Coolant bottle bottom hose Renix, 87-90

I am about to replace the OEM heater hose and coolant bottle hose assembly on my 87 Renix XJ. The heater hoses are 5/8" ID, and I have a salvaged and cleaned up OEM steel 'T' shaped tube assembly with the all the old crimped on heater hose fittings and hose removed and plenty of 5/8' ID hose for the repair, but the bottom of the Poly bottle is 7/8" OD, or seems to need 7/8" ID hose. The OEM hose assy had a double 90 degree curved 5/8" ID to 7/8" ID hose on the assembly.

Has anyone ever found just a 5/8" ID by 7/8" ID double 90 degree curved hose that will fit this application. If so where did you get it and do you still have the part number, and if so what is it? If not what did you use to complete the 5/8" to 7/8 curved transition.

I am keeping the closed system and OEM poly bottle so please don't offer open system suggestions or metal bottle...etc conversion suggestions in this thread. I just got a headache seach nearly 100 of them for my answer!:read:

I am sure there is one out there that will work, just hoping some one else did it already and saved the part number....details.

You pay shipping and you can have all the closed system crap I just took off my 87.

I know you don't want to hear it, but the open system is way better and she runs cooler. Seems to warm up faster too.

You can buy the tees and adapter ends at Napa .

Ecomike said:

I am about to replace the OEM heater hose and coolant bottle hose assembly on my 87 Renix XJ. The heater hoses are 5/8" ID, and I have a salvaged and cleaned up OEM steel 'T' shaped tube assembly with the all the old crimped on heater hose fittings and hose removed and plenty of 5/8' ID hose for the repair, but the bottom of the Poly bottle is 7/8" OD, or seems to need 7/8" ID hose. The OEM hose assy had a double 90 degree curved 5/8" ID to 7/8" ID hose on the assembly.

Has anyone ever found just a 5/8" ID by 7/8" ID double 90 degree curved hose that will fit this application. If so where did you get it and do you still have the part number, and if so what is it? If not what did you use to complete the 5/8" to 7/8 curved transition.

I am keeping the closed system and OEM poly bottle so please don't offer open system suggestions or metal bottle...etc conversion suggestions in this thread. I just got a headache seach nearly 100 of them for my answer!:read:

I am sure there is one out there that will work, just hoping some one else did it already and saved the part number....details.

Click to expand...

I went to schucks, and just looked at all there hoses that had a 90 degree (or close) curve in it, that also had the larger opening for the bottom of the bottle. I found one that was "close" and its been doing a great job. The only problem i had, was the end that goes to the metal tube had to be double clamped...but it doesnt leak. I wish i would have saved the part number... but im sure if you go to any parts place and ask to look at thier speciality hoses you should find what you need.

I replaced that same hose yesterday and I used 3/4" heater hose and it works just fine! Theres only 1/8" difference between 3/4 and 7/8 and the heater hose will stretch over just fine. It will be tough getting it started, but after you do twist it on instead of forcing straight on. I flipped the bottle upside down and installed the hose on my workbench.

Ecomike said:

I am about to replace the OEM heater hose and coolant bottle hose assembly on my 87 Renix XJ. The heater hoses are 5/8" ID, and I have a salvaged and cleaned up OEM steel 'T' shaped tube assembly with the all the old crimped on heater hose fittings and hose removed and plenty of 5/8' ID hose for the repair, but the bottom of the Poly bottle is 7/8" OD, or seems to need 7/8" ID hose. The OEM hose assy had a double 90 degree curved 5/8" ID to 7/8" ID hose on the assembly.

Has anyone ever found just a 5/8" ID by 7/8" ID double 90 degree curved hose that will fit this application. If so where did you get it and do you still have the part number, and if so what is it? If not what did you use to complete the 5/8" to 7/8 curved transition.

I am keeping the closed system and OEM poly bottle so please don't offer open system suggestions or metal bottle...etc conversion suggestions in this thread. I just got a headache seach nearly 100 of them for my answer!:read:

I am sure there is one out there that will work, just hoping some one else did it already and saved the part number....details.

Click to expand...

Teamcherokee has the OEM replacement hoses as a set.

http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/parts/Detailed/1763.html

Your dealer (I know you don't want to hear that!) may also have that hose - but I don't recall the part number. I had to get one a few years ago - and it still had an AMC logo on it, so it would be NOS.

Meanwhile, I'm looking into a way to get quit of that hose - haven't gotten there yet (I'll let you know when I do.)

For the "open system runs cooler" crowd - not necessarily so. I had a 1989 that was converted when I bought it, and my 1989 Limited and 1988 Laredo ran cooler (both still on the closed system.) Both systems were maintained the same (rather well) and both used the same coolant brand and mix (Prestone, 50/50 with R/O water.)

Looking at the gages wasn't conclusive - gage error is always a possibility - but my IR thermometer told me that the converted 89 was running right about 212* at the thermostat housing, while the 89 Limited was running 205*, and my 1988 was running 194* (I'd done some small work on the system for the Laredo, granted, but I'd done the same work on the 1989 converted.)

I've said it before and I'll say it again - if the "closed" system is so bad, why are more OEMs using it in passenger cars? The only flaw with the RENIX system I can see was in the plastic volume tank - go with a higher grade of plastic and a better mould (like Volvo) or just go with an aluminum or CRES tank, and you're done.

5-90 said:

Your dealer (I know you don't want to hear that!) may also have that hose - but I don't recall the part number.

Click to expand...

Part # 52003876

5-90, as you proved, not every vehicle will run the same temp on a closed or open system, even with the same thermostat. The closed system that was previously on my 87 ran at 220 with a tendency to boil over. Now it runs right at 195.

My Ford Superduty Diesel is a closed system. They have their place when properly designed and taken care of. The Jeep system was compromised due to fit in the engine compartment and mine was not taken care of before I got it. Converting it for me was the easier answer than trying to get the closed system working.

stangrcr1 said:

You pay shipping and you can have all the closed system crap I just took off my 87.

I know you don't want to hear it, but the open system is way better and she runs cooler. Seems to warm up faster too.

Click to expand...

When I got my first 87 Renix XJ it had lots of problems including overheating. I replaced the entire cooling system, a few parts a time, but quickly decided the radiator had to go. I still have the old one, never tossed it, but it had about half the tubes clogged in it as I could feel, with my hand cold spots as the engine boiled over. Anyway, the only coolant system related items I did not replace 3 years ago was the water pump and the heater hose assy. I am doing the heater hose assy now, only because it started to leak on the ground over night during a cold snap, and further inspection showed the hose ends were all on their last legs.

But back to this closed system issue, I live in 100 F summer weather here in Houston, and I have a 165 F thermostat in mine that is a remnant from my first attempts to keep it from overheating. It helped a lot, but could not fix a plugged radiator. Now my problem is getting it warmed up enough on those rare days when it hits 32 F or there abouts. In the summer on a 95 F day, with the AC on it never gets over 200F, and can sit at idle in gear, with the AC on for hours with out ever getting over 205 F. In the winter at 32 F it never gets over 165 F.

But when its all said and done, "if it ain't broke don't fix it", and if it's broke, fix it anyway you can!

Yup, I fixed it in a way I knew would work, and it did for me. Even when it is in the low 30s here, I have good heat within a block of the house leaving for work. The summers rarely get above 80s here so heat is more important.

You have A/C? I have it, but it doesn't work, zero refrigerant, so it will get converted to an air pump.

I have that hose if ya want it, but you should be able to get one somewhere cheaper than me shipping it down there.

Wow, lots of answers already, Thanks everyone!

I went to Autozone and toured their hose rack and found 2 likely suspects, and it seems the odd hose with twists and turns and different IDs on each end is not that rare now days.

I found one that I bought, and plan to try that has about 10" of 7/8" ID hose on one end and about 10" of 5/8" ID hose on the other end with the right 90(s) in the right places in the middle of it. I may post a picture of it if I can find the time. I plan to cut off the excess 6 to 7 inches on each end and I should end up with a near perfect hose match and fit. The ends are the exact IDs I needed to get a good quality fit.

The part numbers were Autozone numbers, I think, no Gates or Goodyear labeled numbers on it, but here are the numbers, not sure which one is needed but these two showed up on the Autozone invoice:

#004296 and L-4323 Molded Heater hose 9.99

Oh, and for the record, I have never purchased dealer heater hoses or coolant in my 34 years of DIY repairs. Not about to start now!:nono: That is, unless I have absolutely no choice, but I doubt that will ever happen....cold day in Hill, ya know!

RªMB° said:

I replaced that same hose yesterday and I used 3/4" heater hose and it works just fine! Theres only 1/8" difference between 3/4 and 7/8 and the heater hose will stretch over just fine. It will be tough getting it started, but after you do twist it on instead of forcing straight on. I flipped the bottle upside down and installed the hose on my workbench.

Click to expand...

this is what I did, a bit of dish soap on the coolant bottle barb and it slid on with a little difficulty.
It's been fine for a year/10K miles.