep is strapped at 15" of travel in the front. I believe that's what jeepspeed rules say is max. I could be wrong, but I would think I could get at least those same numbers with 4x4. My only limitation would be driveshaft angle at full droop.

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just my 2 cents but I have an idea of how to avoid bump steer with a true 4 link setup in the front. mount the steering box on the axle and run a slip spline shaft to it from the steering wheel. granted it is not as clean as hydraulic and would take some fab and ingenuity but the idea works.
p.s. yes, you would need to make sure there is a clearance for the slip shaft to move in. I think it would be a good project for someone to try.
I do not have the skills or I would try it myself.

projecTruck said:

just my 2 cents but I have an idea of how to avoid bump steer with a true 4 link setup in the front. mount the steering box on the axle and run a slip spline shaft to it from the steering wheel. granted it is not as clean as hydraulic and would take some fab and ingenuity but the idea works.
p.s. yes, you would need to make sure there is a clearance for the slip shaft to move in. I think it would be a good project for someone to try.
I do not have the skills or I would try it myself.

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That is a horrible idea on so many levels, no offense.

That's like, a page right out of the hack-fabricator inbred hillbilly mud truck building handbook.

No offense intended if that doesn't describe you... if it does, I can't really help except to say it's a horrible idea.

Sounds like a great idea!

A steering gearbox is stronger than any hydraulic ram, remember?

projecTruck said:

just my 2 cents but I have an idea of how to avoid bump steer with a true 4 link setup in the front. mount the steering box on the axle and run a slip spline shaft to it from the steering wheel. granted it is not as clean as hydraulic and would take some fab and ingenuity but the idea works.
p.s. yes, you would need to make sure there is a clearance for the slip shaft to move in. I think it would be a good project for someone to try.
I do not have the skills or I would try it myself.

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No